Tubular Suspension Products
#1
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Tubular Suspension Products
Hi, I am reading through some of the other posts and the consensus seems to be is leave the stock k-member in because it is stronger.
I was wondering what you guys think about the tubular control arms? Is there a consensus on them failing as well? I'm looking to retain at least the stock strength, if not stronger. I am also looking for some adjust-ability gains as well.
I was wondering what you guys think about the tubular control arms? Is there a consensus on them failing as well? I'm looking to retain at least the stock strength, if not stronger. I am also looking for some adjust-ability gains as well.
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Stick with the stock K member. By the time they add more support to a tubular one your at pretty much the same weight as a stock one and you'll be spending a good chunk of change that should go to tires, brakes, sways, shocks... etc... (stuff that you ACTUALLY need on a road course)
Also stick with the stock front LCAs with rubber bushings unless you think you really need it then get some boxed front LCAs with rod-ends. NO POLY. If your driving it on the street a lot then I'd say stick with stock and rubber but that's for you to decide. If you need more adjust-ability then look in to Global West upper control arms with the Del-A-Lum bushings.
Also stick with the stock front LCAs with rubber bushings unless you think you really need it then get some boxed front LCAs with rod-ends. NO POLY. If your driving it on the street a lot then I'd say stick with stock and rubber but that's for you to decide. If you need more adjust-ability then look in to Global West upper control arms with the Del-A-Lum bushings.
#4
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Stick with the stock K member. By the time they add more support to a tubular one your at pretty much the same weight as a stock one and you'll be spending a good chunk of change that should go to tires, brakes, sways, shocks... etc... (stuff that you ACTUALLY need on a road course)
Also stick with the stock front LCAs with rubber bushings unless you think you really need it then get some boxed front LCAs with rod-ends. NO POLY. If your driving it on the street a lot then I'd say stick with stock and rubber but that's for you to decide. If you need more adjust-ability then look in to Global West upper control arms with the Del-A-Lum bushings.
Also stick with the stock front LCAs with rubber bushings unless you think you really need it then get some boxed front LCAs with rod-ends. NO POLY. If your driving it on the street a lot then I'd say stick with stock and rubber but that's for you to decide. If you need more adjust-ability then look in to Global West upper control arms with the Del-A-Lum bushings.
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Think about how much the control arm moves when going over a bump or taking a hard turn, now on a road course or autox course.... Put poly bushings in those parts and you will have serious binding going on. There has been people who broke their LCAs and people who have had the bushing separate leaving the control arm directly on the bolt and ruining the arm. Rod ends are stiff and let the control arm articulate more. Rubber is soft and but lets the control arm articulate like it's supposed to. Poly works good to stiffen things that don't require much if any movement like engine mounts or trans mount... I'm sure it's worked for some people on the street. But nobody that autox or RR puts poly bushings in their front control arms. And for the aftermarket rear LCAs at least 1 side should be rod ended to prevent binding..
Quick search and I found this
https://ls1tech.com/forums/17258402-post30.html
Quick search and I found this
https://ls1tech.com/forums/17258402-post30.html
#6
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Think about how much the control arm moves when going over a bump or taking a hard turn, now on a road course or autox course.... Put poly bushings in those parts and you will have serious binding going on. There has been people who broke their LCAs and people who have had the bushing separate leaving the control arm directly on the bolt and ruining the arm. Rod ends are stiff and let the control arm articulate more. Rubber is soft and but lets the control arm articulate like it's supposed to. Poly works good to stiffen things that don't require much if any movement like engine mounts or trans mount... I'm sure it's worked for some people on the street. But nobody that autox or RR puts poly bushings in their front control arms. And for the aftermarket rear LCAs at least 1 side should be rod ended to prevent binding..
Quick search and I found this
https://ls1tech.com/forums/17258402-post30.html
Quick search and I found this
https://ls1tech.com/forums/17258402-post30.html
Thank you for the heads up, from all my experience we have always wanted to go to poly rather than the rubber. But I see how some of these components do not hold up to the awkward forces applied. I guess if I went ahead and went through the suspension and replaced the bushings and ball joints with new replacements, that should be adequate.
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Matt Miller (02-11-2024)
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Perhaps poly can be used with better results when both camber and caster bushings are horizontal (though I would rather go with a del-a-lum in those circumstances), but with the lateral caster bushing in the 4th gens it's just a hot spot for problems with poly bushings.