clonedws6

iTrader: (6)

I went to the track about a week ago here in Indiana and ran the gto for the first time since the new mods. Pacesetter LTS and midpipes. Stock on a high 90 low 100 degree day i went 13.6 at 104 with a 2.0 60ft. This time i went i did a 13.7 @105 with a 2.0 and 2.1 60 ft. My problem is when i shift second no matter what i do it wheel hops. I tried different things still the same result. I got fed up and didnt mess with tire pressure, stupid i know. What are you guys doing to get rid of the 2nd gear wheel hopping? I was told drag bags will help. I was wondering if i bought some drag radials if that would take care of it? Car is a 2004 GTO M6 with LTS, MIDS and a slp2 lm catback. Also what do you guys think the car is capable of if i dont wheel hop and have to let out and pedal.

AmishAssassin

iTrader: (2)

Having a 2006 GTO with like modifications, I can say drag bags will help a little. Gforce1320 makes a kit that will give you different size diameter axles that I have heard completely eliminate it. A Harrop rear diff cover will help as well. And don't forget we have a factory two piece driveshaft this should be replaced with a nice one piece unit from either Driveshaft shop or Gforce 1320.
Drag radials will not really help at least they didn't in my case. But I would not recommend putting really sticky tires on with out some drivetrain upgrades.

Regards

J.

clonedws6

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the input. Do you by chance know how much the gforce wheel hop elminiation stuff costs?

svede1212

iTrader: (3)

I think about $800. Drag bags would help a lot and DRs maybe even more. With no spin you will get no hop regardless of other factors. Every tenth at the start will lower the ET about 2 tenths. Still for your mods she seems a little slow. Do you have a slip you can post up or at least the track location, day and times of the runs?

hartman

iTrader: (4)

My 04 M6 i have pedders drag springs and nitto DR's and i still spin/chirp no wheel hop tho into 2nd so your best bet would be drag bags and DR's. IMO mickeys would be the best.

clonedws6

iTrader: (6)

all it really has done is the long tubes lol. stock paper filter even. I was impressed with the 13.6 bone stock. And the only reason i went slower is because of wheel hop the next trip. I was baby shifting and letting in and out in 2nd. And idk the elevation and all that. Its in indiana at muncie so feel free to look it up lol.

If i keep the car i believe I will be doing some drag radials and drag bags to see how it runs a few times then after that i will put the trex in it and spray it lol. Ive done some street runs with my buddys 110 trapping mach 1 and its pretty damn even. I also raced my buddys 112 trapping z28 and he got me by a lil more than a car. So i know its not super slow. I mean it is what it is. A heavy ls1 powered gto with minimal add ons. Im happy how it performs on the street just not on the track just yet.

svede1212

iTrader: (3)

The reason I asked for the date and time too was to look up the Density Altitude (temp, humidity, altitude) so I could ascertain how well you really did. My '04 got 13.39 and trapped ~105 bone stock on stock tires. I was in the 12s @ with LTs & DRs at ~1,000 DA. You may be doing great or maybe not. DAs will tell and drag radials will definitely help you.

clonedws6

iTrader: (6)

It was october 26th I believe

clonedws6

iTrader: (6)

Or the 19th. I can see for sure when I grab the slip

massillongoat

iTrader: (3)

you have luck with a cheap way...I used auto zone coil spring spacers and it seemed to help with the hop. its a temp fix though i'd do suspension work

massillongoat

iTrader: (3)

I had about the same mods..in an a4 car and my car went 13.0s at 108.72

clonedws6

iTrader: (6)

how many did you put in?

svede1212

iTrader: (3)

Coil spring spacers are very hard on the springs. Get the bags and be done with it

gconnoyer

iTrader: (1)

Drag bags and some rubber will get rid of it.

Traction = 0 wheel hop. You don't need to waste $500 on the diff cover, or $1000 on the axles, or $300 on pedders shocks, and bushings, and a bunch of other "fixes" to get rid of wheel hop. Get some sticky tires, hook, and it will be gone.

Next time you go, put a video camera inside and zoom it in on the gauge cluster, and on you so that you can watch and see what you're doing right and/or wrong.

clonedws6

iTrader: (6)

alright thanks for some good input guys!

I was wonder what hp the stock fuel system is good to? Ive heard people say 500 but idk for sure. I had a ms3 gto with stock inj/pump and it ran fine. Reason is im about to order the trex kit off thunder racing and a spec clutch. Just wanted to make sure id be okay with stock inj/pump/. Also will i need the spec 3 or can i go with 2? Thanks alot gto guys

gconnoyer

iTrader: (1)

Mine is at 458/414 (mustang dyno) on the 100% stock fuel system.

The spec 2 would be fine for where you're at now. What are you planning on doing to the car and using it for?

ShoddyHog

iTrader: (1)

+1

Do not get drag radials. Because you are a M6, get M/T ET Street Bias Plys...get 'em good and heated up, and that wheel hop will go away.

clonedws6

iTrader: (6)

Noted hog thank you

I plan to run it at the track a few times. Mostly roll racing on the street though. And Trex/spray. Will the stg2 hold it?

clonedws6

iTrader: (6)

and hog what dimensions would you recommend? I plan on buying another 2 stock gto rims or 2 random 17s to put them on.

svede1212

iTrader: (3)

Most use like a MT 26x10x15 (or 9). The smaller wheel makes for a higher sidewall which flexes and takes up some of the shock from a M6 clutch drop. FWIW I hate Spec and had a 8k miles of life with my Spec 3+. Monster has been a vastly better clutch