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need advice to lower a 98-02 trans am ws6

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Old 02-20-2014, 01:42 PM
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Default need advice to lower a 98-02 trans am ws6

I am looking to purchase a 98-02 trans am ws6. What i am wondering is what all i will need to lower the car, and what the best brands are to use. I know i don't have the car yet, but i just want to see what im going to have to do if i buy a trans am ws6 that is not already lowered. I herd that strano lowering springs are the best? Is there any problems using isolators with the springs because when i lowered a cobra i used to have i came into problems using isolators because the car sat higher in the front than rear.
I do not have enough money to buy koni shocks and struts (which i know alot of people like). I am not looking for the car to be perfect but i do want to do it right. So with this being said what is the best/ cheapest rout i can take while lowering a 98-02 trans am. Also what are the best lowering springs to use? thanks
Old 02-20-2014, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by robbiejaegle
I am looking to purchase a 98-02 trans am ws6. What i am wondering is what all i will need to lower the car, and what the best brands are to use. I know i don't have the car yet, but i just want to see what im going to have to do if i buy a trans am ws6 that is not already lowered. I herd that strano lowering springs are the best? Is there any problems using isolators with the springs because when i lowered a cobra i used to have i came into problems using isolators because the car sat higher in the front than rear.
I do not have enough money to buy koni shocks and struts (which i know alot of people like). I am not looking for the car to be perfect but i do want to do it right. So with this being said what is the best/ cheapest rout i can take while lowering a 98-02 trans am. Also what are the best lowering springs to use? thanks
Dont apply what you know about the Cobra to theses cars, different suspension setup, we have coilovers in the front vs their strut setup, and a 3 link rear end vs a 4 link or IRS depending on the year.
You want to keep the isolators in the rear or you will have a reverse rake.

If you are looking for a true handling setup than the Koni SA's are about as cheap as you should go with shocks, and you would be better off just buying those and keeping the stock springs until you can afford lowering springs.
Otherwise if you just want the lowered look and dont care as much about performance or longevity of the shock you can get away with bilstien HDs, SLP Bilstiens, Koni STR's, or even KYB AGX's (worst out of the group), all around the $400 range.
The "best" off the shelf springs for handling are Stranos, proven track record no other vendor has touched.
The only other thing you "need" is an alignment in the front, you can get away with the stock panhard bar, but the rear end may be pushed over a bit. If you want to fix that you need to buy an aftermarket adjustable PHB or wattslink. You do not need anything else, don't let a vendor tell you that you "need" rear LCA relocation brackets, adjustable LCA's or an adjustable torque arm, you do not.
Old 02-20-2014, 06:09 PM
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I've used Bilstein revalves for 6 years and am happy with them. I didn't want to spend the extra money on konis because the car is just a weekend warrior and really never driven too hard. Shocks, springs and sway bars are the most important aspects of a well handling car. Beyond that things can have their place like LCAs, PHB etc but I agree....don't let the vendors on here talk you into all that stuff. Its really not necessary and their just throwing their sales pitch at you.
Old 02-20-2014, 06:13 PM
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What do u mean rear end may be pushed over a bit? And I was Jw beacuse I read that if I don't get the brackets il have bad wheel hop? And are the pan hard rods easy to adjust? And can I reuse the old isolators or should I get new ? Fronts have. Isolators too? Sorry for all the questions lol
Old 02-20-2014, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by robbiejaegle
What do u mean rear end may be pushed over a bit?
With a PHB rear suspension the PHB centers the rear under the car. If the length of the PHB is changed, the rear axle will not sit centered under the car. Likewise if the car is lowered, the PHB is now going to move the rear axle toward the drivers side of the car, or if the car was raised it would push it toward the passenger side of the car.


And I was Jw beacuse I read that if I don't get the brackets il have bad wheel hop?
Its a possibility, but relocation brackets may not solve wheel hop if you get it. They also hurt handling by changing the instant center of the rear, you can expect more understeer going into corners, and possibly snap oversteer comming out.

And are the pan hard rods easy to adjust?
Extremely easy if you get an "on car" adjustable. Install it, measure where the tires sit compared to the fenders, and adjust where needed by shortening or lengthening it while its still on the car.

And can I reuse the old isolators or should I get new ? Fronts have. Isolators too? Sorry for all the questions lol
Keep the old isolators in front (plastic piece) and rear (rubber piece), no need to replace them. You will likely need a new upper shock mount for the front, as they rust and corrode pretty easily.
Old 02-20-2014, 08:54 PM
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Yeah I seen I can get the upper strut mounts on ebay for like 65. Another question I seen on the strano performance web site they sell the slp bilstien( sorry if I miss spelled it) shock and strut combo for 3 somthing. I didn't see it.have a spring perch( I think that's what it's called ) anyways the thing the spring sits on while on the strut. My question is do I reuse the factory one or does it come with one?



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