Window switch/motor question
08-26-2013, 10:25 PM
#1
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Window switch/motor question On my 2002 TA my windows are slow as molasses to go up or down, But my drivers side will only go up/down about half way before it stops and you have to leave it alone for a few minutes before it will finish going up/down. Input on this would be very helpful. And thanks in advance.
08-26-2013, 10:52 PM
#4
Yea some people go through window motors quicker than a set of tires 
Instead of just replacing it, consider upgrading it. It's harder but odds are you will never need to take your door apart again
Instead of just replacing it, consider upgrading it. It's harder but odds are you will never need to take your door apart again
08-28-2013, 04:49 PM
#6
The motor stops because the circuit breaker trips and has to wait to auto-reset. The breaker trips because the tracks are sticking and the motor is too. Mine was verrry slow so, I bought a replacement motor for mine 5 years ago. While awaiting arrival, I took off the door panel, greased the tracks, and tweaked the alignment. The replacement motor is still in the original box.
08-28-2013, 06:36 PM
#7
On my 2002 TA my windows are slow as molasses to go up or down, But my drivers side will only go up/down about half way before it stops and you have to leave it alone for a few minutes before it will finish going up/down. Input on this would be very helpful. And thanks in advance.
Here's a thread on what needs to be done:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...blems-fix.html
The motor stops because the circuit breaker trips and has to wait to auto-reset. The breaker trips because the tracks are sticking and the motor is too. Mine was verrry slow so, I bought a replacement motor for mine 5 years ago. While awaiting arrival, I took off the door panel, greased the tracks, and tweaked the alignment. The replacement motor is still in the original box.
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08-28-2013, 09:20 PM
#9
Nooooo, he's not saying you're lying, DrEvyl is saying that he thinks the BCM is the culprit.
Meanwhile, I too think the window tracks need lubing but there's no circuit breaker that I know of that trips and resets itself.
When these motors get hot, their DC resistance goes up and they draw even less current-from a already flawed and crappy GM window wiring system.
I believe there's also a resistive link in these motors that further limits the current-so the windows can't choke your puppy who's not smart enough to pull his head in.
Meanwhile, I too think the window tracks need lubing but there's no circuit breaker that I know of that trips and resets itself.
When these motors get hot, their DC resistance goes up and they draw even less current-from a already flawed and crappy GM window wiring system.
I believe there's also a resistive link in these motors that further limits the current-so the windows can't choke your puppy who's not smart enough to pull his head in.
08-28-2013, 09:56 PM
#10
The self-resettable circuit breaker is in the inside (I/P) fuse panel. There are two identical ones for Windows and Defogger. They WILL reset after several minutes typically; that is their designed use. You can buy the circuit breakers at most auto parts stores: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...146258_0_86924
Also there are "PTC Resetable" fuses inside each motor that do the same thing but are less rugged. This is the item that fails most often in the motors. They are extremely inexpensive buy very, very difficult to replace without destroying the motor.
The BCM relay that controls the Retained accessory power (RAP) is a single-pole relay and has one supply connection and one feed connection. The feed connection supplies power to BOTH motor circuits. The OP said only one side has the stopping problem. The BCM fault would affect both side equally and it would not reset after just waiting.
Trust me about electronics. I am a 65 yr old EE with 45 years experience in the test and measurement field and am still working every day.
Also there are "PTC Resetable" fuses inside each motor that do the same thing but are less rugged. This is the item that fails most often in the motors. They are extremely inexpensive buy very, very difficult to replace without destroying the motor.
The BCM relay that controls the Retained accessory power (RAP) is a single-pole relay and has one supply connection and one feed connection. The feed connection supplies power to BOTH motor circuits. The OP said only one side has the stopping problem. The BCM fault would affect both side equally and it would not reset after just waiting.
Trust me about electronics. I am a 65 yr old EE with 45 years experience in the test and measurement field and am still working every day.
08-28-2013, 10:13 PM
#11
The self-resettable circuit breaker is in the inside (I/P) fuse panel. There are two identical ones for Windows and Defogger. They WILL reset after several minutes typically; that is their designed use. You can buy the circuit breakers at most auto parts stores: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...146258_0_86924
Also there are "PTC Resetable" fuses inside each motor that do the same thing but are less rugged. This is the item that fails most often in the motors. They are extremely inexpensive buy very, very difficult to replace without destroying the motor.
The BCM relay that controls the Retained accessory power (RAP) is a single-pole relay and has one supply connection and one feed connection. The feed connection supplies power to BOTH motor circuits. The OP said only one side has the stopping problem. The BCM fault would affect both side equally and it would not reset after just waiting.
Trust me about electronics. I am a 65 yr old EE with 45 years experience in the test and measurement field and am still working every day.
Also there are "PTC Resetable" fuses inside each motor that do the same thing but are less rugged. This is the item that fails most often in the motors. They are extremely inexpensive buy very, very difficult to replace without destroying the motor.
The BCM relay that controls the Retained accessory power (RAP) is a single-pole relay and has one supply connection and one feed connection. The feed connection supplies power to BOTH motor circuits. The OP said only one side has the stopping problem. The BCM fault would affect both side equally and it would not reset after just waiting.
Trust me about electronics. I am a 65 yr old EE with 45 years experience in the test and measurement field and am still working every day.
I had symptoms similar to yours before I did this. I think the best solution would be to align and lube the tracks since the repetitive overloading of the window motor is what causes the internal fuse to fail in the first place.
Last edited by s7ven; 08-28-2013 at 10:27 PM.
