ncorrell

iTrader: (3)

Hello everyone,

I just recently bought a 99 T/A ws6 AUTO with 28k miles. It's in excellent condition.

Only mods are an slp lid which I put on, a flomaster muffler and drilled/slotted rotors which the previous owner installed. I've read that flomaster is the worst exhaust to have on it?

I took it to the track for the first time last night and ran 13.6 at 102. I wasn't really sure the best way to run it. I noticed that if I staged it too high at the launch it wheel-hopped really bad. Is this normal for t/a's?

Anyways, let me know what you think. My next mods will probably be headers, manual cutout and a tune. I'm wanting to keep it mostly stock at this point in time.

Thanks!
Nick

JrodCamaro

I've heard that about Flowmasters also, guy before me installed a flowmaster muffler which sounds AWESOME! So I'm kinda reluctant to let it go. Wish my car had that little of mileage, it's gonna roll 106k sometime next week

Pictures?

I don't wheel hop on launch, but I never drop it at 4k RPM (6speed) But I do wheel hop shifting to 2nd hard, along with it trying to run me to the side pretty hard. Go with SFC's, LCA's and torque arm from what I've gathered should get rid of that

ncorrell

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the advice! I agree the flowmaster sounds amazing on the t/a. I figure that it still has to be better than stock so i might as well keep it for now.

Ill work on getting pictures up tomorrow, a friend of mine took some pretty cool ones.

RacingTiger03

iTrader: (3)

Flowmaster barely flows better than stock, but they do sound GREAT on these cars! lol. Ultra-flo (or a bullet) by dynomax, or a magnaflow will be next in the sound department and in the upper range of performance. as far as at the track, the stock converter is best left at idle, I always got worse times trying to hold it at 1600 and release anyways. To improve it a bit go about 3/4 throttle till 2nd then the rest of the way down as soon as it shifts. when my Z was an auto I was able to get it to a 2.0 60' on standard street tires with a 18" wheel that way, so I was very happy with that method lol. (2.3 trying to leave and flash the converter @ 1600rpm) your mph looks dead on for a stockish LS1, just work on that launch to find your cars sweet spot ... speaking of what kind of 60' were you getting?

and my current car(sig) and my 94 Z both had wheel hop pretty bad =/

AwsmGy

iTrader: (4)

I ran a 13.2 when I had a similar setup. Launched around 1kRPMs and managed to cut a 1.9 60' on street tires.

ncorrell

iTrader: (3)

I pulled a 2.1 60' nearly every time, even with the wheel hop. hope I can find that sweet spot!

I might look into dynomax exhaust when I do headers later on in the summer. Im in no hurry to get rid of the flowmaster.

paullyB

I have a auto 99 ws6 with 78,000 miles and flowmaster catback and k&n cai. I went to the strip my first time last night as well, but i didnt see a 13.6

my 1st was my best... a 13.8 with a .3 rt, then i started to get .1 rt's but my 1/4 was a 14.1 and a 14. idk why my car got slower the last 2 runs. kinda sucks

But the flowmaster exhuast sounds good for cruising,but for racing it sucks. what kinda of cutout are you going to use? i was going to put an electric cutout right at that straight piece of exhaust pipe between the cats and muffler. seems the best place..

ncorrell

iTrader: (3)

paullyB mine did the same thing...13.6, 13.7, 13.8. seems like the car gets hot pretty easily on the track.

as for the cutout, that location sounds like a good idea. although i am probably just going to have a manual cutout put on. I figure ill only be using it at the track and the occasional ride through the neighborhood

Good luck with the ride man!

Here are a couple pics of the t/a at its best! Enjoy



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nicentech

iTrader: (1)

Does the slp lid you put on support the ram air? I was wondering? And if you would do me a huge favor, measure the Inside diameter and outside diameter of the intake tube on the lid... I currently have a am lid on mine and a 95mm throttle body

Am sweet car btw

SR_94Blackbird

RT has nothing to do with ET or Trap speed. It just shows how fast you REACT to the light. You could have a 10 minute RT and it won't matter for your ET.

As for Flowmaster other mufflers, get the one that sounds the best. You're talking less than a hp difference between stock and the best flowing. In a race, thats like a big bird crap hitting your windshield.

ncorrell

iTrader: (3)

nicentech,

yes i believe it does support the ram air. basically it is the stock lid without all the mufflers and baffles to reduce noise. In order to measure it for you I would have to remove it from the maf tube and that was sort of a pain to get in. It is made to be an extremely tight fit to the stock air tube, whatever that diameter may be.

What i understand though is all lids perform/sound exactly the same. If you already have an aftermarket lid, I wouldn't worry about buying an slp lid.

davidv

congratz on your trans am bro, it looks awesome and definitely has low mileage. if you wanna stay close to stock, just add full exhaust bro, a tuning i would say it would help as well. once again congratz on your trans am, how bout some vidoes at the track

N/A_gets_you_laid

I had this problem too. I ran 14 flat at 102 TWO TIMES the first time i took my manual trans am out to the track. But when my dad had the car he turned 13.2's all the time at 108. -.- My 60ft was 2.226.

skopers3

iTrader: (3)

Sounds like you ahve a pretty good plan. I'd recommend installing a torque arm. I had HORRIBLE wheel hop until I installed one and now I have none. Also look into picking up an LS6 intake and some Drag Radials and you'll be good to go!

ncorrell

iTrader: (3)

Skopers I was just looking into torque arms...where is yours mounted? Ive found ones that mount on the trans, ones that work around stock exhaust, headers, etc. which location is the most effective?

cbr600rx7

iTrader: (12)

I think my best with 275 streets out back on stock WS6 wheels a budget muffler shop cat back and a drop in K&N filter. It would run 13.2-13.3 just about every pass and would do it all night. If i remember my best was a 13.17@107 on a 2.0 60.

The key is to get your 60 times down. Find out what best works for your car and find the point where it likes to bite with out spinning. If you are spinning you are not getting power to the ground so you are not going down the track. Some times bogging the car off the line is better then spinning. Try loading the car up a little on the converter but not all the way and then punch it on the last yellow if traction allows.

skopers3

iTrader: (3)

I have a full length, non-adjsutable UMI torque arm. If you're going to lower and do a lot of other suspension work you'll probably want and adjustable one. My understanding is that it's fine to mount to the trans unless you're making huge power, then you want to get it off but you may want to search around a bit about that.