AutoCross
#1
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AutoCross
So i would like to get into autocross, drag racing is fun but would like to try something different. what are the requirements and can i get some advice
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There really isn't anything needed to get started. Most events will have a class you can compete in with a bone stock car. I'm planning to get into it myself. Im sure someone more experienced will chime in with more detailed info and advice.
#4
Check your lug nuts, wheel bearings, make sure your battery is held down tight, grab a snell 2010 rated helmet and go have some fun. Great way to learn car control. You can go to motorsportreg.com and find all the events in your area. The SCCA events can be very competitive, look for local clubs they are typically more relaxed and you can most likely get more runs in. Your first few events you will be placed in a novice class, and there will be instructors there to ride along and give you pointers
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#6
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The seats are nice as well as a five point harness but if you are just starting out one of the belts that is used to go around a suit case works well to hold you in the seat.
Make sure the car is prepped well, bleed the brakes. A cheap 12volt air compressor with a good tire pressure gauge is helpful.
Have fun.
Make sure the car is prepped well, bleed the brakes. A cheap 12volt air compressor with a good tire pressure gauge is helpful.
Have fun.
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#9
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Yea i have the C4 Saw blades and im sitting on 285/40-17 Michelin Pilot Sport and GoodYear Eagle F1 in the rear, and245/40-17 Nexen N3000 and BF Goodrich g-Force sport in the front. i got them off a buddies bird he keep for a week before he sold it. not sure why the guy before him had 4 diferent brand of tires on them but they all had at least 85% tread. lol
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It actually handles pretty well surprisingly especially in the rain
#13
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I would just use those tires and wheels for some good burnout videos and pictures until I could get matching tires. That's going to handle like crap, you might think it handles well since it is a base line but once you replace them and go again you will see how bad it was before.
#14
To hell with it. As long as the tires are in good shape just run them. You won't be fast, but nobody is fast when they first start autocrossing. Might as well use up the tires having some safe legal fun. When you actually get good tires it will be an eye opener for sure.
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Sorry to revive my own dead thread but what are you guys running for rear shocks/struts. I'm debating on viking coil-overs or their rear shocks/struts. Is it safe to use coil-overs on the strut tab?
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I would hope it's safe if you're already driving them on the street! You might see some binding that could be fixed by a transverse shock mount. Depending on your skill level that may or may not be an issue as far as your times are concerned. IMO for Auto-x a koni/strano setup would be better than the vikings which are basically QA1s.
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I would hope it's safe if you're already driving them on the street! You might see some binding that could be fixed by a transverse shock mount. Depending on your skill level that may or may not be an issue as far as your times are concerned. IMO for Auto-x a koni/strano setup would be better than the vikings which are basically QA1s.
#18
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I just had to get my Lq9 rebuilt to a 408 due to destroying a rod. So strano/koni's are a little out of my range at the moment. I'm working so track days for NASA in April at Savannah and May at VIR with the hopes to do HPDE 1 at CMP the following weekend after VIR. I was looking at putting coilovers all the way around for increased tunability to help with entering turns better,which is my biggest weakness.
If you really can't afford it then just stick with stock springs and koni SA's.
What you have to understand is the viking's (like QA1, strange, afco) are a non-gas charged DRAG shock. They are specifically built to transfer weight, and are not gas charged so you will get shock fade when they get hot and worked hard. It doesn't matter how many "adjustments" they have when they are not valved/built right in the first place. -Also the way they actually adjust the valving is different than proper handling shock like the konis.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...l#post18674745
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...l#post18379999
Trust me, you will be BLOWN AWAY with the difference just Koni SA's alone will make.
#19
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The koni/strano setup isn't much more at all than the vikings...
If you really can't afford it then just stick with stock springs and koni SA's.
What you have to understand is the viking's (like QA1, strange, afco) are a non-gas charged DRAG shock. They are specifically built to transfer weight, and are not gas charged so you will get shock fade when they get hot and worked hard. It doesn't matter how many "adjustments" they have when they are not valved/built right in the first place. -Also the way they actually adjust the valving is different than proper handling shock like the konis.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...l#post18674745
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...l#post18379999
Trust me, you will be BLOWN AWAY with the difference just Koni SA's alone will make.
If you really can't afford it then just stick with stock springs and koni SA's.
What you have to understand is the viking's (like QA1, strange, afco) are a non-gas charged DRAG shock. They are specifically built to transfer weight, and are not gas charged so you will get shock fade when they get hot and worked hard. It doesn't matter how many "adjustments" they have when they are not valved/built right in the first place. -Also the way they actually adjust the valving is different than proper handling shock like the konis.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...l#post18674745
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...l#post18379999
Trust me, you will be BLOWN AWAY with the difference just Koni SA's alone will make.