fire-chickens

Well within the next few months ill be in the market for a '94-'97 year model pontiac firebird with the LT1, and i was just wondering what are some common known problems that i should look out for with these cars? Also i've been looking at Formulas and trans am's and im more partial to the trans am's i like the front nose better and the apperance package. What are the main differences between the formula and firebird mechainically, if any?

what do either the formula and the trans am come with for gear ratios, and option wise. I've been reading a little and so far i've leaned that some came with 2.73's and an automatic that starts out in 2nd and doesnt have a 1st on the gear selector, i don't particularly like the crappy gearing, and want to buy a car with at least 3.23's and posi. What years include what options and whatnot? are the trans's different in the '93-'97. How rare are the 6 speeds?

i'm not really used to using this site just yet so i havent found too much info.

and sorry for any confusion from my post lol. I want to be able to know what to look at when i look at any firebird.
thanks a lot.

hawk584

iTrader: (1)

LT1s are known to have a notorious intake manifold oil leak. a formula is pretty much the same as the t/a with out the front&rear bumper covers. i've been told the formula is lighter then the t/a..? i dont know to much about traction control, my '95 firehawk doesn't have it. i believe all auto's came with 3.23 gears and manuals came with 3.42's. as far as which is better, i would say slamming gears is probably more fun. t/a center console i believe also comes with an extra cup holder. i not to familiar with the ws6's other then they are rare and the Firehawk's are more and only available in the formula body style (92-'97).. opti sparks can be an issue, inside door panels and dash board creaking?... some might have paint bubbles in the paint, other members might be able to chime in on other known LT1 issues

1995blacktattop

iTrader: (2)

firebird = 3.4 V6 (93-mid 95) 3800 V6 (late 95-02)

Formula 93-97 = LT1

T/A 93-97 = LT1

the only difference between a formula and a T/A is the body kit. The T/A generally will have more options like leather and t-tops but you could get all of those things on a Formula.

Mechanically the cars are all the same year for year. some major year to year changes include

94 added a MAF sensor (93 was Speed Density)

95 added the vented optispark and the steering wheel changed on the interior.

96 added OBD 2 and a second catalytic converter bumping HP to 285.

96 also added the optional WS6 ram air performance package which included a composite hood, special ram air box, 17" wheels w/ 275/40/17 tires, and different exhaust tips as well as stiffer springs and bushings (not really sure on this part though, there may have been more to it than that)

97 they changed the dashboard slightly as well as the console.

A4's in 94-95 have a special Transmission Perform button which changes the shift points and firmness of the shifts.

If i were you i'd look for a 95+ car because of the vented opti. personally i like the 95's best since they also still run the OBD1 system and don't have near the emissions stuff that 96-97 cars do. I myself wanted a 96-97 WS6 but the cost was too much to justify since i found my 95 with 84k miles from the original owner for only $6k when the WS6 cars with the same or more mileage at used car lots with unknown history were fetching $10-$12k. this was in 2004 BTW. I added the ram air to mine in 2008.


As for what the poster above said abut gearing, the base auto T/A and Formula had 2:73 gears, the optional performance package added 3:23 gears (and Z rated tires but ive seen some 2:73 cars without the Z tires so those options are proabably sperated)

easy way to tell what your car has

If its got a 110mph speedo and no first gear selector, its got 2:73 and no Z rated tires
If its got a 155mph speedo and no first gear selection, its got 2:73 gears and Z rated tires
if its got a 110mph speedo and a first gear selection its got 2:73 and Z rated
and finally if its got a 155mph speedo and a first gear selection, its got both 3:23 and Z rated tires (thats how mine is)

the WS6 cars had 3:23 gears as a mandatory option. The 275/40/17 wheels/tires were Z rated automatically.

the 110mph speedometer cars without Z rated tires were governed to 118mph (i think it was 118) while the cars with z rated tires will do over 150mph. i don't believe they are goverened but they are horesepower and drag limited and they do have a rev limiter, just not a speed limiter.
the axle code for 2:73's was GU2 and for 3:23's it was GU5.

All of the 6 speed cars had 3:42s, i don't know about the tire speed rating on M6 cars. i would assume all of them had Z rated tires/155mph speedo but i don't know for sure.


As for the door panels and dash, the top dashpad can crack. the door panels i don't think are as prone to cracking as the LS1 cars because i believe a vender change for the LS1 years contributed to this. The paint bubbling issue on the sail panel is strictly limited to the later LS1 year cars because GM changed suppliers for the glue in late 98 or early 99. no LT1 car should have the sail panel issue. I did have some white dots appear on my sail panel but this was just the clear coat starting to fail because the car was a florida car. a simple repaint of the sail panel solved that.

LS69TA

iTrader: (30)

The opti-spark is one of the main problems I've seen with them. Good thing is you can pick up LT1 cars for cheap. For the higher priced ones you can instead pick up a LS1 car for the same money.

great421

iTrader: (1)

Welcome "Fire-Chickens" to the fold!

Speaking for the community, I hope you enjoy your future bird as much as we all enjoy our birds.

The biggest "issue" with any of the V8 f-bodies is the rear end; specifically the ring and pinion gears failing on an overzellous 1-2 shift with a good clutch. There are a number of opinions on what, if anything, can be done to resolve this issue; 12 bolt, 9-inch, Dana 60, modded 10 bolt, etc...

Check out the threads and make your own decision. Speaking from experience, if you choose an M6 car, you will need to reseach this topic sooner than you think! (Ask me how I know! )

Have fun!

fire-chickens

thanks for all the input, i greatly appreciate it! I'm so excited i cannot wait until this spring rolls around.

NC01TA

I owned a '96 Formula for 9 years having bought it new in July '96 down in FL. Just loved the car and would still own it today if not for my '01 T/A convertible. I had very few issues with it and I remember one factory recall. Both headlights had problems, which is expected, so be prepared for that if no work was ever performed. Very reliable and a pleasure to own. The key to your purchase is maintenance and prior ownership. The person that bought my car had a one owner documented history since day one. The car was never abused but it was 'exercised' regularly on the interstate as it should be. You will get what you pay for in most instances. An abused car with no maintenance history will run cheap. A documented car with all fluid changes and just one or two 'caring, non-abusive' owners will fetch top dollar, which still won't be much in these economic times. I would not hesitate to pay top $$ for a car that needs nothing or very little in repairs. If you pay "cash for clunkers' money expect some heavy repair bills unless you are adept at doing them yourself. Good luck when the time comes. Don't be afraid to travel to get your car. It is well worth it in the long run. Right now through the holidays and winter are the best times to purchase a car if your finances permit it.

LS69TA

iTrader: (30)

Yea the stock 10-bolt is a time bomb waiting to go off unless you're not throwing alot of power and sticky tires to it. Although a buddy of mine is running 10.9x on the stock 10-bolt with stronger axles and a few other things. But it's still only going to live through so many hard launches. A Moser 12-bolt or Ford 9" would be good investments, especially on a M6 car.