2002 ws6 do and donts
04-27-2015, 07:37 PM
#1
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2002 ws6 do and donts New to site,
Currently got the 315s on the back.
This year and model already has ls6 intake and I hear it's pretty darn good for the engine.
Header and y pipe set up that's not too expensive? Obviously ground clearance is an issue. Anybody find a good set up that's not too much?
Slp Flo pac kit and jaam air kit compatible together?
And then finally
I cannot find a cam set up for this car that has jumped out at me or been recommended enough to notice one in particular. I just want to wake up the motor, I don't need a full blown timing chain lifters springs and everything. Is there a cam swap out there that just literally swaps the cam only?
Thanks to all and anyone who can shed some light on this thanks.
Currently got the 315s on the back.
This year and model already has ls6 intake and I hear it's pretty darn good for the engine.
Header and y pipe set up that's not too expensive? Obviously ground clearance is an issue. Anybody find a good set up that's not too much?
Slp Flo pac kit and jaam air kit compatible together?
And then finally
I cannot find a cam set up for this car that has jumped out at me or been recommended enough to notice one in particular. I just want to wake up the motor, I don't need a full blown timing chain lifters springs and everything. Is there a cam swap out there that just literally swaps the cam only?
Thanks to all and anyone who can shed some light on this thanks.
04-28-2015, 08:51 AM
#2
Speed engineering has a nice header system with a y pipe for $379, thats about as cheap as you're going to get . That is the price for the 1-7/8 primaries on the headers dont waste your time with the 1-3/4 the larger primaries will make more power everywhere even on a stock motor and especially on a larger one.
For an exhaust a good 3" catback would be fine for bolt ons or you can ditch the y pip on the headers cutting the price down and put that towards a set of true duals.
I speak for a lot on here when I say the only thing good from SLP is their lids, everything else largely under-performs or performs the same as other parts for a much higher price. A magnaflow catback is all stainless, has good performance and is around 400 new.
If you're looing for a ram air that will actually provide noticeable gains go check out the SSRA or CHRIS1313 ac version.
And no any time you swap the cam you need to upgrade certain things. The springs on the ls1 are adequate for the stock cam only. At a min to do a cam swap correctly you'll need Springs, Pushrods, Cam, gaskets, fluids, dyno tune, and preferably an oil pump and a new timing chain. In parts plan for at least 1000 then another 500 for a tune.
If that's too much for now then I recommend just doing the bolt ons first and see where you stand.
For an exhaust a good 3" catback would be fine for bolt ons or you can ditch the y pip on the headers cutting the price down and put that towards a set of true duals.
I speak for a lot on here when I say the only thing good from SLP is their lids, everything else largely under-performs or performs the same as other parts for a much higher price. A magnaflow catback is all stainless, has good performance and is around 400 new.
If you're looing for a ram air that will actually provide noticeable gains go check out the SSRA or CHRIS1313 ac version.
And no any time you swap the cam you need to upgrade certain things. The springs on the ls1 are adequate for the stock cam only. At a min to do a cam swap correctly you'll need Springs, Pushrods, Cam, gaskets, fluids, dyno tune, and preferably an oil pump and a new timing chain. In parts plan for at least 1000 then another 500 for a tune.
If that's too much for now then I recommend just doing the bolt ons first and see where you stand.
04-28-2015, 09:27 AM
#3
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Speed engineering has a nice header system with a y pipe for $379, thats about as cheap as you're going to get . That is the price for the 1-7/8 primaries on the headers dont waste your time with the 1-3/4 the larger primaries will make more power everywhere even on a stock motor and especially on a larger one.
For an exhaust a good 3" catback would be fine for bolt ons or you can ditch the y pip on the headers cutting the price down and put that towards a set of true duals.
I speak for a lot on here when I say the only thing good from SLP is their lids, everything else largely under-performs or performs the same as other parts for a much higher price. A magnaflow catback is all stainless, has good performance and is around 400 new.
If you're looing for a ram air that will actually provide noticeable gains go check out the SSRA or CHRIS1313 ac version.
And no any time you swap the cam you need to upgrade certain things. The springs on the ls1 are adequate for the stock cam only. At a min to do a cam swap correctly you'll need Springs, Pushrods, Cam, gaskets, fluids, dyno tune, and preferably an oil pump and a new timing chain. In parts plan for at least 1000 then another 500 for a tune.
If that's too much for now then I recommend just doing the bolt ons first and see where you stand.
For an exhaust a good 3" catback would be fine for bolt ons or you can ditch the y pip on the headers cutting the price down and put that towards a set of true duals.
I speak for a lot on here when I say the only thing good from SLP is their lids, everything else largely under-performs or performs the same as other parts for a much higher price. A magnaflow catback is all stainless, has good performance and is around 400 new.
If you're looing for a ram air that will actually provide noticeable gains go check out the SSRA or CHRIS1313 ac version.
And no any time you swap the cam you need to upgrade certain things. The springs on the ls1 are adequate for the stock cam only. At a min to do a cam swap correctly you'll need Springs, Pushrods, Cam, gaskets, fluids, dyno tune, and preferably an oil pump and a new timing chain. In parts plan for at least 1000 then another 500 for a tune.
If that's too much for now then I recommend just doing the bolt ons first and see where you stand.
Cheers
04-28-2015, 06:58 PM
#7
Just do a search and you'll learn all about them.
No reason to do this unless you race. Gaining a fraction of a hp for the maintenance, grief, and damage that the air filters cause doesn't seem to pay off on a normal car. BTW - I don't believe that people can "feel" the difference one bit. (Unless the feeling comes from driving with a thinner wallet padding ones butt.)
No reason to do this unless you race. Gaining a fraction of a hp for the maintenance, grief, and damage that the air filters cause doesn't seem to pay off on a normal car. BTW - I don't believe that people can "feel" the difference one bit. (Unless the feeling comes from driving with a thinner wallet padding ones butt.)
Trending Topics
04-29-2015, 12:48 PM
#8
Just do a search and you'll learn all about them.
No reason to do this unless you race. Gaining a fraction of a hp for the maintenance, grief, and damage that the air filters cause doesn't seem to pay off on a normal car. BTW - I don't believe that people can "feel" the difference one bit. (Unless the feeling comes from driving with a thinner wallet padding ones butt.)
No reason to do this unless you race. Gaining a fraction of a hp for the maintenance, grief, and damage that the air filters cause doesn't seem to pay off on a normal car. BTW - I don't believe that people can "feel" the difference one bit. (Unless the feeling comes from driving with a thinner wallet padding ones butt.)
04-29-2015, 01:27 PM
#10
TECH Fanatic
The main issue with K & N air filters is user caused, people simply over oil them. When you first pull the brand new filter out of the box it has this nice orange color throughout.
So when people clean the filter they spray enough oil on it to make it look like it just came out of the box. That is way too much oil. Right before the new filter is boxed at the factory a thin application of oil is sprayed on. Then after a few days or weeks in the box that oil migrates through the rest of the batting resulting in the orange color. A light spray on the air intake side and none on the MAF side is the way to do it. But everyone wants a completely orange filter and that is too much oil. The amount of oil that looks right is usually too much.
If you regularly clean your K & N, say 3 times per year, and watch and clean your MAF sensor wires, a K & N can work just fine.
Just my input, not wanting to start a debate. This subject can turn into one of those "what oil should I use?" discussions.
So when people clean the filter they spray enough oil on it to make it look like it just came out of the box. That is way too much oil. Right before the new filter is boxed at the factory a thin application of oil is sprayed on. Then after a few days or weeks in the box that oil migrates through the rest of the batting resulting in the orange color. A light spray on the air intake side and none on the MAF side is the way to do it. But everyone wants a completely orange filter and that is too much oil. The amount of oil that looks right is usually too much.
If you regularly clean your K & N, say 3 times per year, and watch and clean your MAF sensor wires, a K & N can work just fine.
Just my input, not wanting to start a debate. This subject can turn into one of those "what oil should I use?" discussions.
04-29-2015, 01:55 PM
#11
The main issue with K & N air filters is user caused, people simply over oil them. When you first pull the brand new filter out of the box it has this nice orange color throughout.
So when people clean the filter they spray enough oil on it to make it look like it just came out of the box. That is way too much oil. Right before the new filter is boxed at the factory a thin application of oil is sprayed on. Then after a few days or weeks in the box that oil migrates through the rest of the batting resulting in the orange color. A light spray on the air intake side and none on the MAF side is the way to do it. But everyone wants a completely orange filter and that is too much oil. The amount of oil that looks right is usually too much.
If you regularly clean your K & N, say 3 times per year, and watch and clean your MAF sensor wires, a K & N can work just fine.
Just my input, not wanting to start a debate. This subject can turn into one of those "what oil should I use?" discussions.
So when people clean the filter they spray enough oil on it to make it look like it just came out of the box. That is way too much oil. Right before the new filter is boxed at the factory a thin application of oil is sprayed on. Then after a few days or weeks in the box that oil migrates through the rest of the batting resulting in the orange color. A light spray on the air intake side and none on the MAF side is the way to do it. But everyone wants a completely orange filter and that is too much oil. The amount of oil that looks right is usually too much.
If you regularly clean your K & N, say 3 times per year, and watch and clean your MAF sensor wires, a K & N can work just fine.
Just my input, not wanting to start a debate. This subject can turn into one of those "what oil should I use?" discussions.
04-29-2015, 06:28 PM
#13
I don't hate them. (I hate prostate exams.) For K&N, I merely have a strong dislike and distrust for them. It would be one thing if they shut up about this problem or at least acknowledged the issue. The fact that they are trying to cover up the issue (and NOT honor their warranty) makes them a fair target for disdain. (http://www.knfilters.com/MAF/massair.htm)
If I was in a situation where buying an oiled air filter was appropriate, I'd choose any other brand over K&N. (AEM, Green, etc.)
They will tell us anything so we'll compliantly lay back so they can shoot their oily wad in our faces. (Or our engines, anyway.)
That being said, I'm sure ambient conditions have something to do with the severity of this. The oil should shed easier in hot environments and I'd also think that it would be more prone to foul the MAF faster when its cold and the oil is stickier.
04-29-2015, 08:21 PM
#14
I don't hate them. (I hate prostate exams.) For K&N, I merely have a strong dislike and distrust for them. It would be one thing if they shut up about this problem or at least acknowledged the issue. The fact that they are trying to cover up the issue (and NOT honor their warranty) makes them a fair target for disdain. (http://www.knfilters.com/MAF/massair.htm)
If I was in a situation where buying an oiled air filter was appropriate, I'd choose any other brand over K&N. (AEM, Green, etc.)
This is what K&N would have us believe and what they sprinkle their Kool-Aid with. According to GM, many other members, and my personal experience - the filters foul the MAF right out of the box.
They will tell us anything so we'll compliantly lay back so they can shoot their oily wad in our faces. (Or our engines, anyway.)
That being said, I'm sure ambient conditions have something to do with the severity of this. The oil should shed easier in hot environments and I'd also think that it would be more prone to foul the MAF faster when its cold and the oil is stickier.
That meme gave me a good laugh, heard yodas voice as i read it.