Art Vandaley

iTrader: (33)

morning bump, don't want to have a winking bird help guys..

tomustang

If you have a multimeter or volt tester you can start by checking to see if there is any power going to the motor

Levman74

iTrader: (3)

i just keep having issues with mine, the motors would grind up and down, replaced them with brass gears, tightened up the housings, then they broke the stops, so i put metal in place of them. Now they get super-tense when they contact the stops, and now the right one is grinding again. sometimes they alternate going up or down left or right, im working out a deal to get the conversion headlights that don't pop-up, totally eliminate this problem.

TAGIRL99

I'm thinking about gettin the stationary headlights and avoiding the problem all together, they're sweet looking but a little on the expensive side

HGK

iTrader: (1)

I need two new actuator relays to get my popup lights to work,anyone that knows were i can get them and what they cost???
They are for a 82 Firebird,did GM use the same kind of relays on the Fiero???

nytmare1

iTrader: (7)

Just wanted to say thanks for all the previous headlight questions and answers.

Yesterday morning, my driver side headlight wouldn't flip up. The lights functioned, but no movement. I've had the chattering gear problem, so I knew my problem wasn't related to that.

I checked my headlamp control module and it appears to be fine with no corrosion. There was also an ample amount of juice leaving the module and arriving at the headlamp motor. I checked all the wires to be sure there wasn't a kink or a bare spot grounding it out. Nada. I then checked the little plastic tab that the metal arm rests up against when the headlamp is closed. There was a noticeable groove worn in the tab. I considered replacing it with the hose fix I read about, but then thought... "why don't I just flip the damn thing over?" I did, and it works fine again. So, if you still have the plastic tab, simply flip the damn thing over and you'll likely be good. I did the passenger side too just in case since it had a good groove in it too.

Thanks again for the assistance,
Marc

1 BAD BIRD

iTrader: (3)

I replaced mine about 3 months ago with the brass ones. Well I noticed one headlight was acting weird...slower and all. Well turns out my cover was working its way loose. My question is. What apoxy do you all use that will keep this thing on? I forget what I used but it was a two part kit. Anyone have any suggestions. The sucky thing is I took it up to get inspected for the year and they call me and said my headlight wasn't coming up duh so gotta get it fixed ASAP

Thanks guys.

BOb s

DrkPhx

iTrader: (15)

What cover are you referring to? You should of saved yourself the aggravation and just bought a new GM motor. I bought new one on Ebay for 87$ shipped.

OMGWTFBODY

iTrader: (5)

85 shipped for the two brass gears.

Jeresous

I'd rather buy a brass gear then a new GM motor. A new gear in an old motor is prob more reliable then a new motor, the plastic gears they use suck.

blackpontiac

Yeah, good problem. I replaced my left one with a brass one... same cover problem. Tried a few different epoxies. the regular 2 part, and the plastic 2 part. neither lasted long. the plastic stuff did better, although i could have done it a little better.

haha, I settled with a peice of wood jammed between the cover and that area of frame that makes it a PITA to take off the motor... its outlasted everything... ghetto, but works! Mines not a show car.

Charlie Hustle

iTrader: (8)

I havent been able to find anyone else on here with the same problem. Every time I turn the headlights on, they will pop up 100% of the time. The problem is that they only go down maybe one out of every 50 trys, and Im not exagerating the number. I usually have to manualy put them down at night, so I wont have to deal with it in the daytime the next day. Now heres my question, if they gears were stripped, would the headlights still go up every single time? Also, if the gears were stripped, would I be able to manualy put the lights down? Just FYI Ive never had the loud grinding noise issue. Any suggestions? Im at the point where Im about to buy 2 new motors from ebay.

kliuzzo

im having the same problem...my pass side goes up and down whenever it feels like....it usually goes down by itself and i usually put the pass side up manually..sometimes the pass. side comes down half way...no grinding at all...there is power going to it so i have no idea what the problem is..

My94TransAm

I have a question about rotating the raise/lower manual ****. Do you just rotate the round **** on top 180 degrees, or do make that **** rotate the whole gear assymbly 180 degrees?

Danny2tek

iTrader: (1)

You rotate the **** until you see gear do a 180 rotation.

JayBirdWs6

iTrader: (1)

Mine just started doing that crap. GOD DAM! (sorry god) that grinding noise is loud and embrassing. Went to a car show this past sunday and I didnt want to hit the lock button on the remote because of it so for the first time I locked them the old fashion way it felt weird. Whats a new motor cost?

Wow! Yearone has them for 166.00. Is that price alittle high?

JayBirdWs6

iTrader: (1)

Got a ACdelco GM motor brand new off ebay for 122.00 put it in this evening and were back in business. Now my drivers side comes up just a hair slower then my passenger side now.

UNmolestedTA

Thanks for making a sticky about this subject because I would have taken my car to the dealership and spent way too much money! Is it really important to use the epoxy to reseal the motor and what will happen if I do not use the epoxy?

Thanks,
Mike

RevGTO

iTrader: (12)

The housing will come apart. You really have to slather the epoxy on thick.

'Trust'

iTrader: (24)

If you dont use epoxy (sometimes it wont even hold) the housing will open up and the gear will pop out and it can get stripped again. The best way is to use tiny screws to hold the housing together, it NEEDS to be sealed one way or the other.