275/40/17 on a goat
#22
12 Second Club
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Springs are not any kind of answer to rub. Having too stiff of spring for street driving and jacking up the rear both degrade handling and tire contact. The tire should clear under full compression if necessary and as noted above the entire rear cradle can move under cornering and hard acceleration. All of the bushings (subframe, inner control arm and outer control arm) stiffen up cradle movement so that with proper tire and offset wheel you never get any rub. You also get better tire wear as well.
When I set up the back I first disconnected the shock and removed the spring so I could articulate the wheel through the entire arc of motion. Then with good clearances during that test the bushings took care of any major deviation from that.
When I set up the back I first disconnected the shock and removed the spring so I could articulate the wheel through the entire arc of motion. Then with good clearances during that test the bushings took care of any major deviation from that.
#23
I agree. Now understand that some may not be so concerned with corner carving as they may be with straight-line acceleration. A car intended to go straight doesn't need to handle on rails & center of gravity & lift point of the suspension will vary.
I personally have had mustangs that were not corner carvers. They were intended to hook, pull the wheels & go straight. I cared less about cornering than how it grabbed out of the hole.
As it stands now this GTO is way more than I am used to in the handling perspective. Going from a pig-on-roller-skates blazer to this is night & day. I don't want to degrade the handling too much, but it wouldn't hurt my feelings if it didn't handle quite as well & had more weight transfer. I wont be pushing it to low 1.4 60's like my last stang, so I want to retain some handling characteristics.
I just want the most rubber out back I can easily fit & I have ran 1.50 60's on drag radials before so I know it is enough tire once I get the chassis tuned & learn to launch it.
Also,I am no stranger to building my own suspension components if need be.
I personally have had mustangs that were not corner carvers. They were intended to hook, pull the wheels & go straight. I cared less about cornering than how it grabbed out of the hole.
As it stands now this GTO is way more than I am used to in the handling perspective. Going from a pig-on-roller-skates blazer to this is night & day. I don't want to degrade the handling too much, but it wouldn't hurt my feelings if it didn't handle quite as well & had more weight transfer. I wont be pushing it to low 1.4 60's like my last stang, so I want to retain some handling characteristics.
I just want the most rubber out back I can easily fit & I have ran 1.50 60's on drag radials before so I know it is enough tire once I get the chassis tuned & learn to launch it.
Also,I am no stranger to building my own suspension components if need be.
#24
I currently race on Mickey Thompson 265/40/18 on factory 18" x 8" wheels.
I've also previously managed to fit M&H 275/45/18 on the same wheels under the back end.
With big convertor the Monaro managed several 1.52 60' times on the Mickey Thompson's.
I've also previously managed to fit M&H 275/45/18 on the same wheels under the back end.
With big convertor the Monaro managed several 1.52 60' times on the Mickey Thompson's.
#27
Crate LS3
CompCam 231 239 .617" .624" 113
Pushrods
Patriot Gold dual valve springs
Double row timing chain
25% UDP
RCR AirRam inlet manifold
90mm throttle body
RamJet OTRCAI
Pacemaker 1 7/8" 4 into 1 with 3" collectors with 2 7/8" spiral
#28
Staging Lane
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Dagsboro, DE
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I'm changing the suspension to fix the suspension. The fact that the rub will be eliminated is a desirable side effect.