Upgrading front brakes for the TA and selling the current brakes
#1
Upgrading front brakes for the TA and selling the current brakes
After the last couple of blasts at the track, it's become pretty apparent that the current front brakes are not big enough for continued hard abuse (Wilwood 12 x .81 rotors, with Dynapro 6 calipers). The low mass of the rotor is the main culprit. The car still stops incredibly well, but sustained road course use results in mild fade near the end of the day. With the upcoming increase in horse power (up to 420 RWHP, from 320), I'm not going to push my luck.
Replacing the rotors has a cascade effect, so I'm essentially doing a clean slate upgrade. After doing a bit of research, I am looking very closely at this combo:
front end is already plumbed with braided lines for Wilwood Calipers, so no need to buy lines. any thoughts or input?
BTW, I will be selling off my current front brake setup, which includes the following:
The items in blue cost me almost 900. The EBC pads were 95. Beyond that, the original 4 pot based kit was bought from Summit (Wilwood Kit 140-9053) a few years back for $775. I upgraded to the 6 pots last year after cooking the seals in the 4 pots. I'll sell everything for $1000, and may consider separating. This would make an excellent brake upgrade for a drag or street car. If you supply original spindles, I will swap my modified spindles, which makes this essentially a bolt-on swap for a 2nd Gen F-Body owner.
Replacing the rotors has a cascade effect, so I'm essentially doing a clean slate upgrade. After doing a bit of research, I am looking very closely at this combo:
- Kore3 C5/C6 conversion for GM Tall Spindle
- 12.7x1.25" RacingBrake C5 Two-piece rotors (PN 2098) OR 13.4x1.25" RacingBrake C6 Z51 Two-piece rotors (PN 2068)
- Wilwood W6A Caliper upgrade kit 140-12629
front end is already plumbed with braided lines for Wilwood Calipers, so no need to buy lines. any thoughts or input?
BTW, I will be selling off my current front brake setup, which includes the following:
- Wilwood Dynapro 6 Calipers (PN 120-10122 & 120-10123 - used, in great shape)
- Hardbrake Titanium heat shields for the above calipers
- Wilwood Forged Dynalite Calipers (2 x PN 120-6806 - both need rebuild kits @ $10 each)
- Wilwood Ultralight Rotors (2 x PN 160-0277 - new, unused)
- Wilwood Spec-37 HD Directional vane Rotors (PN 160-12289 & 160-12290 - used, resurfaced)
- Wilwood Polymatrix A pads for the Dynapro 6 Calipers (new, unused)
- hawk DTC70 Pads for the Dynapro 6 Calipers (used for 1.5 sessions, great shape)
- EBC Yellow Pads for the forged dynalite calipers (new, unused)
- Wilwood Hubs for tall spindle GM, 5x4.75 bolt pattern, 1/2x20 studs, with inner and outer bearings and seals (used, good shape)
- conversion brackets to make the whole deal work on a 2nd Gen F-body, and probably a bunch of other GM muscle cars. (used, good shape)
The items in blue cost me almost 900. The EBC pads were 95. Beyond that, the original 4 pot based kit was bought from Summit (Wilwood Kit 140-9053) a few years back for $775. I upgraded to the 6 pots last year after cooking the seals in the 4 pots. I'll sell everything for $1000, and may consider separating. This would make an excellent brake upgrade for a drag or street car. If you supply original spindles, I will swap my modified spindles, which makes this essentially a bolt-on swap for a 2nd Gen F-Body owner.
Last edited by 1981TA; 05-25-2014 at 11:28 PM.
#2
Double check what pads are available for the calipers that you are using. The wildwood poly matrix pads are a poor choice compared to other state of the art pads that are currently available. If I am correct, only poly matrix pads will fit the W6A calipers. Although my W6A calipers worked OK, I had a lot of problems with polymatrix pads.
Just my two cents, I would shop for a set of "big" used brembo Nascar calipers on racing junk or ebay, put a set of good pads on them, and go to a floating rotor. There are a lot of deals out there so shop around, and it is not difficult to fab a caliper bracket to fit your spindle.
Just my two cents, I would shop for a set of "big" used brembo Nascar calipers on racing junk or ebay, put a set of good pads on them, and go to a floating rotor. There are a lot of deals out there so shop around, and it is not difficult to fab a caliper bracket to fit your spindle.
#3
thanks for the input, I'll keep looking. By the way, EBC makes pads for the W6A calipers; Yellow Stuff (DP4054R) and Orange Stuff. Carbotech has some offerings too, but no Hawk pads, unfortunately. Are you selling your W6As?
Last edited by 1981TA; 05-26-2014 at 08:05 AM.
#5
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (23)
I think you can buy used NASCAR pads for those calipers.
Carbotech, Hawk and Porterfield make pads for the 6712 pad shape among others.
http://porterfield-brakes.com/manufa...Type+6712.html
Carbotech, Hawk and Porterfield make pads for the 6712 pad shape among others.
http://porterfield-brakes.com/manufa...Type+6712.html
#6
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (28)
considering the weight of your car run the larger rotor. Duct it also if you can.
Do it once.... and do it right as you'll ultimately want more power also.
As goofy as it may look... a front splitter and rear wing did help to plant my car.... a lot.
My next step is to put some struts on the splitter to prevent it from moving and ducting my radiator to the hood. That will really plant the front end.
I have 13" rotors on mine up front and they are holding up fine... but I'm also probably 750lbs lighter than your setup.
2950lbs with driver
Do it once.... and do it right as you'll ultimately want more power also.
As goofy as it may look... a front splitter and rear wing did help to plant my car.... a lot.
My next step is to put some struts on the splitter to prevent it from moving and ducting my radiator to the hood. That will really plant the front end.
I have 13" rotors on mine up front and they are holding up fine... but I'm also probably 750lbs lighter than your setup.
2950lbs with driver
Last edited by gnx7; 05-28-2014 at 03:32 PM.
#7
considering the weight of your car run the larger rotor. Duct it also if you can.
Do it once.... and do it right as you'll ultimately want more power also.
As goofy as it may look... a front splitter and rear wing did help to plant my car.... a lot.
My next step is to put some struts on the splitter to prevent it from moving and ducting my radiator to the hood. That will really plant the front end.
I have 13" rotors on mine up front and they are holding up fine... but I'm also probably 750lbs lighter than your setup.
2950lbs with driver
Do it once.... and do it right as you'll ultimately want more power also.
As goofy as it may look... a front splitter and rear wing did help to plant my car.... a lot.
My next step is to put some struts on the splitter to prevent it from moving and ducting my radiator to the hood. That will really plant the front end.
I have 13" rotors on mine up front and they are holding up fine... but I'm also probably 750lbs lighter than your setup.
2950lbs with driver
I've been contemplating the front splitter as well, and might install something later this summer. Depends on getting the time or not. Worst case, I'll probably do it next winter.
By the way, I REALLY like that color on your car. It really makes it stand out without being over the top.
Last edited by 1981TA; 05-30-2014 at 12:46 AM.
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#8
The new brakes are in, and the new engine will hopefully be running tomorrow evening. Here are some pics of the new set up:
Kore3 has a race-focused front hub that is an option over their normal offering. Among the things you get for a little extra $ are a stronger aluminum alloy and a larger outer wheel bearing. This first pic shows the difference between the outer bearing that comes stock on the 2nd gen (and also in the Wilwood 12" brake upgrade package) which is to the left, and the bearing that comes with the Kore3 "race" front hub.
Here is the hub and caliper bracket, installed.
...and with the RacingBrake 13.4 C6 Z51 two-peice rotors
here we have the old calipers (black) near the new ones (red), plus the 2" spacers I need to bolt 17x9 4th gen Camaro SS wheels to my 2nd Gen front suspension. If you look carefully, you'll see the tips of the lug bolts are cut off. This is because they would have protruded through the spacer and into the SS wheels, which have a flat mating surface. Incidentally, the 4th Gen Corvette Sawblades not only have better caliper clearance, they have recesses in the mating surface, and didn't need the lug bolts trimmed.
The calipers clear the inside of the wheel by 2-3MM, without grinding or cutting. On a regular 4th Gen (not needing the spacers for proper offset/backspace), this setup will not clear. You would need to go to 12.7" rotors OR 18" wheels.
Rear brakes, now painted, composite rear springs, Moser bolt-in axles.
Kore3 has a race-focused front hub that is an option over their normal offering. Among the things you get for a little extra $ are a stronger aluminum alloy and a larger outer wheel bearing. This first pic shows the difference between the outer bearing that comes stock on the 2nd gen (and also in the Wilwood 12" brake upgrade package) which is to the left, and the bearing that comes with the Kore3 "race" front hub.
Here is the hub and caliper bracket, installed.
...and with the RacingBrake 13.4 C6 Z51 two-peice rotors
here we have the old calipers (black) near the new ones (red), plus the 2" spacers I need to bolt 17x9 4th gen Camaro SS wheels to my 2nd Gen front suspension. If you look carefully, you'll see the tips of the lug bolts are cut off. This is because they would have protruded through the spacer and into the SS wheels, which have a flat mating surface. Incidentally, the 4th Gen Corvette Sawblades not only have better caliper clearance, they have recesses in the mating surface, and didn't need the lug bolts trimmed.
The calipers clear the inside of the wheel by 2-3MM, without grinding or cutting. On a regular 4th Gen (not needing the spacers for proper offset/backspace), this setup will not clear. You would need to go to 12.7" rotors OR 18" wheels.
Rear brakes, now painted, composite rear springs, Moser bolt-in axles.
#9
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (23)
I run the SL6 wide caliper(7420 pads) under 17 inch Gm wheels with a 13.06 Wilwood rotor and no spacers on a 4th gen.
Also, the 14 inch rotor 4th Gen Wilwood kit with the SL6 narrow caliper will fit under 17 inch GM wheels....just barely with no spacer (we did it). With a small spacer you might could run it.
Your kit looks good, bling bling.
Also, the 14 inch rotor 4th Gen Wilwood kit with the SL6 narrow caliper will fit under 17 inch GM wheels....just barely with no spacer (we did it). With a small spacer you might could run it.
Your kit looks good, bling bling.
#15
FFB, just caught your second question. The slots don't go all the way through on the. RacingBrake rotors, but they are also drilled. I'm sure there is a reason why they just cross drill in the slots and not the whole face like what appears to be usual and customary.--i just don't know what that reason is. The RB rotors apppear to be well made and designed. We'll see how they hold up at Gingerman on Friday.