Lifting the engine with a hoist to change the motor mounts on a 2004 GTO
08-31-2015, 12:10 PM
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Lifting the engine with a hoist to change the motor mounts on a 2004 GTO Greetings!
So I got me a 2 ton engine hoist from Harbor Freight to lift the engine up to change the stock engine mounts and replace them with the RevShift 95a (green) mounts. The transmission will of course be attached to the engine when I do this.
Right now the tranny is supported by a jack because I'm changing the trans mount too (I bought a new OEM mount and filled it up with windo weld). Cross member is off the tranny at the moment.
Question is : Is it better (or is it ok) to lift the engine with the hoist from the top while the tranny is still supported by the jack with the cross member off off ? reason I ask this is not sure if I get more movement on the engine (up and down) if the trans is not supported by the cross member (because I can lower the tranny more than crossmember level to maybe give more room for the engine to go up.
Main thing I'm afraid of is when I lift up the engine is to make sure the transmission and engine are both balanced.... in other words I don't want to pull on the engine if the trans doesn't go any more up to put pressure at their connection points.
My next question would be how much you can lift it with the hoist from the top without pulling too much on it...2"-3" ?...or if I lift too much from the top it will also start lifting the frame too once it can't lift anymore?
Also can you twist the engine with the tranny attached to it? like lift from one side?
I know these may be stupid questions because I'm aware they're suppose to move around but just want to know the limits of doing so I don't break anything.
Any help or pointers would be appreciated.
Thanks
Chris
So I got me a 2 ton engine hoist from Harbor Freight to lift the engine up to change the stock engine mounts and replace them with the RevShift 95a (green) mounts. The transmission will of course be attached to the engine when I do this.
Right now the tranny is supported by a jack because I'm changing the trans mount too (I bought a new OEM mount and filled it up with windo weld). Cross member is off the tranny at the moment.
Question is : Is it better (or is it ok) to lift the engine with the hoist from the top while the tranny is still supported by the jack with the cross member off off ? reason I ask this is not sure if I get more movement on the engine (up and down) if the trans is not supported by the cross member (because I can lower the tranny more than crossmember level to maybe give more room for the engine to go up.
Main thing I'm afraid of is when I lift up the engine is to make sure the transmission and engine are both balanced.... in other words I don't want to pull on the engine if the trans doesn't go any more up to put pressure at their connection points.
My next question would be how much you can lift it with the hoist from the top without pulling too much on it...2"-3" ?...or if I lift too much from the top it will also start lifting the frame too once it can't lift anymore?
Also can you twist the engine with the tranny attached to it? like lift from one side?
I know these may be stupid questions because I'm aware they're suppose to move around but just want to know the limits of doing so I don't break anything.
Any help or pointers would be appreciated.
Thanks
Chris
08-31-2015, 02:58 PM
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First thing Ill say is
I changed my motor mounts on a 2 post lift, jacking the engine up with the mounts on bolted and changed them from the bottom. Didnt have the tranny undone or the exhuast and had enough clearance to get the job done (hinson mounts). with the way i did it you could only go up so much before hitting the transmission tunnel and starting to lift the car as opposed to lifting the motor.
So I say all that to say its doable
the way you are doing it I would have a few concerns. putting stress on the exhaust system or worse putting stress where the manifolds bolt to the heads, if you dont undo them at the collector/ cats as im not sure what type of exhuast you have and you havnt mentioned doing the above. The other issue would be drive shaft still being attached to the tranny. Since its a 2 piece shaft you could likely undo the center bearing mount and get enough play to negate this issue or remove it from the tranny (this will be messy since fluid will come out the tail shaft if you pitch the tranny enough.)
the other limiter would be radiator hoses and power steering connections (cant remember how much play you have).
I think if the tranny was free floating (mount out but still resting on the crossmember) and you lifted the engine off the mounts and the cradle you should have plenty of space without having to lift the engine that far. As I said I did it without disconnecting anything other than the motor mounts themselves.
I changed my motor mounts on a 2 post lift, jacking the engine up with the mounts on bolted and changed them from the bottom. Didnt have the tranny undone or the exhuast and had enough clearance to get the job done (hinson mounts). with the way i did it you could only go up so much before hitting the transmission tunnel and starting to lift the car as opposed to lifting the motor.
So I say all that to say its doable
the way you are doing it I would have a few concerns. putting stress on the exhaust system or worse putting stress where the manifolds bolt to the heads, if you dont undo them at the collector/ cats as im not sure what type of exhuast you have and you havnt mentioned doing the above. The other issue would be drive shaft still being attached to the tranny. Since its a 2 piece shaft you could likely undo the center bearing mount and get enough play to negate this issue or remove it from the tranny (this will be messy since fluid will come out the tail shaft if you pitch the tranny enough.)
the other limiter would be radiator hoses and power steering connections (cant remember how much play you have).
I think if the tranny was free floating (mount out but still resting on the crossmember) and you lifted the engine off the mounts and the cradle you should have plenty of space without having to lift the engine that far. As I said I did it without disconnecting anything other than the motor mounts themselves.
08-31-2015, 04:06 PM
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First thing Ill say is
I changed my motor mounts on a 2 post lift, jacking the engine up with the mounts on bolted and changed them from the bottom. Didnt have the tranny undone or the exhuast and had enough clearance to get the job done (hinson mounts). with the way i did it you could only go up so much before hitting the transmission tunnel and starting to lift the car as opposed to lifting the motor.
So I say all that to say its doable
the way you are doing it I would have a few concerns. putting stress on the exhaust system or worse putting stress where the manifolds bolt to the heads, if you dont undo them at the collector/ cats as im not sure what type of exhuast you have and you havnt mentioned doing the above. The other issue would be drive shaft still being attached to the tranny. Since its a 2 piece shaft you could likely undo the center bearing mount and get enough play to negate this issue or remove it from the tranny (this will be messy since fluid will come out the tail shaft if you pitch the tranny enough.)
the other limiter would be radiator hoses and power steering connections (cant remember how much play you have).
I think if the tranny was free floating (mount out but still resting on the crossmember) and you lifted the engine off the mounts and the cradle you should have plenty of space without having to lift the engine that far. As I said I did it without disconnecting anything other than the motor mounts themselves.
I changed my motor mounts on a 2 post lift, jacking the engine up with the mounts on bolted and changed them from the bottom. Didnt have the tranny undone or the exhuast and had enough clearance to get the job done (hinson mounts). with the way i did it you could only go up so much before hitting the transmission tunnel and starting to lift the car as opposed to lifting the motor.
So I say all that to say its doable
the way you are doing it I would have a few concerns. putting stress on the exhaust system or worse putting stress where the manifolds bolt to the heads, if you dont undo them at the collector/ cats as im not sure what type of exhuast you have and you havnt mentioned doing the above. The other issue would be drive shaft still being attached to the tranny. Since its a 2 piece shaft you could likely undo the center bearing mount and get enough play to negate this issue or remove it from the tranny (this will be messy since fluid will come out the tail shaft if you pitch the tranny enough.)
the other limiter would be radiator hoses and power steering connections (cant remember how much play you have).
I think if the tranny was free floating (mount out but still resting on the crossmember) and you lifted the engine off the mounts and the cradle you should have plenty of space without having to lift the engine that far. As I said I did it without disconnecting anything other than the motor mounts themselves.
I have no power steering so no issues with the lines or anything (ps pump and reservoir and lines are all out so its all empty there).
The exhaust comes out of the sides and i can disconnect the side pipes so the exhaust would be just the header, cat and the 8" reducer. (see the pics)
The driveshaft is a DSS one piece so no middle pulley.
The radiator hoses all look ok to stretch a few inches...only hose that's more tight is one of the A/c hoses on the pass side but that moves a bit too so its not an issue
I don't think I would have to loosen the header bolts no? the only thing I noticed is the driver's side header is very close to the steering rack shaft but looks like that can clear it if I turn the wheels till the steering knuckle screw stays away the furthest from the header.
so I guess if I pull the engine up straight my only concern would be the transmission tunnel..so I can lift it till' I see it hits the tunnel which should be high enough to pull the stock motor mounts out right?
08-31-2015, 04:12 PM
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Also one more thing I wanted to clear up.... I see on the rear passanger side of the engine a Hook that is elevated... this is where I'm thinking is good hooking point for the rear of the motor right ? . If I use that along with a hook on the driver side front of head (by the power steering) would that be a good way to connect the chain and lift it ?
Thank You
Chris
Thank You
Chris
08-31-2015, 06:27 PM
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Also one more thing I wanted to clear up.... I see on the rear passanger side of the engine a Hook that is elevated... this is where I'm thinking is good hooking point for the rear of the motor right ? . If I use that along with a hook on the driver side front of head (by the power steering) would that be a good way to connect the chain and lift it ?
Thank You
Chris
Thank You
Chris
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09-01-2015, 12:35 PM
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I read that's another way of doing. I initially started tryin that but my driveway is not leveled and i used a lil scissors lift for transmission rated at 450lbs with the block of wood but it started archin weird when i began to lift so i stopped. Got the 2 ton engine hoist from Harbor Freight for $179 instead as i wanted one for future use anyways. Will see how this works and i will update with pics.... i also have this 1/4" thick 3" x 22" block of steel that i plan on drilling tonight 3 holes and attach the hoist and 2 pieces of short chains to be able to lift even from 2 points.
09-01-2015, 03:57 PM
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09-09-2015, 03:13 PM
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Probably too late to help you: When I replaced my mounts I just took the weight off and unbolted the brackets from the block. No stress on any lines, hoses or exhaust.