Looking for advice on roadracing/autocross
#1
Looking for advice on roadracing/autocross
I want to start doing to autocross or road racing. I dont live to far from VIR.
I am wondering about the do's and dont's of what to do to the car. My car is a 95 camaro stock suspension so far. right now I have a CC502 cam and 3600 vig stall 3.42 gear ratio. I have zero knowledge on this so I am looking for you guys to school me. Right now the car is torn apart so I can change stuff while the engine and tranny are out.
I am looking to just go an have a good time not really be super competitive.
I am wondering about the do's and dont's of what to do to the car. My car is a 95 camaro stock suspension so far. right now I have a CC502 cam and 3600 vig stall 3.42 gear ratio. I have zero knowledge on this so I am looking for you guys to school me. Right now the car is torn apart so I can change stuff while the engine and tranny are out.
I am looking to just go an have a good time not really be super competitive.
#2
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Make sure nothing is leaking or worn out, and go enjoy yourself. Lots of clubs have HPDEs where they provide coaches. Look at the HPDE schedule for VIR and sign up for an event. While an auto isn't quite optimal, you can still do it. I ran my GXP last year and had a blast.
#5
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HPDE = High Performance Driver Education or High Performance Driving Event. I've seen both used. I wouldn't monkey with the converter. If it's out and you have another laying around, cool, but I wouldn't have your high stall converter messed with just to do HPDEs. The concept isn't to "win" an HPDE, but the learn and practice. In the process, you get better and faster and realize its mostly driver and not car that make you zip around the track more smoothly.
#7
Launching!
for autox just leave the car as it is...the car will tell you what it needs as you go.
as you progress, into lapping or road racing...keeping fluids and brakes cool will become a priority...but when learning, you don't have to worry as much about that.
just have fun
as you progress, into lapping or road racing...keeping fluids and brakes cool will become a priority...but when learning, you don't have to worry as much about that.
just have fun
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#8
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You just need a helmet for and HPDE.
Just take the car as is for now. Most groups require some kind of tech inspection be done to the car. Having no leaks is a big thing. As long as the car is in good mechanical condition, you are good to go.
Just take the car as is for now. Most groups require some kind of tech inspection be done to the car. Having no leaks is a big thing. As long as the car is in good mechanical condition, you are good to go.
#9
As others have said, don't rush into it thinking you need to modify things from the get-go. The idea is to learn to drive the car, and the speed will come naturally.
You may want to have a trusted mechanic do a technical inspection on the car before hitting the track.
Be aware that as you get faster, brakes will be one of the first limiting factors, so you may want to bring an extra set of pads and some extra brake fluid with you.
Most road courses will require a SA-certified helmet. Motorcycle and karting helmets are a no-no.
Look for at least a SA2005 helmet; preferably SA2010.
You may want to have a trusted mechanic do a technical inspection on the car before hitting the track.
Be aware that as you get faster, brakes will be one of the first limiting factors, so you may want to bring an extra set of pads and some extra brake fluid with you.
Most road courses will require a SA-certified helmet. Motorcycle and karting helmets are a no-no.
Look for at least a SA2005 helmet; preferably SA2010.
#11
Many HPDE's will only require a SA2005 helmet, but you don't have to spend much more for a 2010 rated one, so I'd go with that. I recently picked up an HJC lid for just under $300 and its great. I'd also suggest getting a neck support donut which are cheap. It's no HANS device but the extra little safety assurance is worth it.
#12
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I'm an HPDE instructor for NASA. www.nasaproracing.com
Road racing is just a boat load of fun. You'll get so much seat time you'll be exhausted by Sunday night. Carry some extra fuel, because you'll need it. You'll learn more about car control in 1 week end than you have i the last 2 years, I'd bet.
Getting the car ready is not that difficult. Go to the NASA web site and find the HPDE tech inspection sheet for a good idea of what you need to do. It's just basic stuff like no leaks, battery tied down, good tires, etc.
As far as mods, don't really worry about that for now. As long as it's reliable and safely set up, you'll be fine.
Get a good night's sleep, eat a light breakfast, bring some bananas and plenty of water. Have a great time.
I will caution you about one thing, though. It's addictive. Highly addictive. Probably more addictive than crack, and more expensive. Once you try it, you can't wait to do it again.
Road racing is just a boat load of fun. You'll get so much seat time you'll be exhausted by Sunday night. Carry some extra fuel, because you'll need it. You'll learn more about car control in 1 week end than you have i the last 2 years, I'd bet.
Getting the car ready is not that difficult. Go to the NASA web site and find the HPDE tech inspection sheet for a good idea of what you need to do. It's just basic stuff like no leaks, battery tied down, good tires, etc.
As far as mods, don't really worry about that for now. As long as it's reliable and safely set up, you'll be fine.
Get a good night's sleep, eat a light breakfast, bring some bananas and plenty of water. Have a great time.
I will caution you about one thing, though. It's addictive. Highly addictive. Probably more addictive than crack, and more expensive. Once you try it, you can't wait to do it again.
#14
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Yeah 20 minutes driving 10/10 can really put a train on your car. When it comes to temps, do everything you can reasonably do to keep them under control.
Don't be afraid to pull off early, either. If your trans temps are getting too high, pull off. You don't get any extra points for a spectacular explosion. At least, I never did.
Don't be afraid to pull off early, either. If your trans temps are getting too high, pull off. You don't get any extra points for a spectacular explosion. At least, I never did.
#15
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Now, imagine the rush you get from... say, Top Thrill Dragster @ Cedar Point for about 19 seconds, and stretch *that* to 20 minutes.
#16
Autocross and roadracing calls for suspension, wheels, and tires unless there are some class rules to meet.
I see a Hotchkis suspension kit and I see KW 3 coilovers but neither give spring rates. Spring rates double to triple the stock spring rates would be about right.
I see an Oz Superleggera III wheel at 18 x 9.5 46mm. Then a 275/35-18 Star Spec tire at 25.6" diameter. Or a 285/35-18 RS3 tire at 25.9" diameter. Of course, suspension lowering helps tuck the tops of the tires.
Might as well mention Penske shocks. If the right spring rates can't be found then some small race shop probably does have custom fabricated parts to put Penske shocks on the car. Then the shocks are valved for the spring rates and any spring rate can be chosen. Of course, that's about $4000
.
I see a Hotchkis suspension kit and I see KW 3 coilovers but neither give spring rates. Spring rates double to triple the stock spring rates would be about right.
I see an Oz Superleggera III wheel at 18 x 9.5 46mm. Then a 275/35-18 Star Spec tire at 25.6" diameter. Or a 285/35-18 RS3 tire at 25.9" diameter. Of course, suspension lowering helps tuck the tops of the tires.
Might as well mention Penske shocks. If the right spring rates can't be found then some small race shop probably does have custom fabricated parts to put Penske shocks on the car. Then the shocks are valved for the spring rates and any spring rate can be chosen. Of course, that's about $4000
.
Last edited by B Stead; 02-16-2014 at 01:03 PM.
#17
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Autocross and roadracing calls for suspension, wheels, and tires unless there are some class rules to meet.
I see a Hotchkis suspension kit and I see KW 3 coilovers but neither give spring rates. Spring rates double to triple the stock spring rates would be about right.
I see an Oz Superleggera III wheel at 18 x 9.5 46mm. Then a 275/35-18 Star Spec tire at 25.6" diameter. Or a 285/35-18 RS3 tire at 25.9" diameter. Of course, suspension lowering helps tuck the tops of the tires.
Might as well mention Penske shocks. If the right spring rates can't be found then some small race shop probably does have custom fabricated parts to put Penske shocks on the car. Then the shocks are valved for the spring rates and any spring rate can be chosen. Of course, that's about $4000
.
I see a Hotchkis suspension kit and I see KW 3 coilovers but neither give spring rates. Spring rates double to triple the stock spring rates would be about right.
I see an Oz Superleggera III wheel at 18 x 9.5 46mm. Then a 275/35-18 Star Spec tire at 25.6" diameter. Or a 285/35-18 RS3 tire at 25.9" diameter. Of course, suspension lowering helps tuck the tops of the tires.
Might as well mention Penske shocks. If the right spring rates can't be found then some small race shop probably does have custom fabricated parts to put Penske shocks on the car. Then the shocks are valved for the spring rates and any spring rate can be chosen. Of course, that's about $4000
.
#18
But the tires need to be big enough to handle the quicker load transfer. Or look at the other way and if the tires are big then the springs should be stiff.
Also, stiff springs avoid a rear fender dip when accelerating in the second half of the corner. Swaybars don't help in that situation.
The Hotchkis kit looks good for the F-body because it includes chassis and suspension bracing in addition to the swaybars and springs.
The Strano shop looks very good. They have 18 x 9.5 and 18 x 10 wheels but don't suggest offsets on the web page
.
Last edited by B Stead; 02-16-2014 at 08:01 PM.
#19
TECH Senior Member
Stiffer springs are quicker load transfer and quicker load transfer is more traction on the turn-in (and first half of the curve). Oval track terminology for quicker load transfer is something like "more bite".
But the tires need to be big enough to handle the quicker load transfer. Or look at the other way and if the tires are big then the springs should be stiff.
Also, stiff springs avoid a rear fender dip when accelerating in the second half of the corner. Swaybars don't help in that situation.
The Hotchkis kit looks good for the F-body because it includes chassis and suspension bracing in addition to the swaybars and springs.
The Strano shop looks very good. They have 18 x 9.5 and 18 x 10 wheels but don't suggest offsets on the web page
.
But the tires need to be big enough to handle the quicker load transfer. Or look at the other way and if the tires are big then the springs should be stiff.
Also, stiff springs avoid a rear fender dip when accelerating in the second half of the corner. Swaybars don't help in that situation.
The Hotchkis kit looks good for the F-body because it includes chassis and suspension bracing in addition to the swaybars and springs.
The Strano shop looks very good. They have 18 x 9.5 and 18 x 10 wheels but don't suggest offsets on the web page
.
Im asking because it seems you are going off what sounds more like Corvette type of setups. These cars are very different to setup right compared to something with IRS or 50/50 weight balance.
First, with these cars you want a square tire setup, not staggered. 17x11s with 315s on all corners is a proven setup.
Next you don't want to go too stiff in the rear being a solid axle car, it will start to act like a truck and skip around.
Third the "Hotchkis kit" is far from ideal, its nothing special. Chassis bracing does little to nothing with these cars unless you are talking about a real cage. SFC's and STB's are pretty much useless.
A more "ideal" kit would be the strano setup (Koni SAs/Strano springs/Strano swaybars/ Fays2 wattslink). This is a proven setup with multiple national SCCA champions in F-stock Autox.
#20
The rear suspension could have progressive springs and the KW 3 coilovers do.
The Hotchkis kit does have items to help control the rear axle. But sure some other kit might be better and some other other kit might not be as good. That watts link is a similar idea.
Here's a link to a high-end coilover kit:
http://www.unbalancedengineering.com/Camaro/Penske/
.
Last edited by B Stead; 02-17-2014 at 01:02 AM.