Finally doing it! (Plus rebuilding everything)
11-16-2013, 09:16 AM
#7
I need to keep this within a decent budget. And no way am I installing an iron block in my car. I'll be using the engine that came in the car.
My goal will be 500 RWHP. 383, heads, cam, etc. I'll be doing a quality build with head & main studs, Evans water pump, Melling 18% oil pump, etc.
There's a lot of options for head & cam setups but I don't expect to be done until end of winter so eventually I'll land on a setup.
My goal will be 500 RWHP. 383, heads, cam, etc. I'll be doing a quality build with head & main studs, Evans water pump, Melling 18% oil pump, etc.
There's a lot of options for head & cam setups but I don't expect to be done until end of winter so eventually I'll land on a setup.
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11-16-2013, 10:36 AM
#8
Wouldn't a RWHP that high require a very well thought out combination of parts and possible loss of drivability? I seen in a mag (NO, I don't recall which one) they built a 383 and I was surprised and VERY skeptical of the final power numbers IIRC. they where VERY close to 600 FWHP
Good luck with your build!!!
Good luck with your build!!!
11-17-2013, 01:17 AM
#12
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This is the route I will be taking very soon. So I will keep a eye on your build. I am also and A4, but I will be okay with 450-460 hp. I am looking for as much tq I can get.
Last edited by 98z8uup; 11-17-2013 at 01:31 AM.
11-28-2013, 08:02 PM
#13
OK folks, so far, I've acquired the small parts:
Oil pump, Melling +18% volume;
LS6 valley cover;
Fluidampr;
Head studs (ARP);
Main studs (ARP);
Lower gasket kit;
B&M flexplate;
TFS LS2 timing damper & adapter;
Cam, damper & flexplate bolts (ARP);
Rollmaster single row iwis timing set.
Oil pump, Melling +18% volume;
LS6 valley cover;
Fluidampr;
Head studs (ARP);
Main studs (ARP);
Lower gasket kit;
B&M flexplate;
TFS LS2 timing damper & adapter;
Cam, damper & flexplate bolts (ARP);
Rollmaster single row iwis timing set.
11-29-2013, 09:07 AM
#17
After exhaustive research, I've decided to go with a PRW water pump for $256.00 The Evans pump and pulley would've hit like $500.00.
Plenty of good reviews and comments around here for the PRW pumps and they have some pretty nice features.
I want something a little better then the stock pump, I'm very **** about my cooling systems.
Plenty of good reviews and comments around here for the PRW pumps and they have some pretty nice features.
I want something a little better then the stock pump, I'm very **** about my cooling systems.
11-29-2013, 09:55 AM
#18
If you're going with AI and a 383, definitely go with the 232's vice the 226's. Phil did them specifically for the strokers.
As you well know though, aftermarket castings (used) can be had here for a great price. If it's going to the machine shop anyway, might as well have the heads looked at as well... If you go that route.
As you well know though, aftermarket castings (used) can be had here for a great price. If it's going to the machine shop anyway, might as well have the heads looked at as well... If you go that route.
11-29-2013, 09:59 AM
#19
Very interested to see how this pans out....
Question ??? How much truth or validity to 383s using oil when a 4" crank
w/6.125 rods are put into the factory block ???? Aparently the piston ABDC
is not totally supported by the factory sleeve which causes it to rock, scuff,
and beat up the skirts....which can lead to ring flutter and oil blowby as well
as consumption. Just curious as to whether or not this is more related to im-
proper machining or over RPMs with an inherently TQ oriented set-up ???
I know Mamo uses the small rod journal crank to eliminate clearancing and
ERL's website talks about longer sleeves to help with stroker cranks.....
I wonder how this collection of parts to a bit different combo might work....
K1 3.900" stroke 4340 crank....
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ko...make/chevrolet
Callies Compstar 6.250" 4340 H-beam rods
http://www.competitionproducts.com/C...SA6250DS2A2AH/
Arias 3.905" pistons @ 1.053" C.H.
http://arias-pistons.myshopify.com/c...9-3-90-1-053ch
At 374 inches and 11.5 comp w/62 cc heads and GM MLS gaskets...the math
works out to + 0.013" piston deck height (undecked block)...roughly .038"-
to .041" quench (I've seen 051 or 054 for gasket thickness) and the rod to
stroke ratio ends up at 1.603 as opposed to 1.53 for the 4" X 6.125" combo
Although I generally prefer a taller piston for bore stability...in this case with
less side thrust (better ratio) and the piston staying in the sleeve ABDC....my
guess is that it would work and still produce killer torque while only giving up
9 cubic inches....If only I had 5 grand laying around I'd probably already
know the answer.......Good Luck on your build sir !!!!
I agree with DR ^^^^^^...when you said AI my first thought was the 232s.
They sure are awefully nice and the extra cubes would eat that up 4 sure!!
Question ??? How much truth or validity to 383s using oil when a 4" crank
w/6.125 rods are put into the factory block ???? Aparently the piston ABDC
is not totally supported by the factory sleeve which causes it to rock, scuff,
and beat up the skirts....which can lead to ring flutter and oil blowby as well
as consumption. Just curious as to whether or not this is more related to im-
proper machining or over RPMs with an inherently TQ oriented set-up ???
I know Mamo uses the small rod journal crank to eliminate clearancing and
ERL's website talks about longer sleeves to help with stroker cranks.....
I wonder how this collection of parts to a bit different combo might work....
K1 3.900" stroke 4340 crank....
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ko...make/chevrolet
Callies Compstar 6.250" 4340 H-beam rods
http://www.competitionproducts.com/C...SA6250DS2A2AH/
Arias 3.905" pistons @ 1.053" C.H.
http://arias-pistons.myshopify.com/c...9-3-90-1-053ch
At 374 inches and 11.5 comp w/62 cc heads and GM MLS gaskets...the math
works out to + 0.013" piston deck height (undecked block)...roughly .038"-
to .041" quench (I've seen 051 or 054 for gasket thickness) and the rod to
stroke ratio ends up at 1.603 as opposed to 1.53 for the 4" X 6.125" combo
Although I generally prefer a taller piston for bore stability...in this case with
less side thrust (better ratio) and the piston staying in the sleeve ABDC....my
guess is that it would work and still produce killer torque while only giving up
9 cubic inches....If only I had 5 grand laying around I'd probably already
know the answer.......Good Luck on your build sir !!!!
I agree with DR ^^^^^^...when you said AI my first thought was the 232s.
They sure are awefully nice and the extra cubes would eat that up 4 sure!!
Last edited by A.R. Shale Targa; 11-30-2013 at 03:41 PM.
