A few basic questions
#1
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Hello guys,
I've recently picked up my second LT1 6 Speed car which I am happy with, but it certainly needs more attention than my first. Compared, this one is a mess. Let me list some of the details.
•Year is '95
•Convertible (Only leak is around the driver window as the driver door isn't aligned properly)
•Completely Stock minus Solid Intake Piping
•Shifts Great through all gears up and down
•Seemingly reliable. made a 125 mile trip home without an issue
Now, I come from a different platform, but see myself as an enthusiast as I enjoy a wide range of vehicles. These are simply one of my favorites. I've got years behind in the smaller engine world, so please excuse me if I state anything absolutely retarded. Below are the outstanding issues I've noticed in as much detail as I can provide without pictures.
1 : Car pulls to the right, hard. Alignment is needed terribly.
2 : Oil leak from one of the valve covers, driver side as far as I could tell.
3 : Constant miss - this takes firm hold once it starts warming up. The warmer it is, the more it misses. It will miss idling, driving, anytime. I have -not- changed plugs or plug wires yet as I have had the vehicle less than 24 hours. Pulling Codes shows a miss on 3 cylinders.
4 : Previous owner mentioned changing all fluids from the engine to the rear. I've noticed a very slight grind-like noise when engaging in any gear. There is no notchiness or anything, just sounds like the gears are mating roughly..as well as I can describe it. I was informed that a specific trans fluid is recommended - what is the worst case that the wrong fluid was used? Would this be a symptom?
5 : Just mentioning - from my last bird, I knew that the intake elbow had a habit of folding in on itself so I checked for this. Glad I did, the entire bottom half was folded in on itself so it was pulling in half of it's intake from unmetered air. Resolved this.
6 : Driving it into work this morning (only a mile) I noticed it was running rich when I stepped out of the car. This would signify poor ignition or a leaky injector, correct? I've heard all the pain of the Opti system, but wouldn't a failing opti show a miss on all cylinders?
7 : Owner before the previous painted the large strip of the dash that wraps around the airbag door on the passenger wide white with crap paint. Also the very top of the dash that is known for cracking is cracked. Can I replace the two pieces individually? What are the average prices for these? Would paint stripper destroy the actual dash underneath the crap paint? It's not latex - what was used.
Those, for the time being, are the outstanding issues with the car.
I've recently picked up my second LT1 6 Speed car which I am happy with, but it certainly needs more attention than my first. Compared, this one is a mess. Let me list some of the details.
•Year is '95
•Convertible (Only leak is around the driver window as the driver door isn't aligned properly)
•Completely Stock minus Solid Intake Piping
•Shifts Great through all gears up and down
•Seemingly reliable. made a 125 mile trip home without an issue
Now, I come from a different platform, but see myself as an enthusiast as I enjoy a wide range of vehicles. These are simply one of my favorites. I've got years behind in the smaller engine world, so please excuse me if I state anything absolutely retarded. Below are the outstanding issues I've noticed in as much detail as I can provide without pictures.
1 : Car pulls to the right, hard. Alignment is needed terribly.
2 : Oil leak from one of the valve covers, driver side as far as I could tell.
3 : Constant miss - this takes firm hold once it starts warming up. The warmer it is, the more it misses. It will miss idling, driving, anytime. I have -not- changed plugs or plug wires yet as I have had the vehicle less than 24 hours. Pulling Codes shows a miss on 3 cylinders.
4 : Previous owner mentioned changing all fluids from the engine to the rear. I've noticed a very slight grind-like noise when engaging in any gear. There is no notchiness or anything, just sounds like the gears are mating roughly..as well as I can describe it. I was informed that a specific trans fluid is recommended - what is the worst case that the wrong fluid was used? Would this be a symptom?
5 : Just mentioning - from my last bird, I knew that the intake elbow had a habit of folding in on itself so I checked for this. Glad I did, the entire bottom half was folded in on itself so it was pulling in half of it's intake from unmetered air. Resolved this.
6 : Driving it into work this morning (only a mile) I noticed it was running rich when I stepped out of the car. This would signify poor ignition or a leaky injector, correct? I've heard all the pain of the Opti system, but wouldn't a failing opti show a miss on all cylinders?
7 : Owner before the previous painted the large strip of the dash that wraps around the airbag door on the passenger wide white with crap paint. Also the very top of the dash that is known for cracking is cracked. Can I replace the two pieces individually? What are the average prices for these? Would paint stripper destroy the actual dash underneath the crap paint? It's not latex - what was used.
Those, for the time being, are the outstanding issues with the car.
#2
For the convertable top, Put baby oil on it every once in a while, wont ever leak again! Try putting Lucas oil in tranny! and make sure you filter the old oil and mix it with new oil. Everytime I have put all new oil in tranny it went out. The dash paint will come off but it will look like crap when done, I have had to do many times to cars I have got. Alignment is cheap at most places. And If your gasket on the valve cover is rubber just put gasket cealer on it.
#3
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How come I get the feeling 25% of that was sarcasm? Haha.
I've never heard of mixing used gear oil with new - I've only ever used fresh every third oil change. I've been told that Dexron III ATF is the way to go. I've also heard that GM Syncromesh is good as well, which I'm familiar with and run on my AWD Talon with highly positive results.
Also, on the driver door - What is the best way to adjust the door? Mine seems to hang a little low at the very back and slides up into the doorway when it's shut.
Going to add - I pulled it up on ramps, running, and looked it over. There seems to be a Tranny fluid leak. Are these things known to leak? It's giving me a dime-sized drop every 15-20 seconds. Where is a common spot I should look for the source of the leak? Perhaps there's a pan?
I've never heard of mixing used gear oil with new - I've only ever used fresh every third oil change. I've been told that Dexron III ATF is the way to go. I've also heard that GM Syncromesh is good as well, which I'm familiar with and run on my AWD Talon with highly positive results.
Also, on the driver door - What is the best way to adjust the door? Mine seems to hang a little low at the very back and slides up into the doorway when it's shut.
Going to add - I pulled it up on ramps, running, and looked it over. There seems to be a Tranny fluid leak. Are these things known to leak? It's giving me a dime-sized drop every 15-20 seconds. Where is a common spot I should look for the source of the leak? Perhaps there's a pan?
#5
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Ignition Control Module you say? Neat. I'll check that out.
I want to also add - My rad fans seem to stay on all the time....That's.. not normal. What might cause that besides a CTS?
Drove it a bit more today - Surely ignition miss. I'm going to bank on it being a bad plug. I looked in there and noticed rust around the porcelain on them so I'll assume they have been bad for some time now. I expect them to be fouled beyond belief. I'll pull one after work to confirm.
I want to also add - My rad fans seem to stay on all the time....That's.. not normal. What might cause that besides a CTS?
Drove it a bit more today - Surely ignition miss. I'm going to bank on it being a bad plug. I looked in there and noticed rust around the porcelain on them so I'll assume they have been bad for some time now. I expect them to be fouled beyond belief. I'll pull one after work to confirm.
#6
Not any sarcasm. And if there is rust on plugs then the for sure need a change, nothing beats the feel on new plugs and wires man. For the tranny leak most common spots are the seal at the back of it where drive shaft goes in. Easy enough to replace, shouldn't cost much. And if it is the seal then that means its getting thrown all under your car getting everything oily. My z28 had the same problem when I got it, it just needed to be changed. and while you have the drive shaft out you might as well change the rear main seal so you don't have to later. Now for the door, I was taught this by a old friend of mine and it worked. Take a jack and put it under door ( make sure there is something soft between jack and door to prevent chipping) Loosen the bolt on the hinges to make the door loose, ( it should hang low) Jack the door up to the right height and tighten the bolts back as much as you can. Then take jack down, should fix the problem! If not then your hinges are probably bent. Camaro and T/A doors are known to sagg.
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#8
Honestly if you do it your self maybe a hour or so if that. Once you get the drive shaft out the seal is a breeze, then put new seal on it and put drive shaft back in and your done. If your car is on ramps then I would recommend putting very heavy blocks in front of wheels so you dont have to worry about car crushing you while drive shaft is out. If it is still leaking after you change seal then I would have a auto shop check it out, chances are its the tranny pan leaking.
#9
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Well I'm no stranger to work, it's just getting a feel of what I'm looking for when I dive in. Working on my Talon is one thing because I know where everything is. Working on this will be slow and painful as I figure it out. I always support my vehicles with jack stands - I don't trust ramps. I'll drive it on ramps, shove iack stands under it as well, and call it even.
The trans pan you mentioned - what's so difficult about tackling that yourself?
Also, I'll be changing plugs and plug wires as well during this time to hopefully resolve my miss. Any pointers on this? I think I can deal with the plugs but I've been reading that the wires are worse. Why is this?
The trans pan you mentioned - what's so difficult about tackling that yourself?
Also, I'll be changing plugs and plug wires as well during this time to hopefully resolve my miss. Any pointers on this? I think I can deal with the plugs but I've been reading that the wires are worse. Why is this?
#10
If it is on bottom of tranny like most are then absolutely nothing, its fairly easy, but f its on the side of the tranny that might be a challenge. Little harder to get a wratchet up there. Pointers on plugs and wires.. Most people who own the trans am and camaro of your year and mine hate changing the plugs, the reason for that is cause they are hard to get to.. Most people have to take the whole front assembly off so they can slide the motor forward. others who dont want to do that just try thier best to fit thier hands back there to get them on. Just look at yours and decide what you wanna do. Then just put them on. I think the T/A has a little more room than the camaro, so best of luck man.
#11
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I just changed plug and plug wires - It was a hassle but only took about an hour. I luckily had the tools I needed. The worst one was the passenger side front - the one closest to the alternator. Kept getting the ratchet stuck.
It still misses - but not as bad. The plugs were a mix of 4 platinum AC Delcos and 4 Platinum 4' Bosches - They basically changed the easy ones. I installed some Copper Core plugs gapped at .050. I enjoy Copper Cores myself.
One thing I noticed is that the hose running from the side of the Throttle Body to the passenger side valve cover which I assume is the PVC is filled with this cream colored goop and had moisture - enough to run out. It smells heavily of fuel. Any ideas on what that might be? I have also noticed that my fans kick on almost 5-7 seconds after I start the car and I have a SES light. Took it to the local Advance and am getting a Read Error - so they can't pull the codes.
Identified the "Goop' as moisture that had condensed on the PCV. I checked the PCV - Allows about 5% air back into the crank case and all out. I am used to the function of a PCV per my Talon, but figured there isn't any forced induction that could be forced into the PCV the opposite way so I would deem it functioning fine.
However, I am still getting a miss though not near as bad. Plug Wires looked good - I had picked up a set and intended to change them but they checked out fine and I wasn't sure how to route them at all.
EVERY plug smelled heavily of gas. My PCV smells of fuel as well. I'm going to assume this will mean bad rings - but there is absolutely no smoke with this car and it has plenty of power. I would think there would be more symptoms if I had blow-by. I assume that due to bad plugs, the cylinders were washed down and it simply enriched my oil with fuel. I'll be doing an oil change next week.
Any other pointers as to what could cause a miss in every gear/idle/under load?
I think my next steps at this point are to eliminate the EGR and replace the ignition module. Any recommendations? Hopefully one of the two are what the cause for the rich condition/miss is.
It still misses - but not as bad. The plugs were a mix of 4 platinum AC Delcos and 4 Platinum 4' Bosches - They basically changed the easy ones. I installed some Copper Core plugs gapped at .050. I enjoy Copper Cores myself.
One thing I noticed is that the hose running from the side of the Throttle Body to the passenger side valve cover which I assume is the PVC is filled with this cream colored goop and had moisture - enough to run out. It smells heavily of fuel. Any ideas on what that might be? I have also noticed that my fans kick on almost 5-7 seconds after I start the car and I have a SES light. Took it to the local Advance and am getting a Read Error - so they can't pull the codes.
Identified the "Goop' as moisture that had condensed on the PCV. I checked the PCV - Allows about 5% air back into the crank case and all out. I am used to the function of a PCV per my Talon, but figured there isn't any forced induction that could be forced into the PCV the opposite way so I would deem it functioning fine.
However, I am still getting a miss though not near as bad. Plug Wires looked good - I had picked up a set and intended to change them but they checked out fine and I wasn't sure how to route them at all.
EVERY plug smelled heavily of gas. My PCV smells of fuel as well. I'm going to assume this will mean bad rings - but there is absolutely no smoke with this car and it has plenty of power. I would think there would be more symptoms if I had blow-by. I assume that due to bad plugs, the cylinders were washed down and it simply enriched my oil with fuel. I'll be doing an oil change next week.
Any other pointers as to what could cause a miss in every gear/idle/under load?
I think my next steps at this point are to eliminate the EGR and replace the ignition module. Any recommendations? Hopefully one of the two are what the cause for the rich condition/miss is.
#12
Yeah man I would go for that, If you got all new plugs and wires in it then it shouldnt miss at all, I don't think the T/A has a distibutor cap does it? If so I would check the cap and rotor, They can cause a miss too.
#13
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Opti and Ignition module.
I was also thinking this morning - my SES doesn't come on until I touch the gas. Perhaps it's a failing TPS? There are so many things that -could- cause a miss, I just need to narrow down what it most likely is and isn't so I don't go tossing $500 at a problem and not fix it.
Found this today in the car... No idea what it is. Look familiar to anyone?
It's Christmas! A good present would be a good general direction. Haha.
I was also thinking this morning - my SES doesn't come on until I touch the gas. Perhaps it's a failing TPS? There are so many things that -could- cause a miss, I just need to narrow down what it most likely is and isn't so I don't go tossing $500 at a problem and not fix it.
Found this today in the car... No idea what it is. Look familiar to anyone?
It's Christmas! A good present would be a good general direction. Haha.