I´m building an 82 Trans Am. I was initially going to install a large displacement SBC with Duggan heads but after finding out the heads are only 38cc chambers (they were so cool I had to have them) so the heads are now display pieces. I have since decided to stick an LS engine in it, at least an LS2 preferrably larger.
I traded my LT1 T56 for an LS one so that is taken care of. Currently using an LS1 long block for mockup so I can build the exhaust, the cooling system and other parts while I'm working out the details on the engine. I will most likely be using a front distributor setup and a carb spider intake, maybe with FI maybe carb.
The car itself has full tubular suspension, k member, bilstein shocks, all poly bushings, sumped tank, watts linkage, all new balljoints & steering system, 13" C5 front brakes, 14" rear.
Interior will be stock with most likely Recaro Sportster CS seats (I have a set of them in black alcantara)
Hoping to pick up some pointers here on the LS stuff. I already did a 2004GTO LS1/T56 swap in an 82 Corvette.
This is with 1" set back, plenty of room but the driveshaft is a little right so instead of 41.5" I'm getting a 41" one.
Ignore the quickly hacked/welded crossmember. It's non functional. I'm going to get some alston inboard SFCs and fabricate a mount off them. The way it's now I don't have exhaust clearance and I want it to run besides the tranny.
Rad fits too...well..almost LOL. Need to cut that large bulge off the steering box so I can get a hose end on the oil cooler part and I need to cut and angle the lower rad hose connection
I wanted to install the mcleod 4th gen master and didn't feel like taking the damned pedals out again. The 4th gen stud is SMALLER than the 3rd gen. Doing searches here in the past I could have sworn it was the other way around. Also, the high pedal issue..is it caused by the location? I doubt it, the location is very similar in relation to the shaft. I had a clevis that was the right ID but it's too wide, the stud on the 3rd gen pedals is too short... frustration!! I decided to take a short cut. I removed the rod end from the aftermarket master and fabricated my own clevis. There's plenty of sideways play because of the wave washer, no play af all in the direction of the pedal. Done, this will slip right on.
I decided the C5 conversion is pretty damn hideous...well...the caliper at least. It's got too much of a production look to it, not "pro touring" at all...so, I got some C6 Grand Sport calipers without logos (Kore3) thatI'll stick on. Might as well upgrade to 14" front brakes. I'd like to keep the 2pc rotors so I'm going to see if coleman or wilwood makes a rotor that bolts to the baer hub (if anyone knows the baer hub patter, 12 boltson ??? diameter)
Never liked that the C5calipers are remanuf. cores with dents and scratches.
This is going to look soooo much better
Also bought some mac SFCs so I can start fabbing my trans mount off them when they come in.Wasgonna go with alstons but since I'm going to cut them up the macs were a better deal since they were significantly cheaper.
Got some more stuff done, I got my watts linkage installed and yippee a 4" exhaust tube clears, guess that solves the size I will run there
The sway bar wouldn't clear so I fabbed some spacers, good thing I welded the sway bar saddles to the axle, I can't get longer u clamps anywhere
Welded some standoffs to the radiator and mounted it
rear calipers, they are slightly used returns because of flaking paint (will repaint them anyway)
Rear brakes will end up something like this
Fabbing up trans mount/tq arm mount off SFCs
I will use some tube connectors like from ballistic fab or something alike to make the center section removable
driveshaft loop (and the driveshaft I scored on here ) The zip ties are my bubba way of holding the driveshaft somewhat in place, I don't have a 1350 yoke yet, got one on order from summit. All I had was a 1310 from a TH350 so that has to do for mockup.
Next problem is getting a big exhaust fit under here, biggest obstacle in getting a Y system is the trans mount and the TQ arm mount, so nothing left to do but move the tranny mount. I fabbed up my own little bushing mount and relocation bracket (will add gusset), the bar on the left of the pic will go, it's there to keep the tranny up for mockup only. The exhaust will fit nicely along the tailstock of the trans there and meet up with the other side into a Y mergo to a 4" pipe.
__________________ 2001 Black Trans Am: carbon fiber WS6 ram air hood, ceramic coated hooker long tubes, OR y-pipe, flowmaster exhaust, SLP lid, K&N, Diablosport Predator tuner, factory LS6 intake, adjustable torque arm, adjustable control arms, adjustable panhard bar, adjustable air ride coilovers, black ZO6 wheels
It's all going slow, waiting on the container with parts. Only progress I made is buying a short block and LS7 heads for it, the short block is a LSX 495. Also got a front distributor drive cover for it. I will be running a carb on it. Don't want to have all the wiring junk from a FI system on it anymore like on my Camaro. It's a spaghetti of wiring, I hate it.
The rad came like that with the -20 AN bungs. If not, it's simply a matter of welding on some bungs. I will run a -20 AN hose. This is what I have on my camaro also. I detest hose clamps.
Similar setup, MiniRam 355 where I modified the thermostat housing, simply a -20 bung welded on
Modified radiator (original hose connection does not fit w/ D1SC)
Got the inner SFCs/trans mount and otherstuff combo done. All welded up, ready for the powdercoater to redo it. These parts like the SFCs all come with junk coating, simply coated over the mill scale and everything and no primer coat. My coater blasts, primers and top coats. Much much more durable that this junk. I installed the same type of SFCs under my gray iroc and the coating is flaking off and there's surface rust under it.
My buddy bought some wheels for his silver 83 TA. Couldn't pass it fitting them. They may look good on there in gold but I fear they do not offer enough caliper clearance. Mixed feelings on them though