Nowhereman

Guys, I am on my 3rd bulb now.
I have this issue with the driver side running / turn signal.
It works for a day or two, then goes out.
I have cleaned the socket, file boarded the contacts.
What can it be?
I do not want to pop 50 bucks for a damn socket.

babbage1109

iTrader: (11)

50 bucks? Autozone. It was like 15. And some crimp fittings. Problem solved. I had to do this a while ago

Nowhereman

Same locking design to the housing?

babbage1109

iTrader: (11)

Yeah. It's a 3157 socket. I actually have to go get one today for my pass side water keeps getting in. Just splice it in right and you're good to go

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

nowhereman, what year is this Firebird of yours?

LS1powerd

I had this same problem, and did the same, problem solved.

Oh, and auto-zone socket are'nt any better.

Nowhereman

I have a 2000 WS6 / 6 speeder.
I've done all the no / low cost mods and she has responded nicely.
I have one more for you guys.
If you get your self a pair of duck bill pliers, you can easily snap out all the restrictive finning inside the stock lid.
That and pulling the screen out with a good air filter makes a world of difference.
I have no thoughts of adding a new MAF now.
I also have an SLP exhaust system in her.
IF I want white knuckle acceleration, I jump on my 127 inch Fatboy.
The power in the WS6 is nice now and the mileage is great.

Z28/2002

iTrader: (27)

I've had the Autozone sockets in my car for about two years and have yet to have an issue

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

The front turn signal bulbs keep their high filament on when not using the turn signals and when the headlights are off. This was GM's bright idea (pun intended) of "daytime running lights". This causes the sockets to get pretty hot. Being in the bottom of the housing, water can get in them which corrodes the contacts. Eventually, the bulbs go out and/or the sockets burn. New bulbs in burned sockets won't last long.

I would suggest you replace the sockets and bulbs with new ones and be generous with some bulb grease. It's not really grease but a di-electric goop that will make the contacts somewhat water protected and also help wick away some of the heat produced.

If you can find bulbs with a "K" in the part number, use them, they're longer lasting krypton bulbs.

The sockets you get at parts stores are the same that GM has made for them.

If you haven't yet chopped out the old sockets, have a look at this:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/13371160-post26.html

y2k_ta

iTrader: (80)

AutoZone sockets have lasted longer for me than any of the factory units. I think I swapped one over three years ago. At the time, they cost me $7.00 a piece.

babbage1109

iTrader: (11)

I just swapped out my pass side yesterday. Another thing op check your actual housing for the light to make sure there's no cracks where water can get in. Mine had a hairline crack in the face letting water in a shorting the bulb out.

Nowhereman

I found a site that sells the sockets for less than 4 bucks.
They also have a line of LED replacements instead of using the bulb routine.
I run this type of LED cluster on my FLSTF and have had zero issues with them.
So, the ole bird is getting upgraded to 3157 type LED clusters with the new sockets.

Nowhereman

Thats cool and a clean way to do it.
I will try that route 1st when the sockets arrive.
Thank for the tip.