ledzepp3

iTrader: (1)

I've noticed that my clutch feels kind of funky ever since I got the car, plus it doesn't really like how quickly I shift I've been wanting to modify the car from the beginning anyways, but for now I can only do some really light mods.

I've been debating between an LS7 clutch and a Monster L2 clutch, but which ever one would get a new slave, master, and clutch line. I'm also looking to get one of the new Hinson 800HP single piece drives hafts with a standard yoke in preparation for mods down the line.

I'd like to do a basic CAI, a clutch, a drive shaft, and maybe a set of catback exhaust (looking towards SLP Loudmouth II).

What do you guys think about the clutch and these mods?

svede1212

iTrader: (3)

Exhaust is a waste of money for power. You'd be much, much better off putting that towards long tube headers. You'll get power, lay the groundwork for future mods and get a bump in volume. Take a look at the Xair intake. Good bang for the buck. As far a clutch the Monster 2 or any other like clutch will take you further than the LS7 and have less rotational mass which helps effective power. The slave and remote bleeder are a must, the clutch line a nice addition and the master usually unnecessary. Once again you'd be netter off getting a shifter instead of the master. Stay away from the Hurst and B&M shifters. The McLeod Qwik Stik and MGW-P are good and cost effective. You'll see a lot of people swear by the MGW-P but frankly the McLeod is just as good and cheaper. You'd also save a bit and be fine with the 800 hp DSS shaft. I've been running on their lowest end shaft for years and I'm near 500 RWHP and their support is sterling.

ledzepp3

iTrader: (1)

I've heard about people having issues with slow slave cylinders after doing a stronger clutch swap, and thank you for the advice on the Monster vs. LS7 clutch!

Curiosity here, how much louder do you think the exhaust would be after doing a long tube swap with the stock system from the cats back? The cops where I live don't exactly like cars that loud especially at night, which is when I work. And I've seen the XAir intake so I'll definitely look into that!

Thanks svede!

svede1212

iTrader: (3)

The slave isn't any slower after a swap. The pedal sometimes gets heavier from stronger pressure plate springs but a "higher flow" master makes the pedal even heavier as the hydraulic leveraging is lessened to get the increased flow. If you measure your slave to PP tolerance to see if you need a shim the stock one works great. Some of that internet wisdom is from fbodies that had a restrictor in the master. Ours does not.

Long tubes will be louder but not a large amount if you keep the stock mufflers or if you replace them someday with one of the quieter ones like Magnaflow or Borla. SLP catbacks on the other hand are very loud.

2QWK4RU 06 GOAT

iTrader: (1)

A lot if times, swapping out to a aftermarket master kit will help with everything from feel to shifting. The problem is there is one highly engineered kit and not everyone gets it. I designed that kit many years ago. The stock master would be fine if the piston wasn't plastic and the seals were designed more efficiently. Once you bring heat into the system, the oem master changes from when in the original cold state. That's when problems can manifest and issues arise. So at the end of the day, a proper master kit will do much better, whether you're having issues or not.

Shoot me a pm, I'll help you design a truly reliable and great feeling system.

Dyno Junkie

Not sure of price or availabity in the USA, however Xtreme ceramic twin plate has a lighter pedal than the standard clutch.
Also I still don't see the need to change to a single piece tailshaft.

ledzepp3

iTrader: (1)

They have a not-so-great two piece shaft from the factory that doesn't like power that much from what I understand.

As for the catback, I was looking at the Loudmouth II. I don't like the raspy tone that the original LM gives. I guess the Hinson shaft it is, but it will be a while before I start to order parts- so I'll be here asking more questions...

GSAWYERS

Where to start. A quality exhaust doesn't add much but looks and sound, that being said, Ive had a 2.5in MagnaFlow catback with xpipe for 9 years and can attest to it's quality and reasonable sound levels. Long tubes made a bigger difference than the exhaust, I used Kooks 1 3/4, Jet Hot coated and wrapped, with catted mids(recently changed to catless), quality and performance are great. For a driveshaft, I got a DSS carbon fiber(direct fit), once again, quality and performance are great. For a clutch, I used a Mcleod RST, couldn't be happier with it. For the shifter I cheaped out and got a Lou's Short Stick with a Hurst ball, not the greatest but it's an improvement over stock. For the intake I went with a Vararam otrcai with a custom 100mm id aluminum pipe to replace the MAF. F-body IAT installed in the back of the filter and modded the harness myself, I also insulated the bottom of the Vararam tray. This setup(with self ported stock intake and TB) with a good SD tune drives great, gets mid to upper 20's mpg on the highway, does 400+rwhp and feels stronger than the numbers suggests. Good power everywhere and no odd drivability issues. I also took a couple hundred pounds of fat out of the car. It's fast, fun and reliable.

ledzepp3

iTrader: (1)

I really want to get it setup for more power down the road or give me an excuse to dump the clutch on the backroads to **** off some deer

I think the right choice for me is the Hinson shaft. It's right in my price range and it'll give me a little extra money to put towards fixing whatever I break whenever I hoon the thing out in the country. Does anyone have experience with fiberglass or carbon fiber hoods for goats? One of the other things I'd love to do is lighten the car up without totally gutting the interior.

blackbyrd

iTrader: (14)

Funny I always hated how borla sounded, but for whatever reason I love it on my my GTO. I think the power gain is marginal at best but it does sound great with the longtubes and no cats