Anyone with a SCSS W/B Gauge?
#21
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I also connected the LC-1 to a 12V source and the O2 never heated up.
Red on Positive
White and Blue on Negative
Per Instructions
Never got warm (after 3 minutes). Did I do something wrong? It should heat up, no?
Red on Positive
White and Blue on Negative
Per Instructions
Never got warm (after 3 minutes). Did I do something wrong? It should heat up, no?
#22
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Hey Tom, I posted this on the innovate site and also contacted them. I also did this,
So I disconnected the O2 sensor and did a volt test to the LC-1 and this is what I got, the negative on the volt tester was connected to the negative of the jump starter.
White = 0v
Green = 2.46
Gray = 13.16v
Black = 0.4v
Red = 4.97v
So I disconnected the O2 sensor and did a volt test to the LC-1 and this is what I got, the negative on the volt tester was connected to the negative of the jump starter.
White = 0v
Green = 2.46
Gray = 13.16v
Black = 0.4v
Red = 4.97v
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I will give my 2 cents.
I would step back for a second and re-read the directions. Then take everything out and wire it all back again. Check every wire for continuity, and check every ground one by one. Wiring can be a pain in the a**.
I would step back for a second and re-read the directions. Then take everything out and wire it all back again. Check every wire for continuity, and check every ground one by one. Wiring can be a pain in the a**.
#27
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I'm not scared or alien when it comes to wiring. I wired my nitrous system and it has 10x more wires. I've also wired tons of amps and radios in my day.
I've been wiring it to a jump starter since the ground would be like grounding it to the battery of the car. I even hooked up the LED and it doesn't lite up which is a 1.8V 20mA and I connected it to a 3V source before and after trying this and it still works. And the instructions say it's either not getting power (which it is) or it's in free air calibration mode. In which case the sensor should heat up but it doesn't. I have the white and blue wire on negative and the red on positive. So it should work because neither the brown or yellow wire need to be connected for it to work.
I've been wiring it to a jump starter since the ground would be like grounding it to the battery of the car. I even hooked up the LED and it doesn't lite up which is a 1.8V 20mA and I connected it to a 3V source before and after trying this and it still works. And the instructions say it's either not getting power (which it is) or it's in free air calibration mode. In which case the sensor should heat up but it doesn't. I have the white and blue wire on negative and the red on positive. So it should work because neither the brown or yellow wire need to be connected for it to work.
#30
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Got my new lc-1 in today. Had to spend 50 for overnight but I need it before heading to Houston. So quick question, what's the % supposed to be? I'll be running a wet 125 shot and would like to know at what % I should be ok at and what % I should be worried at. Sorry if it's a really noob question.
Also, a high reading is lean and a low reading is rich?
Also, a high reading is lean and a low reading is rich?
#31
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When you go WOT and spray you should be around 11.5 no higher than 11.8 by what I have been reading for spray. Yes higher the number the leaner I would say go to hp tuners forum and read a lot before you start making changes.
#32
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I don't have any way to adjust it since I don't have a tuner. But I installed the LC-1 and it's acting funny. Maybe it's supposed to do this but here goes.
It bounces around from 10.1'ish to 10.5 at idle and never gets above 10.5 even taking off at WOT. Driving around 60mph in 6th it bounces around a bit but again never gets passed 10.5 When I floored it in 6th at 60mph it went to 10.5 and stayed there.
I calibrated it per instructions and it went like a breeze.
Here's a video of the gauge at IDLE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r8NyvqbwsSs
Should I re-calibrate it or is this normal? My grounds have about 1" of solder all the way around so they can't be loose. And the ground I used is from the cig lighter and light in the console off the plug that's by the other plugs for the T/C, Windows and Locks..
It bounces around from 10.1'ish to 10.5 at idle and never gets above 10.5 even taking off at WOT. Driving around 60mph in 6th it bounces around a bit but again never gets passed 10.5 When I floored it in 6th at 60mph it went to 10.5 and stayed there.
I calibrated it per instructions and it went like a breeze.
Here's a video of the gauge at IDLE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r8NyvqbwsSs
Should I re-calibrate it or is this normal? My grounds have about 1" of solder all the way around so they can't be loose. And the ground I used is from the cig lighter and light in the console off the plug that's by the other plugs for the T/C, Windows and Locks..
#34
I don't have any way to adjust it since I don't have a tuner. But I installed the LC-1 and it's acting funny. Maybe it's supposed to do this but here goes.
It bounces around from 10.1'ish to 10.5 at idle and never gets above 10.5 even taking off at WOT. Driving around 60mph in 6th it bounces around a bit but again never gets passed 10.5 When I floored it in 6th at 60mph it went to 10.5 and stayed there.
I calibrated it per instructions and it went like a breeze.
Here's a video of the gauge at IDLE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r8NyvqbwsSs
Should I re-calibrate it or is this normal? My grounds have about 1" of solder all the way around so they can't be loose. And the ground I used is from the cig lighter and light in the console off the plug that's by the other plugs for the T/C, Windows and Locks..
It bounces around from 10.1'ish to 10.5 at idle and never gets above 10.5 even taking off at WOT. Driving around 60mph in 6th it bounces around a bit but again never gets passed 10.5 When I floored it in 6th at 60mph it went to 10.5 and stayed there.
I calibrated it per instructions and it went like a breeze.
Here's a video of the gauge at IDLE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r8NyvqbwsSs
Should I re-calibrate it or is this normal? My grounds have about 1" of solder all the way around so they can't be loose. And the ground I used is from the cig lighter and light in the console off the plug that's by the other plugs for the T/C, Windows and Locks..
#35
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I was using the wrong wire off the LC-1. I switched to the brown wire and now it works. But on my drive to Houston from El Paso it flashed 8 times on the led which is an overheating O2 sensor. I honestly have no idea why it is. The bung was installed about 12" from the factory O2 downstream of it on the passenger side pipe. I turned the car off and coasted a few times to reset it but it would work for a few minutes then go crazy and would go into flat mode and flash the led 8 times.
Here's a video of it going crazy. I had cruise control set at 75mph and at around 2,250rpm.
Hold up, using a mac and don't know how to do tabs
Here's a video of it going crazy. I had cruise control set at 75mph and at around 2,250rpm.
Hold up, using a mac and don't know how to do tabs
#36
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#38
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I'd like to report that it seems to be working. I didn't do anything to it. It just started working after a few drives. So I hooked it up to the pc and went for a few runs on a dead street. Does this seem right? At idle and cruising it stays in the 14's.
Runs went for about 8-10secs getting up to 75-85mph. On the No Nitrous runs you can see that I didn't speed shift. I engaged and released the clutch all the way shifting. And on the nitrous runs I think the RPM's get higher faster and stay high even though I'm shifting the sameway.
Runs went for about 8-10secs getting up to 75-85mph. On the No Nitrous runs you can see that I didn't speed shift. I engaged and released the clutch all the way shifting. And on the nitrous runs I think the RPM's get higher faster and stay high even though I'm shifting the sameway.