How easy does a gto rear break compared to a f-body
#2
The rears on these cars are very stout IMO. It seems the M6 guys are not breaking their rears till 550RWHP with some very sticky tires. I would assume the A4's would be able to take 600-650RWHP.
A bud of mine with an auto GTO with a cam set up with nitrous making around 650-700RWTQ is still going strong with his stock rear end... of course the tranny has had to be replaced a few times .
A bud of mine with an auto GTO with a cam set up with nitrous making around 650-700RWTQ is still going strong with his stock rear end... of course the tranny has had to be replaced a few times .
#5
Originally Posted by TAwhore
what about BMR trying to sell all of this drive train stuff, saying that the drive shaft and axel stubs are weak?
The first thing to go would probably be the DS rubber/metal piece that connects the DS to the rear end (the yoke I believe it's called). After that probably the CV stubs and then the CV shafts. IMO
I personaly do not know anyone that has broken there rear or DS... even with pushing some pretty good power. Though I have read about 2-3 people breaking the CV stubs/shafts. Hell there is a 9 second GTO with the stock DS (not sure about rear end), while BMR says the DS is the first weakest link? I like BMR but I don't believe everything they say.
As far as things like this goes I see it as if it's not broken don't fix it IMO.
#6
BMR with through some breakage when they built their own GTO and upped the horsepower, that is showcased on their website. This is how many of the parts they offer for the GTO were developed.
The airbags they sell seem to really help out the most with wheelhop. Wheelhop is the number one reason these rear-ends fail. Bob
The airbags they sell seem to really help out the most with wheelhop. Wheelhop is the number one reason these rear-ends fail. Bob
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#8
Originally Posted by TAwhore
so over all, their drive train is well bulit...
Also as said in most cases when something does break it's probably do to wheel hop and not cuz of too much power. I'm going to be smart and do some more suspension upgrades befor I upgrade to even more power (radius rod bushings, rear crossmember bushings, rear diff insert & stiffer coils/springs). I'm not worried about the rear breaking due to too much power but more of wheel hop... so I'll try to get as much of it out as I can even though I have little to none as it is. The stock 4L65E (well it has a shift kit, Yank SS & cooler) should be fine for many more miles to come as well
#12
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no combination of drag bags, noltec diff insert, harrop cover, springs, etc completely eliminates it altho they do help. sticky tires and launching skills are still the best mods to date.