High 11's
05-12-2009, 06:19 PM
#1
High 11's At some point I want to build up my M6 ws6 to run consistant high 11's. How does this order look. I figure I will do the research now to save trouble later. I would like to get it done with just bolt ons, but something tells me I may need a bigger cam. I am new to LS1's so bare with me.
4.10 gears
Magnaflow cat back--Already have***
Long tubes
SLP air lid
Bellows?? Prob a waste?
K&N's--***
FAST 92mm Intake Ported?
1.85 rockers
85mm MAF
Tune
Drag Radials
4.10 gears
Magnaflow cat back--Already have***
Long tubes
SLP air lid
Bellows?? Prob a waste?
K&N's--***
FAST 92mm Intake Ported?
1.85 rockers
85mm MAF
Tune
Drag Radials
05-14-2009, 02:41 PM
#2
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spend money first on a cam and heads before the intake track and the $400 rockers. I have a small cam and cheap heads and have an easy 11.5 in my car with some good tires.I have a ls6 intake and stock rockers. The rockers and intake will run you $1600 and with your setup will give you little.
05-14-2009, 09:53 PM
#3
spend money first on a cam and heads before the intake track and the $400 rockers. I have a small cam and cheap heads and have an easy 11.5 in my car with some good tires.I have a ls6 intake and stock rockers. The rockers and intake will run you $1600 and with your setup will give you little.
05-15-2009, 10:07 AM
#4
Headers are headers. I highly doubt that your cars sound will greatly vary between different brands of long tube headers. However, there are differences in quality and overall fitment. Pick a header that stainless steel, thats what I would do.
05-15-2009, 10:35 AM
#5
First off, it's completely possible to run 11s with bolt ons. You would just have to drive the **** out of it, and good weather wouldn't hurt either.
For an easier approach, a cam would be your best bet.
Here's my analysis of your list:
4.10 gears <---wouldn't do much for performance, just make it harder to hook. And you're better off saving money for a new rear that wasting money on a shitty one.
Magnaflow cat back--Already have*** <---What do you already have? A catback will offer some gains. GEt what you want as far as sound goes, or just get a cutout for best performance and price.
Long tubes <---Good mod for power, there are plenty of opinions on here about the different brands but each will offer about the same gains. Get which ever you prefer.
SLP air lid <--- Lid is also a must have, again all about the same. Get whichever.
Bellows?? Prob a waste? <---definitely a waste for performance, they improve the looks but that's it.
K&N's--*** <--- I think they have been proven to not really show any gains, the re usability is the seller for me. If you got the cash for it, get it. Otherwise just wait.
FAST 92mm Intake Ported? <--- A good mod with a heads and cam setup, still only worth probably a few tenths, save this for last.
1.85 rockers <--- DO NOT GET THESE, they're not worth it at all. The stock rocker is stronger and lighter, and with a cam you don't need the 1.85s because you can have the cam ground any way you want. If you do a cam possibly look into the stock rocker bearing upgrade.
85mm MAF <--- not worth it. The stock isn't going to hold you back any til you make big power. A cam only setup would probably never know the difference.
Tune <--- Tunes are hit or miss, depending on where you get them. Here I always recommend buying the software and a good wideband and learning it yourself. Even if it takes a while to figure it all out. You'll be better off in the end, and you can even tune your friends cars for money if need be. If that doesn't jive with you, then do your research about the tuners in your area, if you have to drive 100 miles for a good tuner, do it.
Drag Radials <--- Some people go fast without DRs, but it seems more like a waste of time to me. They could be going so much faster with them.
For an easier approach, a cam would be your best bet.
Here's my analysis of your list:
4.10 gears <---wouldn't do much for performance, just make it harder to hook. And you're better off saving money for a new rear that wasting money on a shitty one.
Magnaflow cat back--Already have*** <---What do you already have? A catback will offer some gains. GEt what you want as far as sound goes, or just get a cutout for best performance and price.
Long tubes <---Good mod for power, there are plenty of opinions on here about the different brands but each will offer about the same gains. Get which ever you prefer.
SLP air lid <--- Lid is also a must have, again all about the same. Get whichever.
Bellows?? Prob a waste? <---definitely a waste for performance, they improve the looks but that's it.
K&N's--*** <--- I think they have been proven to not really show any gains, the re usability is the seller for me. If you got the cash for it, get it. Otherwise just wait.
FAST 92mm Intake Ported? <--- A good mod with a heads and cam setup, still only worth probably a few tenths, save this for last.
1.85 rockers <--- DO NOT GET THESE, they're not worth it at all. The stock rocker is stronger and lighter, and with a cam you don't need the 1.85s because you can have the cam ground any way you want. If you do a cam possibly look into the stock rocker bearing upgrade.
85mm MAF <--- not worth it. The stock isn't going to hold you back any til you make big power. A cam only setup would probably never know the difference.
Tune <--- Tunes are hit or miss, depending on where you get them. Here I always recommend buying the software and a good wideband and learning it yourself. Even if it takes a while to figure it all out. You'll be better off in the end, and you can even tune your friends cars for money if need be. If that doesn't jive with you, then do your research about the tuners in your area, if you have to drive 100 miles for a good tuner, do it.
Drag Radials <--- Some people go fast without DRs, but it seems more like a waste of time to me. They could be going so much faster with them.
05-15-2009, 10:43 AM
#6
First off, it's completely possible to run 11s with bolt ons. You would just have to drive the **** out of it, and good weather wouldn't hurt either.
For an easier approach, a cam would be your best bet.
Here's my analysis of your list:
4.10 gears <---wouldn't do much for performance, just make it harder to hook. And you're better off saving money for a new rear that wasting money on a shitty one.
Magnaflow cat back--Already have*** <---What do you already have? A catback will offer some gains. GEt what you want as far as sound goes, or just get a cutout for best performance and price.
Long tubes <---Good mod for power, there are plenty of opinions on here about the different brands but each will offer about the same gains. Get which ever you prefer.
SLP air lid <--- Lid is also a must have, again all about the same. Get whichever.
Bellows?? Prob a waste? <---definitely a waste for performance, they improve the looks but that's it.
K&N's--*** <--- I think they have been proven to not really show any gains, the re usability is the seller for me. If you got the cash for it, get it. Otherwise just wait.
FAST 92mm Intake Ported? <--- A good mod with a heads and cam setup, still only worth probably a few tenths, save this for last.
1.85 rockers <--- DO NOT GET THESE, they're not worth it at all. The stock rocker is stronger and lighter, and with a cam you don't need the 1.85s because you can have the cam ground any way you want. If you do a cam possibly look into the stock rocker bearing upgrade.
85mm MAF <--- not worth it. The stock isn't going to hold you back any til you make big power. A cam only setup would probably never know the difference.
Tune <--- Tunes are hit or miss, depending on where you get them. Here I always recommend buying the software and a good wideband and learning it yourself. Even if it takes a while to figure it all out. You'll be better off in the end, and you can even tune your friends cars for money if need be. If that doesn't jive with you, then do your research about the tuners in your area, if you have to drive 100 miles for a good tuner, do it.
Drag Radials <--- Some people go fast without DRs, but it seems more like a waste of time to me. They could be going so much faster with them.
For an easier approach, a cam would be your best bet.
Here's my analysis of your list:
4.10 gears <---wouldn't do much for performance, just make it harder to hook. And you're better off saving money for a new rear that wasting money on a shitty one.
Magnaflow cat back--Already have*** <---What do you already have? A catback will offer some gains. GEt what you want as far as sound goes, or just get a cutout for best performance and price.
Long tubes <---Good mod for power, there are plenty of opinions on here about the different brands but each will offer about the same gains. Get which ever you prefer.
SLP air lid <--- Lid is also a must have, again all about the same. Get whichever.
Bellows?? Prob a waste? <---definitely a waste for performance, they improve the looks but that's it.
K&N's--*** <--- I think they have been proven to not really show any gains, the re usability is the seller for me. If you got the cash for it, get it. Otherwise just wait.
FAST 92mm Intake Ported? <--- A good mod with a heads and cam setup, still only worth probably a few tenths, save this for last.
1.85 rockers <--- DO NOT GET THESE, they're not worth it at all. The stock rocker is stronger and lighter, and with a cam you don't need the 1.85s because you can have the cam ground any way you want. If you do a cam possibly look into the stock rocker bearing upgrade.
85mm MAF <--- not worth it. The stock isn't going to hold you back any til you make big power. A cam only setup would probably never know the difference.
Tune <--- Tunes are hit or miss, depending on where you get them. Here I always recommend buying the software and a good wideband and learning it yourself. Even if it takes a while to figure it all out. You'll be better off in the end, and you can even tune your friends cars for money if need be. If that doesn't jive with you, then do your research about the tuners in your area, if you have to drive 100 miles for a good tuner, do it.
Drag Radials <--- Some people go fast without DRs, but it seems more like a waste of time to me. They could be going so much faster with them.
05-15-2009, 11:08 AM
#7
Whoa. Thanks for the great response. Yes I already have the magnaflow and k&ns. Judging by your response I should go lid, long tubes, then a cam. I really thought the lower gearing would make a big difference? Are the factory 3.42's really that good for the power band? Thanks again.
Also like I said the 10 bolt on a M6 car isn't likely to last if you're hooking a lot of power. Why waste the money on the 4.10s only to have upgrade later.
If and when you tear your rear up, then go with a more optimal gear ratio.
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05-20-2009, 12:57 PM
#8
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I would also throw in as bolt-ons...
UD Pulley-$250
LS6 Intake-$300
Port and Polish your stock Throttle Body-$75
New Lower Control Arms for better Traction-$75
UD Pulley-$250
LS6 Intake-$300
Port and Polish your stock Throttle Body-$75
New Lower Control Arms for better Traction-$75
05-21-2009, 03:19 PM
#11
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its a all motor set up
-ls1 aluminum block
-ls1crank, 3.622 stroke
-scat ls1 h beam connecting rods, .927 wrist pins, set of 8, with upgraded apr 2000 bolts
-diamond racing ls1 forged flat top with 2cc valve releifs, 3.905 bore, 3.622 stroke, 6.122 rod length, .927 x 2.50 wrist pins included
-mahle racing 3.905 pro select piston rings 1.5/1.5/3.0mm file fit
-camshaft bearing set for ls2 and 2nd gen ls1 block
-clevite connecting rod bearings, ls1, per bearing,for stock crank applications
-clevite main bearing set for ls1 applications, stock
-gm bolt for ls1/ls2 side main cap and ls2 rear cover
-gm ls1 oil restrictor
-gm ls1 oil galley core plug
-gm ls1 large cooland plug
-gm engine block small coolant plug, lsx based engines
-precision race comp stg 2.5 5.3 heads
-v3 cam 231/234 .643/.598 111.
-ls7 lifter kit
-in motion ls1 double roller timing set with torrington bearing
-ls1/ls2 cam retainer plate
-arp lsx cam retainer bolt kit
-arp ls1/ls2/ls6 cam bolt kit
-ls1 lifter tray bolt
-ls1 lifter trays
-ls1 cylinder head gasket, pair
-ls1/ls6 cylinder head bolt kit, per cyl head
-ls1/ls2 timing cover gasket
-ls1/ls2 rear main seal housing gasket
-valley cover gasket
-ls1/ls6 oil pump and o ring
-ls1/ls6 balancer pully bolt
-ls1 exhasut manifold gasket
-ls1 oil pan gasket
-ls1 water pump gasket per side
-lsx rear main seal
-ls1 front cam seal
-stg 4 clutch and flywheel
-fast ls6 intake
-pace setter headers
-slp lid
-full slp loudmouth exhaust
-39lbs injectors
and a few other things are done to the car as well as far as subframe connectors etc etc
-ls1 aluminum block
-ls1crank, 3.622 stroke
-scat ls1 h beam connecting rods, .927 wrist pins, set of 8, with upgraded apr 2000 bolts
-diamond racing ls1 forged flat top with 2cc valve releifs, 3.905 bore, 3.622 stroke, 6.122 rod length, .927 x 2.50 wrist pins included
-mahle racing 3.905 pro select piston rings 1.5/1.5/3.0mm file fit
-camshaft bearing set for ls2 and 2nd gen ls1 block
-clevite connecting rod bearings, ls1, per bearing,for stock crank applications
-clevite main bearing set for ls1 applications, stock
-gm bolt for ls1/ls2 side main cap and ls2 rear cover
-gm ls1 oil restrictor
-gm ls1 oil galley core plug
-gm ls1 large cooland plug
-gm engine block small coolant plug, lsx based engines
-precision race comp stg 2.5 5.3 heads
-v3 cam 231/234 .643/.598 111.
-ls7 lifter kit
-in motion ls1 double roller timing set with torrington bearing
-ls1/ls2 cam retainer plate
-arp lsx cam retainer bolt kit
-arp ls1/ls2/ls6 cam bolt kit
-ls1 lifter tray bolt
-ls1 lifter trays
-ls1 cylinder head gasket, pair
-ls1/ls6 cylinder head bolt kit, per cyl head
-ls1/ls2 timing cover gasket
-ls1/ls2 rear main seal housing gasket
-valley cover gasket
-ls1/ls6 oil pump and o ring
-ls1/ls6 balancer pully bolt
-ls1 exhasut manifold gasket
-ls1 oil pan gasket
-ls1 water pump gasket per side
-lsx rear main seal
-ls1 front cam seal
-stg 4 clutch and flywheel
-fast ls6 intake
-pace setter headers
-slp lid
-full slp loudmouth exhaust
-39lbs injectors
and a few other things are done to the car as well as far as subframe connectors etc etc
Last edited by jdcws6; 05-21-2009 at 04:16 PM.