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Remove Baffles, WS6 Hood?

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Old 03-09-2006, 06:01 PM   #1
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Default Remove Baffles, WS6 Hood?

I did a search and couldn't find anything. Would it be worth the trouble to remove the baffles from the inside of the hood to improve air flow? I'm sure this has come up before, sorry if it's a re-post.
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Old 03-09-2006, 10:09 PM   #2
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I'm sure this is covered somewhere in this site, but it's really easy.

Pop your hood and look at the bottom front section. You'll see a number of small rivets. Drill them out (I think it's an 1/8" bit, but it's been a long time since I did mine, you might need to eyeball it). Once all the rivets are drilled out, just reach in from behind and pop them out. They are glued in as well as riveted so you will have to apply pressure to break the glue. The front was tougher than the rear.

Be advised that the inside of the hood is white. I wanted to take my grill inserts out to have 4 smooth holes, but the white was just too much (on a black car), so I put the grills (not the baffles) back in for now. Once I get around to painting the debaffled insides I'll take them out.
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Old 03-09-2006, 10:23 PM   #3
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A guy named Brian Green made a kit to replace the baffles with smooth tunnels that connected dirrectly to the air box with no gap in between. You could order the tunnels black or color match your car. But he stoopped making it and only sells the gasket and a feew other pieces last time I checked. Maybe you can find one on ebay.
It was called the BG Ram Air.
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Old 03-09-2006, 10:26 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HPP
I'm sure this is covered somewhere in this site, but it's really easy.

Pop your hood and look at the bottom front section. You'll see a number of small rivets. Drill them out (I think it's an 1/8" bit, but it's been a long time since I did mine, you might need to eyeball it). Once all the rivets are drilled out, just reach in from behind and pop them out. They are glued in as well as riveted so you will have to apply pressure to break the glue. The front was tougher than the rear.

Be advised that the inside of the hood is white. I wanted to take my grill inserts out to have 4 smooth holes, but the white was just too much (on a black car), so I put the grills (not the baffles) back in for now. Once I get around to painting the debaffled insides I'll take them out.
"Rear" baffles?? I only see 1 set in front of the grill, where are the rear baffles located, I must be blind! Posta pic if ya can please.
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Old 03-09-2006, 10:28 PM   #5
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It's easy as pie to remove them. I did it to both of my cars. Did it really help? Who knows, can't hurt though.
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Old 03-10-2006, 09:54 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KillerKlown
"Rear" baffles?? I only see 1 set in front of the grill, where are the rear baffles located, I must be blind! Posta pic if ya can please.
My camera isn't working right now unfortunately, but if you look at the bottom of the front of the hood you'll see the rivets I mentioned and you'll notice there's a lot more than would be there for just the ones you can see behind the grill inserts.

Each intake has a single front baffel, and behind them, is 1 large rear baffle. If you reach around from behind and inside to feel the baffles, the rear is the one you feel.

So in stock form the air is going through the grills, hitting the front baffles, being shunted down, hitting the bottom of the inside of the hood and being shunted back, then hitting the rear baffle, being forced up to the top of the inside of the hood, and then over the baffle and down again to get under the airbox, where it then has to change direction once more to go up and through the airfilter to get down the intake. lol This is why people say it's only for looks and nothing more. Nutty engineers. Wonder how much crack they went through working on that.

Anyway, just drill out all the rivets, reach in from behind and press the (rear) baffle forward till it pops, then fish it out, then take out your grill inserts and from either the front or the back, whichever is easiest depending on your hand and arm size, push on the front baffles individually and then fish them out the back as well. They will be a lot tougher. Just take your time and becareful.
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Old 03-10-2006, 01:18 PM   #7
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The stated reason for the baffles is to prevent water from getting into the intake. Has anyone every experienced a problem (wet filter, etc.)?
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Old 03-10-2006, 01:29 PM   #8
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Thanks for all the info guy's! I will probably drill out the rivets when I get some time.

Quote:
It's easy as pie to remove them. I did it to both of my cars. Did it really help? Who knows, can't hurt though.

That's what I was wondering as well, how much if any gain?
The stated reason for the baffles is to prevent water from getting into the intake. Has anyone every experienced a problem (wet filter, etc.)?[/QUOTE]

Any Takers on that one?
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Old 03-10-2006, 02:22 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HPP
My camera isn't working right now unfortunately, but if you look at the bottom of the front of the hood you'll see the rivets I mentioned and you'll notice there's a lot more than would be there for just the ones you can see behind the grill inserts.

Each intake has a single front baffel, and behind them, is 1 large rear baffle. If you reach around from behind and inside to feel the baffles, the rear is the one you feel.

So in stock form the air is going through the grills, hitting the front baffles, being shunted down, hitting the bottom of the inside of the hood and being shunted back, then hitting the rear baffle, being forced up to the top of the inside of the hood, and then over the baffle and down again to get under the airbox, where it then has to change direction once more to go up and through the airfilter to get down the intake. lol This is why people say it's only for looks and nothing more. Nutty engineers. Wonder how much crack they went through working on that.

Anyway, just drill out all the rivets, reach in from behind and press the (rear) baffle forward till it pops, then fish it out, then take out your grill inserts and from either the front or the back, whichever is easiest depending on your hand and arm size, push on the front baffles individually and then fish them out the back as well. They will be a lot tougher. Just take your time and becareful.
Thanks! That cleared it up much better. Yeah, what where they thinking?!
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Old 03-10-2006, 03:32 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02RedWS6RamAir
Quote:
The stated reason for the baffles is to prevent water from getting into the intake. Has anyone every experienced a problem (wet filter, etc.)?
Any Takers on that one?
I don't drive my car in the rain.

I've heard from other people though that they've never had a water problem. Other mods, like the Fast Toys Ram Air (which makes a channel from under the chin) would be worse than debaffling the WS6 hood, but no problems with that AFAIK.

Also, the LT1s didn't have all that bloody baffling and were essentially a true straight shot from the openings to the manifold.
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Old 03-10-2006, 05:14 PM   #11
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I have the Brian Greene system. I love it!!! not only does it debaffle, but he has inserts that smooth out the whole nostril area so there isn't any turbulence. His kit also comes with a hard foam spacer so it become true ram air (between the nostrils and the air lid). There is a rain plate for the kit but I never wanna get wet so I just run into the car and get in. (you have to pop the hood to put the rain plate in) I have driven the car in torential downpours and have not had a single problem.
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Old 03-10-2006, 05:44 PM   #12
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...think my baffles are on borrowed time.
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Old 03-11-2006, 09:46 AM   #13
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Quote:
Also, the LT1s didn't have all that bloody baffling and were essentially a true straight shot from the openings to the manifold.
not true the LT-1 ramair hood DOES have baffles and therefore is NOT a "straight through" design
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Old 03-11-2006, 03:25 PM   #14
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Baffles are gone! Took about 45 minutes. I don't really expect to much of a performance gain, however it looks llike it will breathe allot better.

When I have another day off I will take it apart again and spray the whole inside flat black. If you look you can see inside, dosen't look that pretty.
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Old 03-12-2006, 09:41 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Akuma
I have the Brian Greene system. I love it!!! not only does it debaffle, but he has inserts that smooth out the whole nostril area so there isn't any turbulence. His kit also comes with a hard foam spacer so it become true ram air (between the nostrils and the air lid). There is a rain plate for the kit but I never wanna get wet so I just run into the car and get in. (you have to pop the hood to put the rain plate in) I have driven the car in torential downpours and have not had a single problem.
I agree. I did not know he stopped makeing them though?
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Old 03-13-2006, 11:59 PM   #16
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It suprised me too. I was planning on getting one (this was before I had my car) to put on my planned WS6 purchase. I later found out why, too expensive to manufacture. He was barely making any money and the compan that helped him was losing money. I read the whole story on ls1.com. Kinda disapointing for a few WS6 owners (and WS6 seekers like myself)
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Old 03-15-2006, 09:55 AM   #17
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as far as getting water in the engine the water would have to go up through the filter and then enter the engine. while some people may experience wet filters in a monsoon type rain, it seems almost impossible for the water to get in the engine. I have had this done for 2 years and never had a wet filter. I live in florida and we see some heavy rain.
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Old 03-15-2006, 10:11 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
The stated reason for the baffles is to prevent water from getting into the intake. Has anyone every experienced a problem (wet filter, etc.)?
I live in Seattle and my WS6's hood is debaffled... I've driven it in the rain numerous times and not had a problem.
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Old 03-19-2006, 02:58 AM   #19
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would just deblaffeling the hood make a diffence in the rain factor in Southern California.
now, most of the time we don't get rain, but the few times we do it can get real wet (if you know what I mean), a street that i have to cross on my way to school always become a river. That ruled out the FTRA and SSRA. The top of the hood only get in water for about 3 secs at the most.
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Old 03-21-2006, 11:13 PM   #20
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When I made a 1200 mile round trip to Norcal in my car, i got water in my engine when it was pouring rain. Trust me, you WILL get water in your engine if you drive fast in the rain and if your WS6 hood is debaffled. I had to drive 55 mph on the freeway when it was raining so i wouldn't get rain in my engine. I pulled over halfway through the trip, bought duct tape and taped the inside of my hood. Anytime it rains i just use duct tape to seal my hood. Im just glad nothing happened like a blown head gasket 600 miles away from home!
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