2008 G8 GT - G88 589 - "Build Thread"
04-04-2015, 01:49 PM
#42
Hi Guys -- long time, no post 
I started a business back in November which has taken up all of my time. I'm finally starting to get some time available for "fun" stuff, so expect to see me more
I'll be installing the UMI rear control and toe arms hopefully in the next week. I will also be adding a Vararam intake and PaceSetter headers... while keeping the stock midpipe and axleback for sound control (I'll be adding cutouts at some point). Lastly, I'll have it tuned by Domin8 who is a local guy here in Pittsburgh.
Sorry for the lull, but stay tuned for some updates very soon!
I started a business back in November which has taken up all of my time. I'm finally starting to get some time available for "fun" stuff, so expect to see me more
I'll be installing the UMI rear control and toe arms hopefully in the next week. I will also be adding a Vararam intake and PaceSetter headers... while keeping the stock midpipe and axleback for sound control (I'll be adding cutouts at some point). Lastly, I'll have it tuned by Domin8 who is a local guy here in Pittsburgh.
Sorry for the lull, but stay tuned for some updates very soon!
04-14-2015, 12:51 PM
#44
Aside from starting a business, I sold my house in two weeks... not just had a contract in two weeks, but listed it on a Thursday night and was moved out and had cash in hand two weeks later. Thus, I'm working out of my in-laws garage without all my tools. So, installs are a little more difficult. Thus, I was only able to get the rear trailing arms on since all the suspension bolts have 94k miles of Northeast rust build up!
The UMI trailing arms made an immediate difference. Wheel spin was instantly eliminated. Granted, this car isn't making much more power than stock, but nonetheless, I was pleasantly surprised. Definitely a good idea for anyone making power and having traction/wheel hop problems.
Secondly, I got the Vararam on:
Install was straightforward and really cleaned up the engine bay by removing the huge intake box. While SOTP doesn't seem much different, the car actually sounds like there is something with more than four cylinders under the hood. I am looking forward to what the longtubes and tune will do!
As mentioned, the toe rods and front control arms need to wait until another time as I simply couldn't get the cam bolts out (or the ball joints out of the front knuckle for that matter). I did, however, decide to order Moog sway bar end links and Prothane sway bar bushings for the front in [slim] hopes that they'll solve the suspension rattle up front so that I can just send the control arms back to Pace Performance. I also have a Whiteline steering rack bushing coming for good measure.
I hope the next update will be stating I no longer have the clunk!
The UMI trailing arms made an immediate difference. Wheel spin was instantly eliminated. Granted, this car isn't making much more power than stock, but nonetheless, I was pleasantly surprised. Definitely a good idea for anyone making power and having traction/wheel hop problems.
Secondly, I got the Vararam on:
Install was straightforward and really cleaned up the engine bay by removing the huge intake box. While SOTP doesn't seem much different, the car actually sounds like there is something with more than four cylinders under the hood. I am looking forward to what the longtubes and tune will do!
As mentioned, the toe rods and front control arms need to wait until another time as I simply couldn't get the cam bolts out (or the ball joints out of the front knuckle for that matter). I did, however, decide to order Moog sway bar end links and Prothane sway bar bushings for the front in [slim] hopes that they'll solve the suspension rattle up front so that I can just send the control arms back to Pace Performance. I also have a Whiteline steering rack bushing coming for good measure.
I hope the next update will be stating I no longer have the clunk!
04-14-2015, 08:10 PM
#46
The previous owner had them replaced under warranty a few years ago, but I believe it was before the "updated" control arm kit. I had looked at the Moog pieces, but they're rather pricey and they're not the "Problem Solver" line.
04-18-2015, 08:01 PM
#47
No more clunk!!!!
I replaced the front sway bar end links, front sway bar bushings, and steering rack bushing today. While I can't pinpoint which particular part fixed the clunk, I am ecstatic that it's gone without touching the front control arms.
Whiteline steering rack bushing:
This was a pretty straightforward install -- no different than sway bar bushings. Not sure this even did anything, but for less than $20 I figured it was worth a shot.
Prothane front sway bar bushings:
Quick and easy. Like mentioned above, I'm not sure if these helped with clunking, but I appreciate tightening things up a bit. I also prefer the ability to grease these with the integrated zerk fitting.
Moog "Problem Solver" sway bar end links
As one can tell from the picture, I had some difficulty getting the nuts off. Fortunately, I grabbed my cut off wheel from storage and was able to make quick work of the toothpick-appearing stock end links. The Problem Solver line also includes zerk fittings to keep things greased.
I have a finicky rear door lock which sometimes takes a few presses of the button to unlock. This is a common problem with the G8, so I ordered a replacement actuator from Pace Performance. Once that's done, it's time to get those long tubes done
I replaced the front sway bar end links, front sway bar bushings, and steering rack bushing today. While I can't pinpoint which particular part fixed the clunk, I am ecstatic that it's gone without touching the front control arms.
Whiteline steering rack bushing:
This was a pretty straightforward install -- no different than sway bar bushings. Not sure this even did anything, but for less than $20 I figured it was worth a shot.
Prothane front sway bar bushings:
Quick and easy. Like mentioned above, I'm not sure if these helped with clunking, but I appreciate tightening things up a bit. I also prefer the ability to grease these with the integrated zerk fitting.
Moog "Problem Solver" sway bar end links
As one can tell from the picture, I had some difficulty getting the nuts off. Fortunately, I grabbed my cut off wheel from storage and was able to make quick work of the toothpick-appearing stock end links. The Problem Solver line also includes zerk fittings to keep things greased.
I have a finicky rear door lock which sometimes takes a few presses of the button to unlock. This is a common problem with the G8, so I ordered a replacement actuator from Pace Performance. Once that's done, it's time to get those long tubes done
04-24-2015, 09:17 AM
#49
It was a huge relief. I know that at some point I'll need to replace the control arms, but it was nice getting that $270 back from Pace.
Speaking of Pace, I actually went to Pace Performance in person to return the arms as I was in the area for work. I didn't realize it was in Boardman, Ohio which is where my wife was born and raised. Small world. Nice people. Crummy Ohio
Speaking of Pace, I actually went to Pace Performance in person to return the arms as I was in the area for work. I didn't realize it was in Boardman, Ohio which is where my wife was born and raised. Small world. Nice people. Crummy Ohio
05-17-2015, 02:59 PM
#50
Finally another update! Nothing all that exciting, but I got around to finishing all the suspension stuff I planned to do for this year. First the easy stuff:
Moog rear sway bar end links. Just like the front, the rear are much beefier and have the grease fittings --
I had initially ordered Prothane sway bar bushings for the rear so as to match the front (and they’re greasable), but the rear sway bar bracket is not a traditional two-bolt bracket. Thus, I decided to order Whiteline sway bar bushings for the rear –
I installed the UMI Performance Toe Arms as well. Not as drastic a change as the UMI trailing arms were, but I’m sure their bulk eliminates any deflection like the OE stamped steel would have --
Also installed new alignment bolts from SPC Performance. While I wouldn’t imagine they’d usually be necessary, since I’ve got 97k miles (as of this update), I figured it was worth the replacement –
The “creme-de-la-crem” of this round was the cradle bushing inserts. Not because they were difficult, but because I busted one of the cradle bolts! Of course, after I broke the bolt, I found endless threads on the main G8 sites stating the excessive threadlocker used from the factory causes very difficult removal. In hindsight, I would have heated each bolt before removal. In practice (before I used the power of the Internet), I used an 18” breaker bar with a 24” piece of pipe on it to get them out.
The driver-rear bolt was the only one to snap. This seems to be a commonality from what I have learned. Some heat and swearing later, I got the bolt out. This also required a drive back to Pace Performance as they were the only dealer in proximity of Pittsburgh to have the cradle bolts on-hand –
And here is the finished result --
Like most all people who install the bushing inserts proclaim, the rear definitely feels more connected. I’d absolutely recommend these to anyone (along with the toe/trailing) arms to help keep the rear planted both in a straight line and side to side.
Lastly, I’ll share a picture of the next mod – PowerBond 25% UDP with Dayco belts and a new GM bolt. I know some like the ARP bolt since it’s reusable, but I can buy six GM bolts for the price of one ARP. Since I only plan on removing this once after this install (for a DOD-delete cam install next spring), I don’t find the ARP bolt necessary for my application.
Moog rear sway bar end links. Just like the front, the rear are much beefier and have the grease fittings --
I had initially ordered Prothane sway bar bushings for the rear so as to match the front (and they’re greasable), but the rear sway bar bracket is not a traditional two-bolt bracket. Thus, I decided to order Whiteline sway bar bushings for the rear –
I installed the UMI Performance Toe Arms as well. Not as drastic a change as the UMI trailing arms were, but I’m sure their bulk eliminates any deflection like the OE stamped steel would have --
Also installed new alignment bolts from SPC Performance. While I wouldn’t imagine they’d usually be necessary, since I’ve got 97k miles (as of this update), I figured it was worth the replacement –
The “creme-de-la-crem” of this round was the cradle bushing inserts. Not because they were difficult, but because I busted one of the cradle bolts! Of course, after I broke the bolt, I found endless threads on the main G8 sites stating the excessive threadlocker used from the factory causes very difficult removal. In hindsight, I would have heated each bolt before removal. In practice (before I used the power of the Internet), I used an 18” breaker bar with a 24” piece of pipe on it to get them out.
The driver-rear bolt was the only one to snap. This seems to be a commonality from what I have learned. Some heat and swearing later, I got the bolt out. This also required a drive back to Pace Performance as they were the only dealer in proximity of Pittsburgh to have the cradle bolts on-hand –
And here is the finished result --
Like most all people who install the bushing inserts proclaim, the rear definitely feels more connected. I’d absolutely recommend these to anyone (along with the toe/trailing) arms to help keep the rear planted both in a straight line and side to side.
Lastly, I’ll share a picture of the next mod – PowerBond 25% UDP with Dayco belts and a new GM bolt. I know some like the ARP bolt since it’s reusable, but I can buy six GM bolts for the price of one ARP. Since I only plan on removing this once after this install (for a DOD-delete cam install next spring), I don’t find the ARP bolt necessary for my application.
06-08-2015, 06:58 PM
#54
Finally got around to getting the pulley installed. It was straight forward and went on like any other LS UDP. I definitely notice it revving quicker with a small SOTP feel. I had good luck with the UDP on my SS which can be read about here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...nd-pulley.html
06-20-2015, 12:59 PM
#56
Finally got around to getting brakes on this behemoth. I would have liked to made a true upgrade with larger rotors and better calipers; however, that option was not in the budget. The popular "budget" upgrade is the GXP/1st Gen CTSV caliper. I had also put together a list to upgrade to 5th Gen SS calipers, but I did not find take off parts (i.e. junkyard) to be reasonably priced enough to do that option, either. Thus, I installed ACDelco Pro-series rotors on all four corners along with their same pads in the rear -- Hawk HPS pads on the front. It also bled the system with Valvoline DOT4.
The Pro-series rotors came painted on the hubs and fins, so I sprayed clear engine enamel on those areas before installation. I don't know how well that will work, but any rust abatement will be worth it. Unfortunately, I did not have the time to clean the previous owners' caliper paint job. I would like to rebuild the calipers at some point as the pistons were really rusty along with one of the pins needed some "love" as water had got into it at some point and dried it out.
Of course I forget that Hawk doesn't include pad clips in their kits when I already had it all apart. There was one parts place in 50 miles that had a kit available. Advance had their "house" Wearever kit, but nothing available from Auto Zone, Pep Boys, Napa, etc. I'm guessing someone had ordered it and returned it as I can't imagine there is really a need for anyone to stock a kit for a G8. Fortunately I lucked out.
Pretty boring picture, but it's something to share:
Finally supposed to close on a new house next week, so I'll be able to organize my own garage again. This will hopefully motivate me enough to get the headers installed before Christmas
Lastly, I rolled over 100,000 miles this past week That's 18k miles since purchasing last August. Several thousand have been thrown on during our home transition, but the car has been great handling everything the turnpike throws at it for the two hours each day I'm driving to/from work. That said, it is time to change the rear and transmission fluid. That will wait until I'm settled in the new house, though.
The Pro-series rotors came painted on the hubs and fins, so I sprayed clear engine enamel on those areas before installation. I don't know how well that will work, but any rust abatement will be worth it. Unfortunately, I did not have the time to clean the previous owners' caliper paint job. I would like to rebuild the calipers at some point as the pistons were really rusty along with one of the pins needed some "love" as water had got into it at some point and dried it out.
Of course I forget that Hawk doesn't include pad clips in their kits when I already had it all apart. There was one parts place in 50 miles that had a kit available. Advance had their "house" Wearever kit, but nothing available from Auto Zone, Pep Boys, Napa, etc. I'm guessing someone had ordered it and returned it as I can't imagine there is really a need for anyone to stock a kit for a G8. Fortunately I lucked out.
Pretty boring picture, but it's something to share:
Finally supposed to close on a new house next week, so I'll be able to organize my own garage again. This will hopefully motivate me enough to get the headers installed before Christmas
Lastly, I rolled over 100,000 miles this past week
That's 18k miles since purchasing last August. Several thousand have been thrown on during our home transition, but the car has been great handling everything the turnpike throws at it for the two hours each day I'm driving to/from work. That said, it is time to change the rear and transmission fluid. That will wait until I'm settled in the new house, though. Last edited by demonspeed; 06-20-2015 at 01:04 PM.
02-12-2016, 06:44 PM
#59
I’ve obviously been quite lazy with this thread. As a matter of fact, I’ve not even signed in to the site since August! I used to wonder why people who were active slowly went away, but I can attest to now being one of those people. Life – mostly kids and work – simply takes over hobbies. It might be a lame excuse, but I simply haven’t made it a priority to hop on. I digress…
So, I finally got around to getting some things done for the winter. I just hit 113k miles today, but that doesn’t mean it’s too spent to tinker with. Here’s what’s happened the past couple of months:
I added the deeper Camaro SS transmission pan along with the CTS-V filter:
Then I installed a VMax ported throttle body:
And finally – with the help of Trav2SS, Jerry01WS6 and "that dick that bought my old car" – I installed Manzo (off-brand Pypes) headers. These aren’t the usual long tube design; rather, they are tri-y. They still eliminated the cats, but I am sticking with the factory mid pipe and axle backs. I want the performance of headers but just a little extra rumble so the car continues to fly under the radar.
Up next is a dynotune from Domin8 (www.domin8tuned.com). I’ll be sure to update the thread with numbers
Some other things coming in the Spring: getting rid of these winter tires, lol
I picked up some Sport package 19” wheels with nearly-new Continentals:
So, I finally got around to getting some things done for the winter. I just hit 113k miles today, but that doesn’t mean it’s too spent to tinker with. Here’s what’s happened the past couple of months:
I added the deeper Camaro SS transmission pan along with the CTS-V filter:
Then I installed a VMax ported throttle body:
And finally – with the help of Trav2SS, Jerry01WS6 and "that dick that bought my old car" – I installed Manzo (off-brand Pypes) headers. These aren’t the usual long tube design; rather, they are tri-y. They still eliminated the cats, but I am sticking with the factory mid pipe and axle backs. I want the performance of headers but just a little extra rumble so the car continues to fly under the radar.
Up next is a dynotune from Domin8 (www.domin8tuned.com). I’ll be sure to update the thread with numbers
Some other things coming in the Spring: getting rid of these winter tires, lol
I picked up some Sport package 19” wheels with nearly-new Continentals:
Last edited by demonspeed; 02-12-2016 at 07:46 PM.
