panhard bar install (non adjustable) questions
04-11-2016, 09:04 AM
#1
panhard bar install (non adjustable) questions I received tubular LCA's and non-adjustable panhard bar (tubular) as a gift.
I plan on doing the panhard bar this weekend. I have an '02 Bird with no suspension mods done to date, and don't plan on ever lowering the vehicle.
are there any tips for the panhard install? keep in mind its non-adjustable.
are the mounting bolts typically rusted?
will there need to be prying and pushing to get things back together?
how to support car while in the air? jack stands on the axles?
while its in the air i plan on replacing the diff. fluid and installing a new cover. that I know I can do
i look forward to your assistance.
thank you
I plan on doing the panhard bar this weekend. I have an '02 Bird with no suspension mods done to date, and don't plan on ever lowering the vehicle.
are there any tips for the panhard install? keep in mind its non-adjustable.
are the mounting bolts typically rusted?
will there need to be prying and pushing to get things back together?
how to support car while in the air? jack stands on the axles?
while its in the air i plan on replacing the diff. fluid and installing a new cover. that I know I can do
i look forward to your assistance.
thank you
04-11-2016, 09:30 AM
#2
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iTrader: (14)
Poly ended or rotojoints?
you can do it either way but if you do it by lifting the car by the body, be sure and support the rear end when you start to disconnect the lca's and panhard as it will droop a little bit more with these items disconnected. Now if you lift the car by the rear end still support the body as well, but this will be easier to line everything up when you reinstall stuff.
I would also do tighten everything up with the car on the ground in its neutral position especially for poly joints. If you tighten it all the way down with the suspension at full droop you can actually preload the joints and the car may not set level when you put it back on the ground.
you can do it either way but if you do it by lifting the car by the body, be sure and support the rear end when you start to disconnect the lca's and panhard as it will droop a little bit more with these items disconnected. Now if you lift the car by the rear end still support the body as well, but this will be easier to line everything up when you reinstall stuff.
I would also do tighten everything up with the car on the ground in its neutral position especially for poly joints. If you tighten it all the way down with the suspension at full droop you can actually preload the joints and the car may not set level when you put it back on the ground.
04-11-2016, 09:35 AM
#3
polyends
sounds good. I'll support the rear end with the floor jack and keep the stands on the body.
so, snug everything (i'm only doing panhard for now) and final tighten to specs while on the ground - correct?
are the bolt accessible while the car is on the ground??
id he car is resting on jack stands on the AXLE, is that the same as being preloaded?
sounds good. I'll support the rear end with the floor jack and keep the stands on the body.
so, snug everything (i'm only doing panhard for now) and final tighten to specs while on the ground - correct?
are the bolt accessible while the car is on the ground??
id he car is resting on jack stands on the AXLE, is that the same as being preloaded?
04-11-2016, 01:16 PM
#4
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (14)
yep for poly I would suggest snugging it all up with the suspension loaded.
depending on your build you should be able to reach the upper and lower mount for the PHB the upper maybe a bit tougher.
Technically yes the having the rear on jackstands (supporting the axle) is the same as the weight of the car is still on your suspension rather than it all being unsprung. This method would be fine for the PHB install as it only affects how the axle moves left to right under the car. I wouldnt advise the same for the LCA's. as its possible for the axle to rotate a bit in the position which could shift the mounting points a bit which could make it a bit more difficult to lineup if the axle were to shift a bit. but the LCA mounts are definitely accessible with the car on the ground.
depending on your build you should be able to reach the upper and lower mount for the PHB the upper maybe a bit tougher.
Technically yes the having the rear on jackstands (supporting the axle) is the same as the weight of the car is still on your suspension rather than it all being unsprung. This method would be fine for the PHB install as it only affects how the axle moves left to right under the car. I wouldnt advise the same for the LCA's. as its possible for the axle to rotate a bit in the position which could shift the mounting points a bit which could make it a bit more difficult to lineup if the axle were to shift a bit. but the LCA mounts are definitely accessible with the car on the ground.
04-11-2016, 09:34 PM
#5
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when I swapped mine (I installed an adjustable) I had the passenger rear jacked up with the wheel off on that corner and the other rear tire still on the ground. Having that tire out of the way made it easy to get to the upper bolt (and I already had it off for installing the control arm anyway). I had to adjust the length of the bar to get the holes to line up so you may need some slight prying to get the bolts in overall, it was the second easiest suspension part install I've ever done (easiest being replacing the rear shocks on my 03 Trailblazer that entailed backing the truck up onto ramps and unbolting the part.