2000 firebird dies while driving
06-14-2014, 11:04 PM
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2000 firebird dies while driving alright brand new to this site and i need some help.
2000 5.7 firebird 200k+ miles on it. laundry list of r+r done.
so the problem is my car dies while driving. ie no power no motor nuttin everything shuts off. this seemed to come out of the blue one day. i know that my a/c compressor is seized up and whenever i turn the air/heat on the car dies because the belts cant turn the compressor. however i think my problem is independent of this because i was driving it for a few months with a bad compressor and nothing was acting up. before i knew the compressor was the problem i took out the alternator to get it tested and the wire that goes into the clip at the back of the alternator came out. it is just soldered in there and kinda fell out. so i got a new clip with the wire already soldered in. i then soldered the new clip to the old wire. i dont think it was the best job ever but i braided them together and soldered them and wrapped the in electrical tape. good enough for me. didnt fix me problem. one thing i havent looked into is whenever i tighten the terminals onto my battery the positive breaks tourqe and becomes loose again.
2000 5.7 firebird 200k+ miles on it. laundry list of r+r done.
so the problem is my car dies while driving. ie no power no motor nuttin everything shuts off. this seemed to come out of the blue one day. i know that my a/c compressor is seized up and whenever i turn the air/heat on the car dies because the belts cant turn the compressor. however i think my problem is independent of this because i was driving it for a few months with a bad compressor and nothing was acting up. before i knew the compressor was the problem i took out the alternator to get it tested and the wire that goes into the clip at the back of the alternator came out. it is just soldered in there and kinda fell out. so i got a new clip with the wire already soldered in. i then soldered the new clip to the old wire. i dont think it was the best job ever but i braided them together and soldered them and wrapped the in electrical tape. good enough for me. didnt fix me problem. one thing i havent looked into is whenever i tighten the terminals onto my battery the positive breaks tourqe and becomes loose again.
06-15-2014, 07:43 AM
#2
Welcome to LS1tech!
When the engine shuts off, do all the power accessories stay on or do they shut off also? Radio, headlights, wipers, etc.
What does the volt gauge say during driving?
What do you do to get it running again? Does it start right up or do you need to wait a while?
What exactly do you me by saying "laundry list of r+r done"?
Capital letters at the start of sentences would make reading waay easier
When the engine shuts off, do all the power accessories stay on or do they shut off also? Radio, headlights, wipers, etc.
What does the volt gauge say during driving?
What do you do to get it running again? Does it start right up or do you need to wait a while?
What exactly do you me by saying "laundry list of r+r done"?
Capital letters at the start of sentences would make reading waay easier
06-15-2014, 02:32 PM
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Everything in the car shuts off radio, clock resets, headlights (which is a bit terrifying when you're going 90 at night). It would be the equivalent of disconnecting the battery.
While driving the battery voltage seems to gradually go down from about high 13 to low 13. The battery is brand new and i had it tested twice and it was good, however they said it needed to be charged both times. So something is draining it or the alternator isnt charging it. But the alternator is good too. And to start it up i have to wait a while and when it does start up it has a rough idle ie 300-400 rpms.
As for r+r water pump, power steering pump, spark plugs, wiring harness for the spark plugs, = a/c comp, clutch, valve cover gaskets, oil pan/gaskets, crankshaft seal, fuel injectors cleaned, camshaft position sensor, crankshaft position sensor, egr valve, alternator, battery, and i think thats it.
While driving the battery voltage seems to gradually go down from about high 13 to low 13. The battery is brand new and i had it tested twice and it was good, however they said it needed to be charged both times. So something is draining it or the alternator isnt charging it. But the alternator is good too. And to start it up i have to wait a while and when it does start up it has a rough idle ie 300-400 rpms.
As for r+r water pump, power steering pump, spark plugs, wiring harness for the spark plugs, = a/c comp, clutch, valve cover gaskets, oil pan/gaskets, crankshaft seal, fuel injectors cleaned, camshaft position sensor, crankshaft position sensor, egr valve, alternator, battery, and i think thats it.
06-15-2014, 03:51 PM
#4
[QUOTE=eroyce;18270272
While driving the battery voltage seems to gradually go down from about high 13 to low 13. [/QUOTE]
I wouldn't worry too much about that. Mine does the same exact thing and I have a brand new battery, new connector to the alternator and a 145amp Alternator. Never gives me any trouble.
While driving the battery voltage seems to gradually go down from about high 13 to low 13. [/QUOTE]
I wouldn't worry too much about that. Mine does the same exact thing and I have a brand new battery, new connector to the alternator and a 145amp Alternator. Never gives me any trouble.
06-15-2014, 09:49 PM
#5
OK, so the voltage doesn't drop to 11 volts then less so the alternator seems to be charging the battery-or at least, putting out proper voltage.
If I understand you correctly, when you've waited a bit and try to re-start it, it does so without a jump from a good car/battery and you hadn't charged the battery while waiting.
It sounds like you have a bad connection somewhere, there are several grounds to the engine as well as connections at the battery and the starter. My money is on one (or more) of them being the culprit.
If I understand you correctly, when you've waited a bit and try to re-start it, it does so without a jump from a good car/battery and you hadn't charged the battery while waiting.
It sounds like you have a bad connection somewhere, there are several grounds to the engine as well as connections at the battery and the starter. My money is on one (or more) of them being the culprit.
06-15-2014, 10:08 PM
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Ya the car starts without a jump or a charge it just needs like five minutes or so.
what would i be looking for on the grounds and connections? Corrosion or loose wires or something else?
what would i be looking for on the grounds and connections? Corrosion or loose wires or something else?
06-15-2014, 10:17 PM
#7
Start by checking the battery cables for good contact (clean, tight, some grease) and fraying where they go into the connectors. There's a heavy ground on the right (passenger) side of the engine block, from the battery.
More (smaller) grounds on the rear of the heads. One on the left of the engine near the power steering pump. One at the battery on the fender well.
More (smaller) grounds on the rear of the heads. One on the left of the engine near the power steering pump. One at the battery on the fender well.
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06-15-2014, 10:45 PM
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If the positive cable breaks torque and loosens up change the cable end if its top post or get a deeper screw if its side post. The system needs the cables to be on tight as each sensor reads in a set parameter of voltage. If they come loose while driving it will wreck havoc on the electrical system over time.
06-16-2014, 03:15 PM
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Alright checked the cables and the positive is pretty badly corroded. Its down to what looks like copper beneath the top layer of metal. Theres pitting on the terminal and the negative looks brand new. So would this be enough to cause the car to shut off? If so what do i need to do next order a new set of cables? And if i have to do that how difficult is it to replace the cables?
