640hp N/A road race Goat nears completion (details inside) - Page 3 - LS1TECH



Pontiac GTO 2004-2006 The Modern Goat

640hp N/A road race Goat nears completion (details inside)

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Old 03-08-2016, 10:00 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by Vindictive View Post
Amazing thread and write up! I miss my 06 GTO

That OTR cai is the sexiest piece ive ever seen!

i wish my 05 CTS V had enough room for something like that!
Thank you! I spent a lot of time and planning and [eventually] money to get the best intake for my setup. The Svedes were no longer available and the Du looks outstanding. Definite eye catcher when I open the hood for people. Makes a highly modded car look very OEM, much like the microsuede Forza seats that match the stock interior. :-)

What did you replace your 06 Goat with? The 05 CTS-V? Or a different car?
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Old 04-04-2016, 10:24 PM   #42
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Thank you for sharing your build! I have an 05 that I am working on and I echo your comments about the suspension. The car handles good for a heavy stock car but I I keep dreaming about how great it could be with a few well though out modifications.

I am about done with the suspension bushings, am waiting on the Koni adjustable shocks and after reading your write up, the Lovells springs. My car is more of a canyon carver than track star so I do not want to get too crazy with the mods.

I am running the stock 17" rims but have the Falken Azenis rt-615k tires and they really transformed the car!

What do you have the alignment settings at? Are you running a stock setup or something you care to share?

I will also add one modification that I made which made driving much smoother for me. I was never able to heel/toe drive this car so I added a pedal for some help.

Thanks again for taking the time to share your experiences.
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Old 05-21-2016, 01:13 PM   #43
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Thank you for sharing your build! I have an 05 that I am working on and I echo your comments about the suspension. The car handles good for a heavy stock car but I I keep dreaming about how great it could be with a few well though out modifications.

I am about done with the suspension bushings, am waiting on the Koni adjustable shocks and after reading your write up, the Lovells springs. My car is more of a canyon carver than track star so I do not want to get too crazy with the mods.

I am running the stock 17" rims but have the Falken Azenis rt-615k tires and they really transformed the car!

What do you have the alignment settings at? Are you running a stock setup or something you care to share?

I will also add one modification that I made which made driving much smoother for me. I was never able to heel/toe drive this car so I added a pedal for some help.

Thanks again for taking the time to share your experiences.



Sorry for the delayed response! I have some updates to add to this thread for the car but I've been slammed working 80hr weeks at 2 jobs since March 4th.

I didn't think anyone would care about my alignment specs.

Front is -2.0* camber: the most I could fit and still have .060-.080" clearance between the fattest section of my 255/40 front tires and the coilover body. I have no camber wear on the inner shoulders, even running this setting on the street...partly because I never slow down in corners (usually the opposite).

Rear is -0.75 to -1.25* camber (I'd have to recheck the sheet). I raised it up as high as I could to fit the 285/40 NT05R DRs I ran this year, but they still rubbed my cut fenders, so I removed them. The added ride height cost me some rear camber, but gave me the most possible contact patch out back for launching and traction. Therefore, I kept it.

Car would settle better in corners if I dropped the *** back down 6-8mm, but my fat Kooks headers hang down like a donkey d**k and I hate speed bumps, soo...

I love being able to hook up in 2nd again on the street. I can now dead hook in 2nd on 10.5" wide Michelin PSS rear rubber once I have some heat in them. These tires actually ride better than the Nitto NT05Rs did, fit without rubbing, and stick like glue once you warm them.

They were $240/ea before road hazard warranty, which is amost $70 cheaper than what I paid for the Nittos. Anyone wanna buy some 11.5" wide DRs?

I'd have to dig up my most recent alignment sheet from Firestone to tell you the toe settings. I left toe to the alignment guy, I believe -0.25 to -0.5* front toe, and rear almost 0*.

End result, car feels much better on center than it ever has...Hinson motor mounts were a huge help, and the Michelin PSS really bring the package together. They reduce a ton of the coilovers' harshness on the street, stick like glue, and smile at rain like champs.

More than you asked, just explaining everything.
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Old 05-21-2016, 01:23 PM   #44
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Pending write-ups and happenings with the car...

5/5 just came and went. Porkchop is now 11 and still gets frequent compliments. Front bumper just got repainted thanks to a DWF in San Marcos back in February (driving while female). Teenage girl on cell phone in parking lot hit parked GTO. Genius award.

My coolant leak of the last two years has been traced down. First it was a failed radiator cap. Replaced cap. Problem was reduced, coolant was still being lost. Hoses and WP gaskets are relatively new. No visible coolant under car. Pressure tested system this week. Front of radiator (inside bumper area) leaks like a weeping man...




New Mishimoto aluminum radiator ordered. Stock radiator made it almost 75k miles before this happened, chilling a nasty stroker motor and handling Texas summers, road trips, and road racing. I'm not at all unhappy.


Driveline vibrations...been going on for almost two years. Solved that chit, too.

Trans mount was replaced two years ago, but stock style rubber, and it sags/collapsed so much that it was throwing off my driveline angle. Poor car! Vibrations ended up rattling the mounting bolts loose. Shame on me for not using blue Loctite.

I shimmed the trans back up to the correct angle, Loctited the two b*tch-bolts, and took car out for test drive this past week. Smoothest it has been in YEARS!!!




Front StopTech slotted brake rotors finally gave out. Front right is warped pretty bad. Ordered up some stock style replacements online that have a 2yr warranty, which I will most certainly use in the next 12-18mo... :p

Going from 165 down to 80 at TWS into Turn 1 when I was green ultimately killed the rotors. I think I can make the next ones last much longer.

Gonna flush brake system, resurface the pads, and hopefully have a smooth brake system that no longer shudders like Michael J Fox on a bad week.




Trunk-mounted battery...Optima Red Top took a dive from the car not being driven enough, and at the time I didn't have a tender. My fault entirely.

After Red Top, I had a flooded style 24F battery that leaked acid into trunk under hard driving. I forgot how hard my car can corner, and its effects of things like batteries and oil systems. I have to clean out trunk today before the acid eats my trunk flooring like the blood from the movie Aliens. God bless the acid neutralizer I keep in a spray can for repairs and terminal cleanings.

I also replaced my ugly, failed, leaking PS reservoir with clear/blue one from a 2009 G8 GT. Awesome mod for $45. Underhood look is nearly complete, and it included a fresh PS cap since my old one was allowing PS fluid to slosh onto my pretty fender and scalding hot longtubes...embarrassing auto-x day.

#oldcarproblems

I will post some videos soon. Finally got some good passenger-reaction videos from the GoPro. Lovely ladies and terrified, giddy men experiencing the launch of this car at low speeds.

Thanks for reading (those of you who made it this far or appreciate the build)!


Last edited by Stang2Goat; 05-21-2016 at 01:29 PM.
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Old 05-21-2016, 01:38 PM   #45
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So to recap, upcoming mods/repairs/improvements:

New front radiator, sexy as fak and super functional:


New front rotors

Selling off my prized Corbeau Forza microsuedes:



Replacing them with...




Corbeau LG1 microsuede, adding heated seat option.

I'm old. These still only weigh 26# per seat, which is nine pounds more than my Forzas, and will support my old, broken back a LOT better. I miss being able to recline my seats on road trips and take naps in the car. Don't judge me...

For reference, the stock Goat seats weigh 67# each, btw, and sit way too high in the car. Ask a tall Goat owner. They'll tell you. Hitting your head in the a-pillar getting in and out and having your helmet rub the headliner...not cool, brah.


Lastly, this will likely find its way under my trans...




Hinson trans mount. 80A durometer polyurethane, basically same hardness as my suspension bushings. Won't rattle my teeth out...will give me much better control when shifting at 7000rpm during the big pulls.






That is all. Vids to come. Stay tuned!

Last edited by Stang2Goat; 05-21-2016 at 01:45 PM.
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Old 05-22-2016, 01:57 AM   #46
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Keep up the good work!
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Old 05-23-2016, 08:11 AM   #47
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One of the best mods I did to my 95 camaro was a electric water pump, bigger radiator, 160* thermostat and manual fan switch.

It may see 200* (reverse cooling system) on a 75* autocross day getting about 20 60sec runs. Every time I come into grid, the hood goes up, I leave it KOEO and flip the fan switch. Within 10min I can drop coolant temps 10-15*. Now I need to address oil temps....when I see sub 10psi oil pressure I know the oil is getting toasty.

For you, I hear the EWP is quite pricey on a LS motors AND for road racing it is not optimal from a RPM/flow perspective.
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Old 05-26-2016, 02:59 PM   #48
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Great job on the car man, you've got a monster there.
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Old 03-15-2017, 04:49 PM   #49
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Thanks for sharing the story of your goat. I am the new owner of a roller 04 goat, so basically a clean slate for this project car. Your build history and what you would do differently now in retrospect is very nice to know when approaching a fresh build. I came from a heavy *** CTSV that I wish I would have spent more on suspension instead of power mods as well. Plans for the project now are 416 stroker iron block with LS3 top end (heads and intake). I don't think I'm going to go too crazy with the NA power, 550hp should be easily attainable and focus on ride quality, weight savings, and aesthetics. Thanks again for the words of wisdom.
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Old 03-18-2017, 10:14 PM   #50
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Been a while since I've touched this (that is also what she said...)

Porkchop had a pristine Monster LT1-SC twin disc since 9/2014, and a new ACDelco slave. Both were faultless, though the SC was pretty grabby and most folks couldn't drive it.

i stiill had issues with 4th gear lockout above 5000rpm. 1-3 were fine, 4th would lock me out and 5th would often grind but would engage.

Trans was a level 2 T56 rebuilt by a local fella in 2011 who only does T56s. "I wish I knew then about trannies what I do now..." -Bruce Jenner

For the last couple years, unbeknownst to me, My input shaft bearing was toast. Input shaft had a lot more play than it should have. This was ultimately responsible for my higher rpm shift problems, especially with fourth year. It was also responsible for destroying a perfectly good GM pilot bearing within 4000 miles of occasional driving and some racing.

End result from the fiesta of needle bearings is was a destroyed clutch, slave, pilot bearing, and a trans that had to be rebuilt. I work hard for my money, but lost $3k on this deal.

If we're being honest and assigning blame, I should have learned more about inspecting input shaft play to prevent this. #neveragain

So now for some good news… Steve @ Monster ultimately came through and made me a wonderful deal on a replacement clutch to control my losses. New clutch is the LT1– S and has some very cool features I will post it here in photos.

I was also able to resolve a lot of little drivetrain issues I've been discovering while the car's apart.
Driveshaft has been completely rebuilt with a fresh carrier bearing a new donuts. I ordered up a Stang shifter gasket to help the shifter vibrations, sourced a new shift handle.

The trans received a host of upgrades that should also help me significantly. A C6 style Corvette breather tube was installed (stock one was worn and toasted), along with a bronze shifter cup into the shift rod.

This time the transmission was built front to back, from the input shaft to a brand-new billet mainshaft, along with several fresh gears, and some even higher quality billet keys than I had before. Jason and Chase at TDP worked with me by phone to plan out having the parts in stock so that I can drive up there to Fort Worth with the transmission, have the rebuild done in a few hours, and drive back home in a single day. I was completely exhausted but it was all over, but also relieved to know that my transmission is finally done correctly.

Last edited by Stang2Goat; 03-18-2017 at 10:32 PM. Reason: iPhone fail
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Old 03-18-2017, 10:39 PM   #51
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This really should be sent from my computer and not my cell phone… [facepalm]

So now the entire drivetrain from the engine to the rear pinion flange has been refreshed or replaced...again.

I'm excited to feel the improvements from the fresh trans and rebuilt DS. My stock donuts were holding fine, but they were heat cycled to hell and harder than a teenager on Cialis.

Carrier bearing was on its way out, but looked and felt good for 85k miles, 11yrs in the Texas climate, and 1000+ race passes.

Finishing up the install this week and hope to have the smoothest 7000 RPM shifts this car has ever experienced. :-o

Will post more pics as they become available.

Thank you everyone who has helped or been helped by this thread!

Please shoot me an email if you have any car related questions for me: detailaddicts@gmail.com

or check out the website: www.goatautomotive.com

Cheers!

-S2G
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Old 03-20-2017, 09:34 AM   #52
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Hey Michael! How goes it? Looks like you have been having fun building her up some more. The weather has been perfect lately, hopefully I can pull mine out from the back of the shop soon and put some miles on her.
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Old 03-20-2017, 11:06 AM   #53
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What's the reason for sticking with a 2pc driveshaft? Why not go 1 pc and never worry about center carrier bearing again?

Looking forward to pics/update
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