stevo92z28

iTrader: (22)

Anyone fabbed any up for 4th gens? Any pics of installs. Trying to get some ideas. Figured the fog light holes could be used.

I plan on some track days this year as well as many mountain runs. I will be running 5th gen front brakes.

dbs1

I've got some on my 02. Inlets through the front grill. I'd heard the fog light locations would not pull enough air?

athornt2

iTrader: (18)

In the early stages of my build (when my car was a bottom breather) I used the fog light holes which seemed to be sufficient for the stock brakes at the time. I was using Hawk HT10 pads and prospeed brake fluid. Since then I've converted my car to front breather that incorporated ducts into that setup and upgraded to a big brake kit.

We recently put ducts in the fog light holes on another AI car with a big brake kit and they did not sufficiently cool the brakes. I've seen people put ducts on the air dam with positive feedback however I've never personally tried this.

01 ss vert

iTrader: (1)

I run Blaine Fabrication ducts (he is on frrax.com) and they work! I run C6 calipers on track brackets, C5 directional rotors, his ducts, ATE blue Fluid, Hawk HTC60 pads, and the scoops cut into the factory air damn. The air damn provides plenty of air to keep the brakes cool. Back in November I went for a 300 mile drive and when I got home, I had no less than 7 leaves stuck inside each rotor.

The Blaine ducts are a little pricey, but they work. The craftsmanship is great, and the fitment even better. I have zero clearance issues, but it is tight - you can tell he took precise measurements when designing it.

They mount to the outside of the wheel bearing with thin nuts, which he provides with new hardware. For hoses, I run 3” sewer hose made for RV applications. It’s flexible, metal reinforced, light, and most appealing – cheap. I got the scoops off of Pegasus and thankfully fitment was great. I got probably $400 just in this set-up, not counting the actual brake components themselves.

Next job is to make some block-off plates for the scoops for day to day driving. I have the scoops installed with wing-nuts so I can easily take them on and off as needed. I hit up a track day, and 3 minutes later the brakes are ready to breath. Additional weight added is minimal – I’m guessing under 8 lbs once you factor in everything.

I like my fog lights, so I didn't want to lose them. I wasn't aware of anyone else running them through the airdamn, but I took the chance anyway and it's worked great thus far.

Once you spread a set of calipers, you will be looking for upgrades like this.

Jeff94TA

I run the Blainefab ducts as well with my C6 setup and couldn't be happier. I'm using a Hawk DTC70 pad and never had any fade. I can hammer them all day and know that they will be rock solid.

I'm running a NACA duct mounted to the air dam and they work great but are easily damaged driving them on the street since they angle down. I've damaged them loading it on to the trailer as well so even though they work great I'm not sure it's the best solution. I did cover the openings with wire fabric to make sure to keep debris out of the rotors.



Here is the duct that I'm using. http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p...148/NACA_Ducts

01 ss vert

iTrader: (1)

I'll upload my set-up once I take some photos. Jeff94TA and I have a similiar set-up - however I have the back of the scoops attached to the front of the airdamn, not the other way around like above.

stevo92z28

iTrader: (22)

I like my fog lights as well figured it would be too much to head up into the grille area. My car is on the higher perch of the koni so it's not too low though i can see the air dam still being an issue with street driving. Those brackets are pricey but very nice. Going to have to get creative it appears. Thanks for feedback.

Steve91T

I attached 3" flanges to the air damn. I found a cheap set of ducts that secure to the brake caliper bolts. Blows air into the center of the rotor. I'll have to look for that waste RV hose. I've been using 3" Al. dryer duct from lowes. It isn't durable enough to hold up through a weekend.

Steve91T

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

I bought Blaine Fabrication rotor ducts, they seal to the inside of the rotor and blow air on the wheel bearing and then out the inside rotor fins.

I mounted BSR products ducts to the outside edge of the under car valance then plumbed them to the rotor ducts with 3 inch orange high temp hose.

Will get pics today.

01 ss vert

iTrader: (1)

I'm looking forward to when we can meet up.

I'm considering Road ATL in a few weekends. https://www.nasaproracing.com/event/1528

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

I will be at Barber this weekend with PCA. I took the PCA instructors class this past weekend at NOLA Motorsports Park so I am now (drum roll please) a Porsche Club of America "High Performance Driving Instructor".


I may make that event at RA, have to see after this weekend in Barber. I never join ahead of time as you may not have a car so to speak LOL.


**EDIT**

I cant make that RA event, I am tied up.

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

Here are pics of my setup, when I set the car up for street duty I take the front valance off with the hoses attached and hang it on the wall and install a stock one.








Here is my power steering cooler if anyone is interested.

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

Here is a link to the ducts.

http://blainefab.com/ductplenums.html

stevo92z28

iTrader: (22)

Thanks! This should still work for a 14" rotor i would assume. I will just call most likely.

I mounted my power steering cooler in the same location. Not quite angled like yours though.

speed_demon24

iTrader: (6)

I have the same as everyone else except I use an RK sport air dam for some extra cooling, and it can't hurt with aero having it sealed off to the track.

jbridwelltransam

iTrader: (12)

I plan on trying to route mine through the holes in my front bumper under my DRL's

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

I drilled 4 inch and a half holes in the valance in front of the cooler to give it air.

beach cruiser

iTrader: (1)

Here's how I did mine, but my car is a T/A, I need to upgrade to the real hoses, the dryer duct didn't last all weekend before it gut crushed.

jbridwelltransam

iTrader: (12)

those bottome two pics don't work, fix em! I want see how you routed the hose to the rotor and bearing.