firebirdlover

Hi there,

Just bought a 99 WS6 75k miles, and I have a question about the clutch disengagement. I notice that the clutch pedal sticks in the half position when it is disengaged. The dealer bled the clutch/brake fluid but saw really no change. I dont see any fluid under the car or the master cylinder leaking. Is there a return spring underneath perhaps?

Also it seems to be that the clutch pedal engages the car really low to the floor. Is that normal? I mean as soon as I let go of the cluch pedal, it is engaging already, like there is no play at all. Is that good? I owned several manual vehicles before but they had more way more play at the pedal. Does the "drill mod" solve these issues?

Also, the shifting is pretty hard to "slip" into gear at times at any rpm. Doesnt feel like a smooth transision between gears at times. I never get grinding on any gear and no slipping on clutch when flooring it though. It is rather tedious to get into reverse however.

One more thing, it seems like when I was backing up the other day and starting off from a start if I dont ease the clutch out slowy and at low rpm, i hear a "clunking" sound underneath only until the car is fully engaged. Never happens other than when starting from a stop. Does the drill mod work to solve all of these problems? I read some things on the Tick adjustable slave cylinder, but really dont have the extra $$ for it.


LAST BUT NOT LEAST...on a different note, it has a adjustable Borla exhaust. Do you know where the plates go in at to make the exhaust sound different and what baffle do you recommend for best sound/performance combo.

Thanks in advance. I love the car, just want to get these things figured out asap!

DYING BREED

iTrader: (5)

well bleeding alone prob wont help.. im having the same issue.. prob the master cylinder going bad.. mine sticks on the floor.. if the car isnt really modded and you dont plan on doing so for a long time, a stock replacement will work.
My clutch engages quick too, i dont think of it as bad, now an adjustable such as the tick will make that point a bit moveable..
the drill mod in an inexpensive, labor intensive job. the tick will come with new, larger, heat shielded line to prevent the clutch fluid(ie. dot 3 brake fluid-same) from breaking down. if you have headers, the chance of boiling the fliud on hard driving increases, in turn destroying the fluid making it hard to shift and engage gears..
now for the exhaust- i have no idea.. use the search it might help

wooddaniel

iTrader: (28)

Mine used to do this too. Get the Tickperformance adjustable master cylinder and don't look back. I have Zero issues now that I had the factory hydraulics replaced with aftermarket.

As for the clunking and your car not going into gear easily, clunking is probably the Transmission mount. Get a Poly one. The difficulty in getting it into gear could be synchros going bad, Is it grinding or popping out of gear?

pjb

iTrader: (2)

you should be able to see the Borla plates in this picture and tell where they go. I would think the biggest hole would give you best performance, but I don't have a Borla. Looks simple enough to change. I would start with the largest and only change it if its too loud for you.

firebirdlover

Thanks guys, I am going to order a Tick master. Tired of bleeding. I must be getting a air leak somewhere. Car has 76k and the fluid was black thus being the seals breaking down.

As for the baffles in the exhaust, Borla sells em for $65 for a full set....FYI