usnfenix

iTrader: (11)

truck starter uses 2 long bolts vs the oem using 1 long and 1 short. If the engine has any trouble starting or any restriction for whatever reason during cranking the oem starter has been known to rip its mounting tabs and damage the block. Theres multiple threads on here about it. It basically comes down to all the stress of the starter's torque being applied to the shorter bolt which creates an imbalance in the shared load between the bolts creating a weaker side. Its not something that is a must do mod, but for those replacing their starter or wanting peace of mind its not a bad investment considering new compatible truck starter is 100 bucks most places.

blackbyrd

iTrader: (14)

matter if its an ironblock?

usnfenix

iTrader: (11)

not sure, but I know the stock blocks are prone to it. its not like it was a ticking timebomb however, while some cars randomly did it it was more so a problem that occurred if your car ever had any sudden resistance during cranking

blackbyrd

iTrader: (14)

I could see it being an issue with the aluminum blocks, it caught my attention though cause my setup has a hard time getting going at times. Didnt ever thing about the bolts being the issue though

JohnR

iTrader: (1)

Can you provide a P/N, or vehicle application, so I can get the right one?
Thanks,
John

bleepster

iTrader: (2)

been wanting to do this as well. what year Grand Am did you use?

usnfenix

iTrader: (11)

Search the forums and you'll find many threads with pictures of the aftermath and links to the starters people have suggested. It basically comes down to GM Silverado 1500 starters and if you find em on ebay most ads will show that this is the 2 long bolt style for correcting the short bolt. I haven't ordered mine yet, going to get it form autozone prob but just search the forums for "starter broke block" or "truck starter"

Be sure to get the 6.0L version if doing this, it has 11 teeth, the 5.3 version will bolt up but has 9 teeth. The 5.7 LS1 engine uses a stock 11 tooth starter. And do your homework lol, its your car after-all.

usnfenix

iTrader: (11)

heres some good ones

https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...ock-broke.html

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...6-0-truck.html

https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...ken-block.html



and heres the ebay link to one, notice the two long mounting bolts, look up a stock LS starter for a Camaro or trans am and youll see the difference

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Starter-LS1-...item51f2336258

MaSTi

PLAN ONLY:

When she gets pulled out (insert joke here), a new clutch, head light motors, wheels, and hopefully HID upgrade this year!! If I make some more cash, new wheels and rubber.......my goal, but not done yet.

vroom_vroom

iTrader: (5)

re plumbing my fuel system so i can get my shaker down lower and resolve a lack of fuel issue. i have officially had it with my pertronix ignition. ready to switch to a msd programmable set up.

bleepster

iTrader: (2)

did a wood working project in the garage Sunday. Pulled the cover off the bird, look at it, then covered it back up. One day this $hit weather here in Michigan will clear up and I will actually get her out.

Boxxx

Replaced the broken headlamp support cable on the driver side, no more headlight wobble. Didn't really wobble that bad without it, but it was enough to bother my OCD self. Tried looking for a premade replacement to no avail so ended up making my own with some braided 1/16" steel cable and some crimps. The factory one was riveted into the core support so I ran mine to an easy enough to access bolt in the core support to use as an anchoring point. Best of all it was like under $2 in materials, so woo.

OnA Fan

iTrader: (6)

I started working on my LS1 brake upgrade. After taking off the wheels and inspectng the original bushings, etc., this is where I am at now:



Up next:

Z4Ccoupe

OnA Fan, that looks a little more elaborate than just a brake upgrade.

OnA Fan

iTrader: (6)

Yes, plans changed rapidly once I saw how bad the original components were. I already had the tubular A-arms in storage. This seemed like the right time to do it right. Picking up some BMR lowering springs and Koni shock sometime this week.

Z4Ccoupe

Did a drive test with a friends very eloborate OBD II analyzer. I've had a consistant and re-ocurring "Service Engine" light with various codes. 2 interesting issues became apparent. My coolant temp gauge has issues. It stayed virtually locked on 209 - 210 indicated under all conditions. But the temp according to the analyzer ranged from 190 at a constant 70 mph to 228 while stuck in stop and go traffic. In regards to the SES light, the analyzer gave a "hint" to check the altenator. And, interestingly enough, I have recently noticed the alt. does not seem to respond like it should. So I feel that I might finally be on the right track with my SES.

Boxxx

'99-02 the coolant gauge is a dummy gauge and isn't an accurate portrayal of what's actually going on. For whatever reason I guess GM thought it was a good idea to get rid of an actual functioning gauge, though I suspect it's for the same reason Mazda replaced the Miata's functioning oil pressure gauge for a dummy one: People brought their cars in wondering why the gauge was moving around all the time and what could be done to fix it... Also in the case of the F-body sitting still on a hot day it's easy to knock onto 240º so of course that'd have people freaking out and bringing the car in thinking something was wrong as well I'm oh so sure, so GM put in a dummy gauge so everything is A-ok 210º no matter what...

Z4Ccoupe

Boxxx, thanks for the info on the temp gauge. I took the car into an alternator repair place today and the alternator was bad even though it was still charging. It didn't want to charge when the A/C was on. Have a new one now.

Boxxx

No problem, it was something I stumbled upon when I was shopping for a F-body so I thought would give a heads up to save you a wild goose chase.

JohnR

iTrader: (1)

So how do we get the gauge to read accurately?
Thanks,
John