My First Ta ws6
05-09-2012, 11:01 PM
#1
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My First Ta ws6 Alright guys I just got my first ls1. its a 2000 ws6. i know that there are some mods that i can do right away. well thats what i keep hearing about, some that are cheap, free and give you a little more horses.. what mods do you guys think i should do first before i get into head and cam swap and things like that... ill post pics of the beast later.. i thank everyone for the tips and pointers
05-09-2012, 11:04 PM
#2
Search on here or google for free LS1 mods and a few will come up.
Good starting mods would be. Intake lid, headers, y-pipe, exhaust, tune. This will also give you a good start for when you steep up to a cam package.
Good starting mods would be. Intake lid, headers, y-pipe, exhaust, tune. This will also give you a good start for when you steep up to a cam package.
05-09-2012, 11:18 PM
#4
Skip the lid and ls6 intake and all other little bullshit. That's basically money wasted for teeny tiny gains.
For engine modifications, start with some long-tube headers and a Y-pipe or X-pipe. Anything less than Texas-Speed & Performance's Stainless Steel 1-7/8" headers is a waste of time, money & effort. Get your headgaskets, EGR/AIR delete, and Y-pipe/X-pipe and voila. Advise you to change sparkplugs and motor mounts at this time as well, as you're already down there.
Next, a Chris1313RA (ram air) from Speed Inc. Leave your stock lid on.
Stall converter, if you're an Automatic.
Save for good heads and have a custom cam spec'd. Do it right, save up & don't skimp.
For suspension, start with your shocks (Find some used Konis here, they're great shocks) then do the springs at the same time (BMR or Stranos are great, and not much different in price. In the grand scheme, they're not as expensive as they may seem now). After you're done with that, do the little **** if you want--(the rear lower control arms, panhard bar, and swaybars).
Don't waste your time with the stuff that's barely noticeable. If you're spending the money, make sure you're going to see a significant difference. That's my 2-cents from my experience; Hindsight is 20/20.
For engine modifications, start with some long-tube headers and a Y-pipe or X-pipe. Anything less than Texas-Speed & Performance's Stainless Steel 1-7/8" headers is a waste of time, money & effort. Get your headgaskets, EGR/AIR delete, and Y-pipe/X-pipe and voila. Advise you to change sparkplugs and motor mounts at this time as well, as you're already down there.
Next, a Chris1313RA (ram air) from Speed Inc. Leave your stock lid on.
Stall converter, if you're an Automatic.
Save for good heads and have a custom cam spec'd. Do it right, save up & don't skimp.
For suspension, start with your shocks (Find some used Konis here, they're great shocks) then do the springs at the same time (BMR or Stranos are great, and not much different in price. In the grand scheme, they're not as expensive as they may seem now). After you're done with that, do the little **** if you want--(the rear lower control arms, panhard bar, and swaybars).
Don't waste your time with the stuff that's barely noticeable. If you're spending the money, make sure you're going to see a significant difference. That's my 2-cents from my experience; Hindsight is 20/20.
05-10-2012, 11:12 AM
#5
I disagree with the LID and LS6 intake not being worth it. They are proven to show good gains for the money. Plus you can pick up a whisper lid for very cheap or a used SLP lid for even cheaper. Also the best bang for your buck header/y pipe combo is the painted pacesetters. No they will not look pretty but they are by far the easiest to install if you are doing the work yourself and you can get the combo with gaskets for about $425.00 bucks new.
The LID and LS6 intake may net you 5-10 horses at best but it is a noticeable difference and it opens the door up for future mods down the road. But I would focus on the exhaust side of things first since that’s where you are going to pick up the bigger gains. Headers, Y pipe, and exhaust should net you around 35 horses.
Once you get a few solid mods done you should find a good tuning shop in your local area or contact Frost at frozen boost for a mail order tune. Tuning is everything on our cars and will give you a few more horses.
The LID and LS6 intake may net you 5-10 horses at best but it is a noticeable difference and it opens the door up for future mods down the road. But I would focus on the exhaust side of things first since that’s where you are going to pick up the bigger gains. Headers, Y pipe, and exhaust should net you around 35 horses.
Once you get a few solid mods done you should find a good tuning shop in your local area or contact Frost at frozen boost for a mail order tune. Tuning is everything on our cars and will give you a few more horses.
05-10-2012, 02:59 PM
#6
12 Second Club
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: 5.0
Posts: 1,302
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
a lid and LS6 intake do a lot for a '00. its already got the better manifolds and 241s so that is where i'd start.
next phase would be full exhaust then a 85mm MAF with the tune.
next phase would be full exhaust then a 85mm MAF with the tune.
05-10-2012, 05:16 PM
#7
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
okay, sounds like i need a ls6 intake for sure.. i got a buddie with a 2000 ss he has a crap ton of stuff done to it.. but mine already has an exhaust i dont think it has aftermarket headers. should i go with longtube headers?? and with the ls6 intake will i need fuel rails or anything or a bigger throttle body?? and what is a better lid than slp?
Trending Topics
05-10-2012, 06:14 PM
#8
TECH Enthusiast
The Lid is dyno proven to give you 10 to the wheels, get one from the for sale section. As long as you go for a reputable company they should all be the same.. Ive only ever had one so i cant personally tell you if ones better then the other. The headers gave me 40 to the wheels and i went with cheap used hooker long tubes and a texas speed y. Everyone says go with an LS6 intake and i did that too. Then i found a fast 78 intake in the for sale section for 50 dollars more then I paid for my LS6 Im now selling my LS6. If i could go and do it again i would have just bought a fast 78 in the first place. Both the fast 78 and LS6 are direct bolt ons that use your stock 78mm throttle body and fuel rails. The fast 78 can easily be opened up to accept an 85mm throttle body later on for even more gains. Off the bat I'd do the lid first and intake second. Then do headers. Not free mods but easy.
Last edited by IRONFIST; 05-10-2012 at 06:23 PM.
05-10-2012, 11:41 PM
#11
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
awesome.. thanks for all the tips guys ill def. use all of them... ive heard good things about kooks headers and hooker headers, does it really matter i know the longtubes are going to add more power.. and should i get 1 inch 7/8 on the headers? i guess it wont matter to much its goin to be better than stock ha ha. i cant wait to get started
05-11-2012, 10:51 AM
#12
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Van Buren AR
Posts: 520
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Skip the lid and ls6 intake and all other little bullshit. That's basically money wasted for teeny tiny gains.
For engine modifications, start with some long-tube headers and a Y-pipe or X-pipe. Anything less than Texas-Speed & Performance's Stainless Steel 1-7/8" headers is a waste of time, money & effort. Get your headgaskets, EGR/AIR delete, and Y-pipe/X-pipe and voila. Advise you to change sparkplugs and motor mounts at this time as well, as you're already down there.
Next, a Chris1313RA (ram air) from Speed Inc. Leave your stock lid on.
Stall converter, if you're an Automatic.
Save for good heads and have a custom cam spec'd. Do it right, save up & don't skimp.
For suspension, start with your shocks (Find some used Konis here, they're great shocks) then do the springs at the same time (BMR or Stranos are great, and not much different in price. In the grand scheme, they're not as expensive as they may seem now). After you're done with that, do the little **** if you want--(the rear lower control arms, panhard bar, and swaybars).
Don't waste your time with the stuff that's barely noticeable. If you're spending the money, make sure you're going to see a significant difference. That's my 2-cents from my experience; Hindsight is 20/20.
For engine modifications, start with some long-tube headers and a Y-pipe or X-pipe. Anything less than Texas-Speed & Performance's Stainless Steel 1-7/8" headers is a waste of time, money & effort. Get your headgaskets, EGR/AIR delete, and Y-pipe/X-pipe and voila. Advise you to change sparkplugs and motor mounts at this time as well, as you're already down there.
Next, a Chris1313RA (ram air) from Speed Inc. Leave your stock lid on.
Stall converter, if you're an Automatic.
Save for good heads and have a custom cam spec'd. Do it right, save up & don't skimp.
For suspension, start with your shocks (Find some used Konis here, they're great shocks) then do the springs at the same time (BMR or Stranos are great, and not much different in price. In the grand scheme, they're not as expensive as they may seem now). After you're done with that, do the little **** if you want--(the rear lower control arms, panhard bar, and swaybars).
Don't waste your time with the stuff that's barely noticeable. If you're spending the money, make sure you're going to see a significant difference. That's my 2-cents from my experience; Hindsight is 20/20.
05-11-2012, 10:57 PM
#13
Staging Lane
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
05-11-2012, 11:17 PM
#14
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Van Buren AR
Posts: 520
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
No crap man. I'm not one for e-fights but when someone passes their opinions off as facts is when I step in. I'm sure this guy hasn't even seen a dyno graph comparing the TSP's to any of the "worthless" headers, just another eBay header band wagoner. With that said though I do like the TSP's a lot, I'm just a college kid who's trying to make comfortable power within my tiny budget, hence why I went with the eBay's and all the other "bullshit mods that I should've skipped that gives you those teeny tiny gains" lol
05-11-2012, 11:26 PM
#15
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Van Buren AR
Posts: 520
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
awesome.. thanks for all the tips guys ill def. use all of them... ive heard good things about kooks headers and hooker headers, does it really matter i know the longtubes are going to add more power.. and should i get 1 inch 7/8 on the headers? i guess it wont matter to much its goin to be better than stock ha ha. i cant wait to get started
