danieloneil01

My car decides to start over heating. I looked down and it was right before the "H" so I darted over when the light went green and popped the hood and all seem normal. When I drive it's fine but still a few degrees warmer than it usually runs. Usually right under the 3rd line but at freeway speeds it's a bit passed the 3rd line. So I exited and got to a light and 5 seconds after I stopped it shot up to "H" and got the warning. Light turned green and it went back down. I got home popped the hood with the engine running and the fans came on when it climbed again. I killed the engine and the fluid was boiling in the radiator. I opened the cap very carefully and the fluid was about 5" below. This is the first time it's done this. I checked my dipstick just incase but it looks fine. I also squeezed the hose where the thermostat goes to and it seemed to be open.


Anyone have any ideas?

1904gto

iTrader: (4)

check the radiator could b air pockets in the system not letting the coolant from the overflow to enter the radiator, happened to me
just replaced new radiator actualy week ago, ours tend to go

danieloneil01

I haven't had an overflow tank for about 4 months. The hose just points to the ground. And I had never opened the radiator cap until it overheated.

I'm going to replace the t-stat tomorrow and hope that fixes it.

acurro

I think it needs a radiator (mine went too) or maybe just a thermostat, since the fan seems to be working. I think I might have read somewhere that the coolant temperature sensor might go sometimes, but I haven't had that happen to me.

Why did you take out the overflow tank?

1904gto

iTrader: (4)

yeah y ya remove the tank?

danieloneil01

Well I replaced the t-stat and it's still overheating. The hose that connects to where the t-stat is doesn't seem to be flowing fluid at all. I squeezed it and held onto it and while the car was running (fans were both on too so the temp was up there) and it wasn't hot enough to where I had to let go and it wasn't pressured up (limp). It was warm but the car had been running for awhile and even went to "H" a few times.


So tomorrow I'll get a pump and go from there. Hopefully it's not to hard to replace.

Do you need any RTV or does the gasket go on dry?

danieloneil01

I removed the tank because I used a Hardcore Intake at one time.

And my temp is probably right. My radiator makes a really loud noise probably because the water from the engine is boiling into it.

jesse06

do you have heat coming out of your vents when vehicle is running. If not i would try replacing the thermostat. That just happened to my car and i changed the thermostat and havent had a problem since.

Rob

iTrader: (6)

You can reuse the gaskets if you take the water pump off.

danieloneil01

LOL, I was fixing to ask that very question. I just bought a new water pump (not a refurb). And before putting it in I thought I would try removing any air in the system if I had any. So I started it with the heater on full blast. Once it got to normal temp the heat was still cold as were the hoses to the pump. The temp got almost to "H" so I killed it. Heater was still blowing cold air and hoses were still cold.

I took off the pump and went to flush the block out but the water coming out was clear. So I'm pretty sure the water in the block was boiling and evaporating into the radiator. That's why it was making a loud noise in the radiator. I can only hope that I didn't do any type of damage to the engine.


Bad thing, I had the 6 bolts in the pump holding the gaskets in when I tried very carefully to put it in. Like a dumbass I tilted it to get it in and the bolts fell out. So now I have 5 out of 6 bolts left. Time to walk 3 miles to AutoZone and pray they have them.


And I put my new t-stat in boiling water and it opened up.

danieloneil01

Ok I'm stumped. I put the new pump on and added fluid. Started her up and slowly added more fluid. I squeezed the two hoses a few times. During this I had the heater blowing full blast. Well it gets to normal temp and is still blowing cold air. So I said F-it I'll take it for a spin and WOT to see if that helps. Did it the first time and what do you know the heater started blowing hot. But it went away right after it came on. It got warm for a few more seconds but then that was that for heat. So I put on about 4 miles during this trip and went home and popped the hood. The hose by the cap going to the t-stat is still cold and I can't feel any fluid going through it. I felt the pump and it's really really hot. And while I was about to just shut it down it went to "H" and I turned it off.

Is there any way to see if the pump it pumping or if there's any blockage in the engine? I know it seems rare that something could be blocking flow but I don't think it's flowing fluid at all. I'm stumped.

danieloneil01

Which way does it flow out of the radiator? Driver side hose in or out?

danieloneil01

I took the pump off to run water through both sides on the block and water came out the other hole so that wasn't the problem. Then I got my factory t-stat that I thought was the problem. Put it in boiling water and it opened up. Put the pump on this time and got the water hose and put it in the upper part where the hose hooks up to that goes on the driver side radiator. And voila it started pumping.

Looking back that was my problem when I put the new pump on. Squeezing the two hoses didn't prime the pump. Now she's working great and I'm surprised I didn't screw the engine up.

Only thing now is I took it for a drive and I turned the car off and it's sounds like it's boiling in the radiator or something. My overflow hose is releasing fluid and steam. But my temp stayed right where it normally does and never moved. Maybe I just over filled it or have to much. Or do I have to much water and not the right mixture? I bought 50/50 but I had to prime the pump with water which I know is wrong since it has minerals and ****.