dsvtr

iTrader: (2)

Good Morning,
So I am in a bit of a quandry, in that ...... I Have a set of the Eibach Sportlines Springs, but from what I have heard, I am pretty much " Gauranteed " to scrape with these on my TA

So this got me thinking ..... Maybe get a set of Springs that doesn't lower as much as the Sportlines ( such as the BMR springs ) and just get Bigger sized tires to feel in the Gap Between the Tires and the Fenders ....... Such as a set of 19x10 in the Rear and a 18x8.5 in the Front ?

I want to lower the Car for Sure, but knowing that I'm almost certain to scrape the Headers and even Exhaust is a bit frightening lol

Thoughts and recommendations welcome

Thanks everyone

StealthFormula

iTrader: (35)

I own four vehicles all of which I've lowered, some are lowered more than others so I've experienced the pros and cons.

My WS6 is lowered on coilovers and is probably similar in ride height to the sportlines if I had to guess and it literally has the best stance of just about any 4th gen I've ever seen. But...I have to be very careful going down the road, I have nailed my long tubes on man hole covers, scrape my air damn and occasionally my front bumper entering and exiting driveways and have scraped my true duals more times than I can count. It's not terrible when driving solo but once I have a passenger it all goes to hell. It can be a bit unnerving at times, I literally cringe going down the highway when the road raises a bit for bridges etc., speed bumps must be taken at a snails pace. It gets real annoying having to constantly watch the road ahead for obstacles and lift my *** off the seat when I see something coming because I know I'm about to bang a header which is a horrible feeling and sound.

My daily driver and my Z06 have been lowered just a tad for that cleaner look. I wish they were both a little lower from a looks perspective, however, it's refreshing not having to worry about the road ahead so much and I enjoy not having to cringe when driving over uneven road surfaces and whatnot.

With that said, I would personally go with the BMR springs over the Sportlines. My buddy recently put the BMR's on his Formula and IMO it looks about perfect as-is while still being functional. I would also imagine the BMR's to ride less harsh than the Sportlines too. I also vote to keep your stock height tires. You could always do the hose mod to lower the rear just a hair more if need be.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

I've never been a fan of the "slammed" look on these cars; they look much better with just a slight drop from stock IMO. So if you want to lower it that would be my recommendation, especially if exhaust ground clearance is a particular concern.

Having said that, bigger wheels may not be the answer if you want to fill up the gap further. What you'd want are tires with a larger than stock overall diameter, regardless of wheel size. In fact, larger diameter wheels tend to make that gap look bigger, even if you go with a sidewall that maintains the same overall tire diameter. On the stock 17s, you can go to a 285/40 tire to get a tiny bit more height (and 10mm more width) and still fit the stock wheel. There are more options for going taller if you change wheel size, either bigger or smaller, just remember that it's overall tire diameter that you'd want to increase to accomplish this, not necessarily wheel diameter.

JD_AMG

You are making a bunch of noob mistakes, like in the other threads please do a search and read the stickies.
Sportlines are literally the worst springs made for our cars, I dont know how eibach let them leave their facility the way they are. They totally slam the car (will put you on the bumpstops in the rear, so you have no spring basically) and don't have anywhere near enough rate to compensate for the drop (you need to increase spring rate the lower you go so you don't constantly slam the bumpstops). On top of that they are known for sagging and lowering the car even more over time. If you want a spring that slams the car you can look at UMI's new lowering spring, and compare those rates to the sportlines, UMIs are WAY higher rates (UMI 600lbs/in vs sportline 360lbs/in front and UMI 200lbs/in rear vs sportlines 137lb/in). The UMI spring rates are what you need to be at minimum if you want to be that low functionally.
However I suggest you do NOT lower the car that low as your ride quality will greatly suffer and you will have clearance problems everywhere you drive.
So either BMRs 1.2" lowering springs or Stranos 1.2" lowering springs would be ideal IF you also pair them with proper shocks. OEM's and autozone replacements are total garbage and work better as paper weights. You will want something like SLP/HD Bilstiens or Koni STR.T's at a bare minimum of budget shocks, anything cheaper will simply not work well. Factor in you may need an adjustable panhard bar as well to center the rear end after lowering, and you will most certainly need one if you want to run wider wheels/tires in the rear.
Also running larger wheels will NOT fill in the wheel well any more if you are running the same overall diameter wheel/tire combo as stock (still will be same overall height as stock with a taller wheel but shorter tire), so you will have to make sure to buy even taller aspect tires than what you would normally buy to match what the stock height is.
I would highly suggest keeping the stock wheels for the time being, lowering the car and see what you think for there, Im betting you will be satisfied and might just want to get wider wheels instead of taller.

01Z0H6

iTrader: (63)

Man, you guys are hitting the nail on the head. The OP should take your advise... Case in point, one if my previous 99 SS vert had the Eibach's w stock shocks and the cheap Chinese ZR1 17x11's out back. The ride was HORRIBLE!!! One of the first things I did was purchase the Bilsteins, BMR springs, OEM 10 spokes... the car actually had a nice PHR,LCA's,SFC's,Relo brackets... The car dove like new and was stiff and responsive. do yourself a favor and stay away from the Eibachs.....and the wider wheels for looks only.
there is a way to have the visual appeal as well as the ride quality with the RIGHT parts.

WBO_COTTO

GAWD DAMN! just found out that my Eibach Sportline kit has 314 Front and 57 rear rate....that blows and its why I feel bumps and stuff on the roads its decent and obviously better then stock....but I'm deff going to shoot for the new SP090 BMR Springs for the SAME price I bught that stupid Eibach crap. The SP090'S offer 725 front and 210 rear rates. What I need to know is if I need that much more spring rate otherwise I'd gowith the SP001R.

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

The SP090's will be fairly stiff, and will be a stark comparison to the eibachs you have now. The SP001 is a 550/160 rate combination and honestly may be better suited for a daily driven street car that will not see hardcore cornering

imprtkillr2810

I have the Strano SP141 lowering springs with Koni STR-T's and UMI adjustable panhard bar. I personally love the way the car sits and the way it rides on my set up. Something that people aren't mentioning is if you lower the car you will want to get a sent of LCA relocation brackets as well. Im also running UMI 3 point subframe connectors, TSP 1 7/8" long tubes, 3" off road Y, and SLP LM1. Granted I have to be a little more carefully with the car being lowered, I haven't had any issues with scraping during normal driving. Of course you have to watch speed bumps and steep driveways.

Strano spring rates
-Front spring rate: 550 lbs/in.
-Rear spring rate: 100 lbs/in. take up (non functional while driving), 150 lbs/in. working rate.

JD_AMG

Because that is a false statement and they are not a needed part. The way the LCAs are angled after lowering is actually better for handling as it will cause roll understeer and the car will be easier to control (and faster).
IF you are getting wheel hop then you can consider relocation brackets but they may not necessarily get rid of it.