Who can help me understand factory RAM AIR???
#1
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Who can help me understand factory RAM AIR???
I've been reading about the factory Ram Air and all the different mods & aftermarket parts that can be bought.
I'd like to keep my car stock because of its limited numbers.
But I'm all for getting some more performance out of it. If it's something that I can easily return to it's stock form.
Will the SLP lid do me any good? I've read mixed reviews on the smooth bellows?
Chris1313 ram air looks like it works. But I don't want to cut & bend stuff to install it...
JAAM ram air from the WS6 store?
I've read about guys removing the baffles from the factory ram air?
Right now mine is completely stock minus a K&N filter.
Can anyone give me some advise? Thanks.
I'd like to keep my car stock because of its limited numbers.
But I'm all for getting some more performance out of it. If it's something that I can easily return to it's stock form.
Will the SLP lid do me any good? I've read mixed reviews on the smooth bellows?
Chris1313 ram air looks like it works. But I don't want to cut & bend stuff to install it...
JAAM ram air from the WS6 store?
I've read about guys removing the baffles from the factory ram air?
Right now mine is completely stock minus a K&N filter.
Can anyone give me some advise? Thanks.
#2
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The SLP lid is an excellent upgrade that can be easily reversed with no side-effects and will usually offer gains of 7-10rwhp, or even more for cars with internal engine upgrades. This modification applies to "ram air" and non-ram air cars alike.
The smooth bellow is a waste of money IMO, unless you just like how it looks.
Some of the aftermarket ram air kits show good results, but to the best of my knowledge all of the current ones on the market are designed to route the air from under the car (for use on cars that didn't originally have a "ram air" hood), thus disabling the purpose of your stock hood.
Many years ago there was a guy named Brian Greene who made an extremely high quality kit to turn the stock ram air hood into an actual ram air setup. This kit did require you to delete the factory baffles inside the hood, but once installed it appeared and fit like OE stock. This kit has been out of production for many years, but if you can find one of these used, it would be my first choice for any original ram air hood.
If you don't want to permanently modify anything at all, and want 100% reverseable bolt-on performance, then you can do the air lid at any time. It will also work just the same should you decide to install some sort of ram air kit later.
The smooth bellow is a waste of money IMO, unless you just like how it looks.
Some of the aftermarket ram air kits show good results, but to the best of my knowledge all of the current ones on the market are designed to route the air from under the car (for use on cars that didn't originally have a "ram air" hood), thus disabling the purpose of your stock hood.
Many years ago there was a guy named Brian Greene who made an extremely high quality kit to turn the stock ram air hood into an actual ram air setup. This kit did require you to delete the factory baffles inside the hood, but once installed it appeared and fit like OE stock. This kit has been out of production for many years, but if you can find one of these used, it would be my first choice for any original ram air hood.
If you don't want to permanently modify anything at all, and want 100% reverseable bolt-on performance, then you can do the air lid at any time. It will also work just the same should you decide to install some sort of ram air kit later.
#3
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I'm not a WS6 owner but I'd think the JAAM kit would be my first choice. Looks really nice and the price isn't bad. Install looks easy too. Whatever you decide don't bother with the K&N FIPK. It's a waste of money.
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#4
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As you go through this process, you'll want to remember that 1+1 doesn't always = 2. All these little things claim "5%-10%" horsepower increases, but when all done together; there are diminishing returns.
For example: some Ram Air kit makers claim the 5%-10% hp gain after testing their kits. But... they also mention that their kits were installed with a K&N filter. K&N claims a 5%-10% hp gain - so maybe the ram air kit did nothing??? (You certainly won't get a 10%-20% hp gain out of the mix.) Maybe the claims of both companies are false and each is really contributing a 2.5%-5% hp gain to the party? (As you keep adding these %5-10% mods on top of each other, they start becoming .5%-1% returns because the benefits are not additive.)
The other thing is that I'm not sure you'd notice a 5% hp gain on a 320 hp engine unless you are racing it. There's also no free lunch here. The baffles were put in for a reason and the air flow through the engine compartment does effect the handling of the car. So, personally, I'm not sure if the extra risk is worth the gain on this type of thing. (unless you race the car)
You can always switch out mechanical parts and keep the originals (headers, etc.) for a future collector.
Again, I'm not sure of the power gains, but this kit removes the resonator. That changes the sound of the exhaust/engine and will at least make the car sound faster to the folks you drive by. I am actually looking forward to getting this kit when I'm ready to say goodbye to my resonator. (Hopefully that's coming soon.)
If you really want to gain hp, you can do the famous wssis99 paper filter mod. It's regularly $49.99, but I'll give it to you free, right here! All you do is throw away the K&N air filter/engine damager and put in a stock paper filter.
In this particular car, the K&N works against us in the power department. It sheds off oil over time and contaminates the MAF sensor. This causes the car to run lean and robs you of power - to the point that the car will totally bog down under acceleration when things get really bad.
I hated my car as it got soggy due to the K&N filter I installed - to the point I was going to sell the car just before I developed the famous bogging problem. (Then I couldn't sell the car, at that point.) Once I put the paper back in, (and cleaned my MAF) all was well and just like new. ... and we've lived happily ever after.
For example: some Ram Air kit makers claim the 5%-10% hp gain after testing their kits. But... they also mention that their kits were installed with a K&N filter. K&N claims a 5%-10% hp gain - so maybe the ram air kit did nothing??? (You certainly won't get a 10%-20% hp gain out of the mix.) Maybe the claims of both companies are false and each is really contributing a 2.5%-5% hp gain to the party? (As you keep adding these %5-10% mods on top of each other, they start becoming .5%-1% returns because the benefits are not additive.)
The other thing is that I'm not sure you'd notice a 5% hp gain on a 320 hp engine unless you are racing it. There's also no free lunch here. The baffles were put in for a reason and the air flow through the engine compartment does effect the handling of the car. So, personally, I'm not sure if the extra risk is worth the gain on this type of thing. (unless you race the car)
Again, I'm not sure of the power gains, but this kit removes the resonator. That changes the sound of the exhaust/engine and will at least make the car sound faster to the folks you drive by. I am actually looking forward to getting this kit when I'm ready to say goodbye to my resonator. (Hopefully that's coming soon.)
If you really want to gain hp, you can do the famous wssis99 paper filter mod. It's regularly $49.99, but I'll give it to you free, right here! All you do is throw away the K&N air filter/engine damager and put in a stock paper filter.
In this particular car, the K&N works against us in the power department. It sheds off oil over time and contaminates the MAF sensor. This causes the car to run lean and robs you of power - to the point that the car will totally bog down under acceleration when things get really bad.
I hated my car as it got soggy due to the K&N filter I installed - to the point I was going to sell the car just before I developed the famous bogging problem. (Then I couldn't sell the car, at that point.) Once I put the paper back in, (and cleaned my MAF) all was well and just like new. ... and we've lived happily ever after.
#5
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I have a modded Duramax truck and I know that oiled air filters are no good for those engines for the same reason. I have some MAF cleaner, I could clean the one on my car. I bought it with the K&N filter already in there.
#6
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I have an SLP lid that was going up in the classifieds in the next week or so, small crack in the bottom of the neck from a previous owner not heating it up before shoving the MAF in, but that's easy to seal up.
Just FYI
Just FYI
#7
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I've been reading about the factory Ram Air and all the different mods & aftermarket parts that can be bought.
I'd like to keep my car stock because of its limited numbers.
But I'm all for getting some more performance out of it. If it's something that I can easily return to it's stock form.
Will the SLP lid do me any good? I've read mixed reviews on the smooth bellows?
Chris1313 ram air looks like it works. But I don't want to cut & bend stuff to install it...
JAAM ram air from the WS6 store?
I've read about guys removing the baffles from the factory ram air?
Right now mine is completely stock minus a K&N filter.
Can anyone give me some advise? Thanks.
I'd like to keep my car stock because of its limited numbers.
But I'm all for getting some more performance out of it. If it's something that I can easily return to it's stock form.
Will the SLP lid do me any good? I've read mixed reviews on the smooth bellows?
Chris1313 ram air looks like it works. But I don't want to cut & bend stuff to install it...
JAAM ram air from the WS6 store?
I've read about guys removing the baffles from the factory ram air?
Right now mine is completely stock minus a K&N filter.
Can anyone give me some advise? Thanks.
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#9
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But people with the chrs1313 ram air have gotten amazing results:
I dont post a lot about different products, but this one WORKS! I added it to my 01 SS and couldnt believe the difference .My improvements are not the norm as I went from a Stock airbox and MTI lid to the Chris1313 set up on a 416 cu in motor but the difference was remarkable. First pass off the trailer was 7 mph faster than previous best this was in worse air. No changes to the tune as of yet this is a SD tune. I highly recommend the Chris 1313 Ramair setup.
#12
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The simplest way is to knock out the baffles and apply foam weatherstripping around the perimeter of the hood opening. This will make for a good seal (as can be verified by removing the hood scoop grilles).
But once you take out the baffles it will never be stock again. This mod is pretty much irreversible. Case in point: I found a used Brian Greene kit and bought it because they had already become so rare - even though I didn't have a WS6 car. We were going to install it on my brother's stock WS6, but at the last moment he chickened out, because it's only stock once.
We later installed it on another friend's car. It made a huge difference in his IAT's at the track.
But once you take out the baffles it will never be stock again. This mod is pretty much irreversible. Case in point: I found a used Brian Greene kit and bought it because they had already become so rare - even though I didn't have a WS6 car. We were going to install it on my brother's stock WS6, but at the last moment he chickened out, because it's only stock once.
We later installed it on another friend's car. It made a huge difference in his IAT's at the track.
#14
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I don't think its a radical thing to do.
But my car is 100% stock and could be a sought after collector car down the road.......
I just have to decide if I wanna start modifying things in order to get some more power, or leave it stock..... ?
But my car is 100% stock and could be a sought after collector car down the road.......
I just have to decide if I wanna start modifying things in order to get some more power, or leave it stock..... ?
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Having said that, how many miles are on the car? They are still relatively modern, so mileage would have to be ultra low for there to be any collector interest in the foreseeable future.
IMO, the only reason to keep a car 100% assembly line stock is if you get some sort of personal pleasure out of having a perfect, original car. I wouldn't recommend doing this solely out of concern for future buyers since there is no guaranty that any of these cars will be investment grade collector's items. I paid just under $30k for a brand new WS6 car back in July of 2000, and even if I had never driven that car at all it still wouldn't be worth original MSRP, especially with inflation factored in.
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Based on your Avatar, I assume this is a 30th Anniversary car? I think most people are kidding themselves about the likelihood of their LS1 F-body becoming a "collector's car" down the road, but the 30th Anniversary cars might in fact be an exception.
Having said that, how many miles are on the car? They are still relatively modern, so mileage would have to be ultra low for there to be any collector interest in the foreseeable future.
IMO, the only reason to keep a car 100% assembly line stock is if you get some sort of personal pleasure out of having a perfect, original car. I wouldn't recommend doing this solely out of concern for future buyers since there is no guaranty that any of these cars will be investment grade collector's items. I paid just under $30k for a brand new WS6 car back in July of 2000, and even if I had never driven that car at all it still wouldn't be worth original MSRP, especially with inflation factored in.
Having said that, how many miles are on the car? They are still relatively modern, so mileage would have to be ultra low for there to be any collector interest in the foreseeable future.
IMO, the only reason to keep a car 100% assembly line stock is if you get some sort of personal pleasure out of having a perfect, original car. I wouldn't recommend doing this solely out of concern for future buyers since there is no guaranty that any of these cars will be investment grade collector's items. I paid just under $30k for a brand new WS6 car back in July of 2000, and even if I had never driven that car at all it still wouldn't be worth original MSRP, especially with inflation factored in.
I bought a few weeks ago with 16 600KM / 10 283 miles on the clock.
Last edited by Bird Lightning 2.0; 04-14-2015 at 09:24 PM.
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I'm torn right now...
The angel on my shoulder (common sense) is telling me to leave it stock.
And the Devil on my shoulder ( Horsepower junkie) is telling me to go for it.
Full exhaust, air intake, cam, tune etc......
The angel on my shoulder (common sense) is telling me to leave it stock.
And the Devil on my shoulder ( Horsepower junkie) is telling me to go for it.
Full exhaust, air intake, cam, tune etc......
#20
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Let me add another one on your shoulder.
The old exhaust can be unbolted and saved for later.
The old intake can be unbolted and saved for later.
The cam can be removed and saved for later.
The tune can be re-flashed to stock at any time.
SOLD
... now, if you wrap the car around a telephone pole having some fun after all this...
BTW - You probably still have the DeCarbon shocks on that thing, eigh? Those DEFINITELY need to go and still can't be good. You can save those too and use them as bookshelves until you sell to a collector.
The old exhaust can be unbolted and saved for later.
The old intake can be unbolted and saved for later.
The cam can be removed and saved for later.
The tune can be re-flashed to stock at any time.
SOLD
... now, if you wrap the car around a telephone pole having some fun after all this...
BTW - You probably still have the DeCarbon shocks on that thing, eigh? Those DEFINITELY need to go and still can't be good. You can save those too and use them as bookshelves until you sell to a collector.