therat1989

I can feel a significant difference between my car today and last night. According to my dynolicious app on my Ipod my car went from 340whp to 315. lol I need a CAI soon and a 180 thermostat. What is the stock thermo on these 6.0's?

Robofuzz

Yeah - I've got some stuff coming from Heatshield Products to hopefully insulate my Volant airbox a lot better. Heatsoak is a PITA on these cars!

therat1989

I'm running to the strip tonight. I plan on parking the car and opening the hood for about 15 minutes before I make a pass.

Death{AW}

iTrader: (6)

make sure to change coolant at least every 3 years. Orange stuff will stop working after 3 years.

impulsegoat

iTrader: (4)

Post up tonight afterwards and let us know how you do. I remember you saying the best you got with the ol' stang was a 8.71. Sorry for the op

slogoat

Keep the hood up and don't idle for too long in the staging lanes. Icing the intake manifold between runs also helps. These cars are very prone to heatsoak.

lemons12

iTrader: (71)

Cars are tuned at operating temps.. running below the first line will usually not yield the best pass.
Heat soak and operating temp is two different things.

LSWONGTO

iTrader: (3)

Look @ the Vector heat soak reduction kit. The IAT sensor sits inside the maf on LS2 cars. Since the Maf housing gets very hot and retains the heat it keeps your IAT sensor reading 20 to 30 degrees higher than ambient. The factory sensor is very, very, very smurfing slow. The vector kit relocate's the IAT sensor to wherever you choose to place it & replaces the retarded stock sensor with a fast acting IAT sensor.

seawolf06

iTrader: (8)

Go with this.

svede1212

iTrader: (3)

I'm a little partial but my intake works awesome for heat and I have a better designed thermistor temp sensor than the HSRK for a cheaper price.

seawolf06

iTrader: (8)

Yes, if you can afford it, the svede intake is another good way to go.

GTOSE

iTrader: (1)

This.

Racing in 90-100 degree heat is a waste of gas anyway IMHO.

Cyris0014

I've got a IAT sensor on my goat and down here in New Mexico its gets to about 120-130 degree's in city driving but when im on the highway it gets down to about 5-10 degrees within the outside temp.

LSWONGTO

iTrader: (3)

Oh I forgot about the svede with your IAT relocate. Its awesome and sits the IAT sensor close to the front grill and the Intake looks great while making more power & getting rid of heatsoak.

ShoddyHog

iTrader: (1)

Since I installed my SVEDE OTRCAI, no more IAT problems...or breathing restrictions.

redtan

iTrader: (5)

Useless. Not only will that not really lower engine temp enough to matter, but engine temp is not really what's causing your power loss. It's air intake temps that's doing so.

You can run your engine at 160* but if you've got sky high air intake temps then it's not going to matter.

Unless you have a supercharger on there than that is also pretty pointless, they are plastic intakes that don't heatsoak. And sure you can ice the plastic and lower temps inside the manifold, but if the air filter is sucking in 140* air then it doesn't matter how much you ice your manifold. The problem with the hot air is at the filter not the manifold.

therat1989

The problem is getting a hold of one. I heard there is a how to guide to make one. I would take on that task for sure if I could find it.

mullet cruizer

iTrader: (1)

My tuner had this same issue, we swapped to a volant CIA and it helped out big time. But I did also notice my car fAlling on it's face when it's hot out

seawolf06

iTrader: (8)

They are pretty easy to get now that WCS has them in stock.

http://www.westcoastspeed.com/zentes...products_id=19

svede1212

iTrader: (3)

Some day when you take your car to the track (and it's not hot out) do a couple of runs and then take the top off the Volant's box and do it again. You'll see a couple of MPH quicker traps without the top. The Volant is fairly restrictive due to that box and the tube.