luilui

Hey guys. So i got my TSP 1 7/8 headers and TSP catted Y pipe to a SLP loudmouth, Volant CAI, and BMR bolt on subframe connectors. Im slowly building this car up to my target of 450 RWHP. Not trying to throw lots of money at it at once so I'm looking for recommendations on a good performing cam that won't break the bank, any recommendations? Headers will be added at a later time.

If anyone has dyno numbers before and after their cam install please share, thanks!

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

What trans and gear do you have?

luilui

Its an auto with a stock rear end, but I plan on changing out the gears to 3:73's. Still want to keep it driveable for my weekend drives.

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

Lots of choices when it comes to cams, but you'll definitely want to do a stall when doing so. With that said try contacting places like Tick Performance or Texas Speed and whatnot. If you want 450 rwhp down the road you'll want something moderately aggressive when it comes to cams

luilui

I was going to have a shop do the mods to get me 450 at the rear wheels, but when I saw the quote I quickly said I'll do it myself!

Job #1 Install Labor
Part 199-LSC1-AsCast225 PRC As-Cast 225cc Cathedral Heads 1.00 1,799.99 1,799.99
Part HEROLD-CKP Herold Stage 3 Performance Camshaft Kit (Premium) 1.00 1,599.99 1,599.99
Part LS1F-01178300LSWC 2000-2002 F-Body ARH 1 7/8" Headers with Cats 1.00 1,612.88 1,612.88
Part 01-13-04 GM 245mm Pro III 4L60 LS Torque Converter 1.00 1,200.00 1,200.00
Labor f100 Work Requested - Install Labor 28.00 120.00 3,360.00
Work Performed - Install Premium Camshaft Package(16hrs)
-Camshaft
-Dual Valve Springs
-COMP Cam Pushrods
-Ported Oil Pump
-C5R Timing Chain
-Morel Hydraulic Lifters
-ARP Head Bolts
-ARP Crank Bolts
Install PRC Cylinder Heads (swapping over valves) (2hrs)
Install Long Tube Headers (4hrs)
Install Torque Converter (6hrs)
Misc SPL Work Requested - Shop supplies per hour 30.00 2.25 67.50
Misc 456 Work Requested - Synthetic Oil Change+Filter 1.00 100.00 100.00
Misc 124 Work Requested - Antifreeze 1.00 35.00 35.00
Misc DSP Work Requested - Hazardous waste disposal 1.00 3.00 3.00
Misc DYNO Work Requested - Custom Dyno Tune 1.00 600.00 600.00
test
Job Total: $10,894.17

Rise of the Phoenix

iTrader: (27)

If I were you, I'd go turbo and don't look back.

JosephIV

iTrader: (14)

Save your money and get a Strange S60 or somebody's 9 inch rear first if you don't already have one. Ending up with over 450 RWHP while lacking the ability to hook the power sucks. It doesn't sound as cool to have a stock idle and a built rear but building your car from the ground up to handle 450 RWHP is the right way to do it. I wish my former car got built that way as a stick shift Heads/Cam/Nitrous car would have been more fun if I'd had the S60 first instead of babying the S10 sized 10 bolt. Hell, it didn't get a rear until months before selling the car.


It's more cost effective to spend $660 on a plate nitrous setup than to do heads (costing over $1,200) and cam (around $400 uninstalled) if you want power. Won't sound as cool, but you're not going to add 150 RWHP with a $400 camshaft or by adding $1,500 heads.

You can buy a 3.89 geared 9 inch for around $2,500, a $349 FTI converter, and a Nitrous Outlet plate kit for $660. Add a pair of Hoosier 275/40r17 DOT drag radials for $460 and you'll be a lot quicker than heads/cam.

You can have fun on nitrous for a long time and still sell the whole setup for $400 or possibly more should you go turbo or blower down the road and you'll already have the rear to handle 600 RWHP.

There aren't too many things as lame as not dead hooking your kick *** car because the 10 bolt is living on borrowed time. Been there, done that.

luilui

Im not too familiar with nitrous setups, but ill do some research on it.