SvedeSpeed OTRCAI
#1
SvedeSpeed OTRCAI
Not sure if this has been covered yet on here but im new to the GTO game. I have a 2006 Black M6. Currently has an aftermarket MAF, Corsa Exhaust, CAI, and Predator Tune.
Im looking into getting rid of the waste of money CAI and getting a SvedeSpeed OTRCAI. Do i need to get an upgraded IAT? If so what will this benefit for me?
Also does anyone know any shops in the Michigan area that dyno tune LSx engines?
Im looking into getting rid of the waste of money CAI and getting a SvedeSpeed OTRCAI. Do i need to get an upgraded IAT? If so what will this benefit for me?
Also does anyone know any shops in the Michigan area that dyno tune LSx engines?
#3
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Well it was several years ago that I noticed the heat soak with the IAT sensor. I had an electronics background and knew that it was a thermistor and there were faster acting ones. They are rated in time constants. A time constant is like if it was 50* out and the sensor was at 100* what would be the time to get to 63% of the way to ambient (one time constant would be 82* and then another time constant to 70*, etc). It's kind of like radioactive half life. Anyways the stock one was slow (something like 15 seconds) and I found the Omega that had a time constant of 2.5 seconds. Shortly after I published the idea some people copied the upgrade and marketed their versions. The unit I make now besides using the Omega thermistor also is extended out away from the large plastic base which retains heat and places it out into the air flow better. With the intake and sensor it takes a very short time instead of several minutes to get to ambient temp when moving.
Shown with Caspers harness for LS2
#7
have you ever looked into a better IAT sensor for the maggie guys? im not sure what the avaiable depth inside the maggie manifold is......im sure they would be interested in this since we are in a constant IAT battle
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No but it would only take a knowledge of what type of mount and as you say what depth to go. The one I showed above is for my OTRCAI. Maggies guys have a lot to deal with as the air compression multiplies whatever air temp is entering the intake. Getting outside air therefor is even more critical. Mooch over on the "other" board made a nice adapter for the OTR intake.
#9
from what he told me it wont fit an 04' hood.... not to mention the heat exchanger they were using can no longer be had for the for $100 and is now $279..... so its not exactly a cheap upgrade for me
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I'm not sure why an '04 hood would be harder. It's the same shape as a LS2 hood but with MORE room because the scoops are not protruding down. Somebody got the stock heat exchanger to work by dropping it down a little somehow.
#12
do you still have your 04 hood? the support framework on the underside of the hood gets in the way.... where the maggie TB is moved to the underhood structure contacts my stock msggie intake tube as it is.... i guess the 05-06 hood just has more room in that particular spot
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I do still have the '04 hood. The hood "rises" as it goes back and the scoops on the other hood stick down farther. There's lot of LS2 with the intake now. And to your other post yes you'll gain on the street or track. It has less restriction and better IATs. As the other guy had happen a couple of drag racers noted that they could gain by taking the headlight out. This intake will give the same benefit without removing an eyeball.
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I do still have the '04 hood. The hood "rises" as it goes back and the scoops on the other hood stick down farther. There's lot of LS2 with the intake now. And to your other post yes you'll gain on the street or track. It has less restriction and better IATs. As the other guy had happen a couple of drag racers noted that they could gain by taking the headlight out. This intake will give the same benefit without removing an eyeball.
Thanks!
Roel
#17
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The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) When you open your throttle blade during WOT, in ideal conditions, you would want the pressure inside the intake manifold to equal atmosperic air pressure (reading 100) or in the case of a Forced Induction car, higher than atmospheric.
If you have a restrictive intake, when you are at WOT and low RPM, your MAP will jump up to and read 99. As you get higher in the RPM band and your engine is moving a greater volume, that restrictive intake will cause the MAP values to drop steadily indicate that there is vacuum present.
Take the same car with a less restrictive intake, and you will see the MAP values stay up at higher values...preferrably 99 all the way to redline. My old intake was a Volant, and at that RPM, my old MAP value would have been 96 or lower, even with a smaller cam. Now, even with a bigger cam, she's getting all the air that mother nature has to offer.
If you have a restrictive intake, when you are at WOT and low RPM, your MAP will jump up to and read 99. As you get higher in the RPM band and your engine is moving a greater volume, that restrictive intake will cause the MAP values to drop steadily indicate that there is vacuum present.
Take the same car with a less restrictive intake, and you will see the MAP values stay up at higher values...preferrably 99 all the way to redline. My old intake was a Volant, and at that RPM, my old MAP value would have been 96 or lower, even with a smaller cam. Now, even with a bigger cam, she's getting all the air that mother nature has to offer.
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Removing the headlight works, I do it all the time. But the routine does get tiresome after a while. I'm looking in to getting this for my 04. Just one question for. I have the SAP ( Made by Spence ) grills on my GTO and was wondering, Can you see the air filter through the grills? how much is exposed to get that nice ram air effect?
Thanks!
Roel
Thanks!
Roel
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Ya, really easy to do once the bumper is off. I just bent some aluminum sheet metal for the duct tray. Aluminum angle iron was cut with a portion bent forward to fasten to the cross member lip. Then it was trimmed to turn the corner to go around the bottom on the duct tray. It kind of makes a "U" to hold up the back end of the "tray". The bar was covered with stick on foam insulation to cushion and seal against the sides/bottom of the box.
The "duct tray" fitting on the car.
The tray fitted around the OTR box/brace.
After the tray was painted flat back the bumper cover is put back on. You can see the filter up in the back. FWIW I tested this setup and well as a lot of others in the past using scoops and ducts and even up over 100 MPH I noted no increase in manifold pressure (which would indicate "Ram Air"). The advantage of it is as soon as the car gets moving it's pulling in 100% fresh air from in front of the bumper.
In case someone is going to ask, "No, it doesn't affect cooling of the engine". It gets plenty of air from the lower grill and the fans can pull thru air any portion of the radiator and doesn't require a line of sight.
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The "duct tray" fitting on the car.
The tray fitted around the OTR box/brace.
After the tray was painted flat back the bumper cover is put back on. You can see the filter up in the back. FWIW I tested this setup and well as a lot of others in the past using scoops and ducts and even up over 100 MPH I noted no increase in manifold pressure (which would indicate "Ram Air"). The advantage of it is as soon as the car gets moving it's pulling in 100% fresh air from in front of the bumper.
In case someone is going to ask, "No, it doesn't affect cooling of the engine". It gets plenty of air from the lower grill and the fans can pull thru air any portion of the radiator and doesn't require a line of sight.
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