Video - 3/25/2012 HPDE Motorsport Ranch Cresson TX 3.1mi track
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Video - 3/25/2012 HPDE Motorsport Ranch Cresson TX 3.1mi track
Ahhh... it felt good to get back on the track. Had been since July (boo!) My 1st time running the 3.1mi configuration, but I've run the 1.7mi twice in this direction, and twice the opposite direction. Cool thing was I was cleared for solo by the end of Saturday so ran that way all day Sunday. This is still a daily driver so I'm fairly conservative with it, but it's getting fun and quite predictable. Feeling less of a desire to tweak it. First time on the track with an oil temp gauge and fears were confirmed... it gets HOT (280+ in about 3 laps)
Met a lot of people this weekend too... it was just all around a fun weekend.
Mark.
http://youtu.be/cRCZrnIZCOg
Met a lot of people this weekend too... it was just all around a fun weekend.
Mark.
http://youtu.be/cRCZrnIZCOg
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Agreed!
A Setrab fan pack has been on my shortlist for a while now. I'll be running Texas World Speedway in June and I plan to have some sort of an oil cooling solution on it by then.
Mark.
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Where are you measuring oil temps?
One piece of coaching advice, if you don't mind ...
Wait till you are just about ready to roll back on the throttle before the heel-toe-downshift. You don't have to zing the motor and it helps reduce brake wheel hop.
Look specifically at entry to Little Bend ...
As your speed and agressiveness increases, the liklihood of a wheel hop event increases and the more it will affect your car control.
It takes quick hands, but once you get the rhythm down, it will shave seconds off your lap times.
One piece of coaching advice, if you don't mind ...
Wait till you are just about ready to roll back on the throttle before the heel-toe-downshift. You don't have to zing the motor and it helps reduce brake wheel hop.
Look specifically at entry to Little Bend ...
As your speed and agressiveness increases, the liklihood of a wheel hop event increases and the more it will affect your car control.
It takes quick hands, but once you get the rhythm down, it will shave seconds off your lap times.
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I tapped the stock adapter above the oil filter for the AutoMeter sender.
Besides just wanting to look cool (right... ) one of the main reasons I post these is for feedback. Advice is always welcome!
Deja vu... https://ls1tech.com/forums/road-raci...irst-spin.html
So far I haven't ventured into the heel-toe realm just yet. I've tried it on the street (never on the track yet) and it has always felt VERY awkward. I haven't written it off yet. Just biting off small chunks each time, and this weekend was left-foot braking... and learning a new track!
Mark.
Besides just wanting to look cool (right... ) one of the main reasons I post these is for feedback. Advice is always welcome!
Wait till you are just about ready to roll back on the throttle before the heel-toe-downshift. You don't have to zing the motor and it helps reduce brake wheel hop.
Look specifically at entry to Little Bend ...
As your speed and agressiveness increases, the liklihood of a wheel hop event increases and the more it will affect your car control.
It takes quick hands, but once you get the rhythm down, it will shave seconds off your lap times.
Look specifically at entry to Little Bend ...
As your speed and agressiveness increases, the liklihood of a wheel hop event increases and the more it will affect your car control.
It takes quick hands, but once you get the rhythm down, it will shave seconds off your lap times.
So far I haven't ventured into the heel-toe realm just yet. I've tried it on the street (never on the track yet) and it has always felt VERY awkward. I haven't written it off yet. Just biting off small chunks each time, and this weekend was left-foot braking... and learning a new track!
Mark.
#7
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That's a place where a lot of folks get their temps.
I always felt like a true indication of the oil temps was in the sump. It's after the oil has drained down through the motor and a large quantity of oil to take a larger sample.
I removed the oil level sensor and jumpered the wire plug. The light on the dash is just looking for continuity.
Found a metric plug to screw into the hole, then drilled and tapped the plug, inserted the sensor.
H-T is a learned trait and has to be practiced all the time. The street is a great place to practice.
I've seen talented race car drivers use their feet with as much finesse and coordination as they do their hands. It's and inspiring sight to see.
I always felt like a true indication of the oil temps was in the sump. It's after the oil has drained down through the motor and a large quantity of oil to take a larger sample.
I removed the oil level sensor and jumpered the wire plug. The light on the dash is just looking for continuity.
Found a metric plug to screw into the hole, then drilled and tapped the plug, inserted the sensor.
H-T is a learned trait and has to be practiced all the time. The street is a great place to practice.
I've seen talented race car drivers use their feet with as much finesse and coordination as they do their hands. It's and inspiring sight to see.
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An absolute Blast! I have a feeling I could run that one multiple times and never get tired of it!
I've read a lot of arguements both ways. Seems there's no right answer. For me it came down to easiest place to mount the sensor. I've gotta admit though, I never thought of your replacing the oil level sensor idea... I may have given more consideration to the sump had I known that. I like it.
One thing I do like about the adapter location I'm using is that to me it seems like a more accurate reading of what the engine will be seeing. In other words, how hot is the oil I'm supplying to the engine. This is one of the last locations to be able to measure that.
Regardless... what I'm more interested in is the delta between on-track and off-track... I'm pretty confident that's at least 100°. I'd like a cooler to minimize that
Mark.
That's a place where a lot of folks get their temps.
I always felt like a true indication of the oil temps was in the sump. It's after the oil has drained down through the motor and a large quantity of oil to take a larger sample.
I removed the oil level sensor and jumpered the wire plug. The light on the dash is just looking for continuity.
Found a metric plug to screw into the hole, then drilled and tapped the plug, inserted the sensor.
I always felt like a true indication of the oil temps was in the sump. It's after the oil has drained down through the motor and a large quantity of oil to take a larger sample.
I removed the oil level sensor and jumpered the wire plug. The light on the dash is just looking for continuity.
Found a metric plug to screw into the hole, then drilled and tapped the plug, inserted the sensor.
One thing I do like about the adapter location I'm using is that to me it seems like a more accurate reading of what the engine will be seeing. In other words, how hot is the oil I'm supplying to the engine. This is one of the last locations to be able to measure that.
Regardless... what I'm more interested in is the delta between on-track and off-track... I'm pretty confident that's at least 100°. I'd like a cooler to minimize that
Mark.
#9
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Certainly a sound argument for sensor placement.
The decision on size of the cooler came down to only needing something that would keep the oil relatively cool for 20 minutes ... typical race duration.
My cooler will become less and less efficient over a short period of time. But I don't race it for 4 or 5 hours.
The smaller package became easier to mount and locate.
I have considered two sensors - one precooler and one post cooler - to see the delta of the cooler and duct work to it. And then a switch to toggle between them, allowing a single gauge install.
The decision on size of the cooler came down to only needing something that would keep the oil relatively cool for 20 minutes ... typical race duration.
My cooler will become less and less efficient over a short period of time. But I don't race it for 4 or 5 hours.
The smaller package became easier to mount and locate.
I have considered two sensors - one precooler and one post cooler - to see the delta of the cooler and duct work to it. And then a switch to toggle between them, allowing a single gauge install.