danieloneil01

If so do you have the instructions handy? I bought mine used and need to know what wires go where. I've PM'd Abo but if someone can tell me sooner I'd appreciate it.

kjhallex

iTrader: (1)

I wish I had one lol. Abo should be able to help you out, I have the boost and fp gauge and they weren't to hard to install.

danieloneil01

Yeah, I've messed with wiring in cars for a long time and even wired up my nitrous with tons of wires everywhere (first time even seeing nitrous in person muchless installing it). This should be a piece of cake compared to that.

I'm also waiting on my Nitrous gauge from him too. But not in a big hurry since I'm installing a Monster this weekend. And never messed with a tranny before (both figuratively and literally).

Nothingless

iTrader: (1)

you talkin about the wires to light up the guage and all? is it any different than the reg guages??

got the sheet for racing series volt/press/temp guages

danieloneil01

I just went ahead and called SCSS and he was nice enough to email me the instructions. So hopefully it's not to difficult to install, still haven't looked at them though.

Nothingless

iTrader: (1)

fig he would but didnt know if this one is the same for the wb to..

for the 3 wire plug in..
black=ground, red= keyed ignition, white= dash lighting

for the 2 wire (dimmer)white 12v dash lighting and black is dimer

Nothingless

iTrader: (1)

oh ya.. the fuel door release button

black is ground, purple/white is 12 v battery, brown/white is 12v dash lighting, dimmer is gray

12v keyed spare in fuse box/panel

danieloneil01

I looked at the instructions last night and noticed this Fuel Door in it. I'm supposed to get behind the fuel door button and splice into the wires or something?

kjhallex

iTrader: (1)

Yup, it's only 2 screws to remove the gauge bezel. Then you will see the wires. Pull the bezel from the top when you remove it.

Nothingless

iTrader: (1)

what he said.. but on mine for the keyed ign and constant power i used the add a fuse link they make and added them to the fuse panel..

then all i had to do was connect the dimmer wires to the fuel door release

danieloneil01

Quick question, if you know the answer. The black wire from the LC-1 that's supposed to have a push button and LED. Is it supposed to be Positive and then I ground it?

My SCSS gauge works but the wideband got hot the first few times when I was setting it up but the gauge would peg out to 18% and the light would stay on. Now the wideband no longer gets hot and the gauge stays at 10%. I tried connecting that black wire that the pushbutton goes to, to a Positive wire but that didn't work. I'm getting power to it where I have the fuse installed but it's not getting hot anymore.


Might just a bite the bullet and buy a new LC-1.

tom's2005gto

iTrader: (3)

It's tricky to set up. Just pick up the phone and call Abo, he will walk you through it. or check the Innovate forum, lot's of good info there too.

Wish I had more help to offer.

danieloneil01

Well, I checked the voltage going to the sensor and it's getting 12 volts and has a good ground. But when I supplied the sensor with 12volts to the red wire with it grounded on the other end it didn't heat up.


Can you get the sensor at AutoZone or Pepboys or is this strictly through innovate?

tom's2005gto

iTrader: (3)

I don't know about where to get a replacement sensor. I'm sure that's covered at http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/f...splay.php?f=10

but I can't imagine the sensor has gone bad. I never had any trouble with it at all.

danieloneil01

I've searched that site. Not exactly helpful. And I supplied it 12volts and it didn't heat up. Unless it takes two 12volt . I did one 12 volt to the red wire and 1 ground to the black wire. Granted there's 5 wires but I figured it only takes two to heat the plug.


The sensor did work but then it just stopped working. I never put it in the exhaust. The last time it got warm but never got hot then it just stopped heating up. I need to go to Radio Shack and get a LED to see what code it gives me.

danieloneil01

Well, I bought a LED 2.1V @ 20mA hooked it up and it didn't light up nor was there any current. So I just disconnected the - battery cable and cut all the wires coming out the LC-1 and start over.

Man, the Nitrous gauge was much easier.

Jontall

The replacement O2 sensor is a Bosch #17014 and plugs right in. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...sku=18730616-P

danieloneil01

Thanks, exactly what I was looking for.


BTW, I hooked everything back up. Still no current to the LED add on but here's what the Sensor is getting. I checked as close to the O2 sensor as possible. I cut a zip tie off at the base of the O2 sensor and stabbed the wires with my volt meter.


I ran it off the black wire going to the O2 Sensor which is a ground I'm assuming and then ran it on a known good ground and in this case the ground to the Traction Control Button. Car was running during tests.




------------Ground on Traction Control----------Ground on Sensor

White--------------13.45v-----------------------------0v
Green---------------2.48v---------------------------.01v
Gray---------------13.38v--------------------------9.18v
Red-----------------4.98v---------------------------.81v


Black on O2 Sensor to Ground = .785 This number on my meter is on the setting that looks like an Arrow with a cross through it. Only setting that read anything without Over Loading.

Black on O2 Sensor to known good 12v source = 9.54V


Any ideas? I'm now leaning towards my O2 Wideband as working, lol. Something with the wiring? I looked it over and followed the instructions to a T. Maybe I'll try finding a different ground and not actually following the instructions because it says to do all the grounds to the same place which is about 5 wires. And I'm soldering all connections.


I also fowarded this to Abo at SCSS

Jontall

I was told "not to ground it to the chassis", but to ground it to the engine. It's working perfectly.

danieloneil01

Hooked the grounds to a good place and still a no go. So I cut the wires on the O2 Sensor and hooked them up to a 12V source and it does get hot. So I soldered them back together and on the LC-1 with the O2 Sensor disconnected I got readings and none of them read higher than 5v. Jesus what a pain in the ***.


Screw it, I'll just buy a new LC-1 with a new O2 Sensor.