redtan

iTrader: (5)

Going to do a day long HPDE session and was thinking of at least upgrading the pads for the trip. My old pads are crap and pretty much worn out, but the rotors are quality pieces and have ton of meat left on them. Both of them have about 2 years and 20k miles.

Is there going to be a problem putting on new pads on old rotors? There aren't any grooves or weird wear marks on them and they have never shook or vibrated when braking (unlike the stock pieces which warped almost immediately).

Or should I always do new pads and rotors at the same time?

79_T/A

iTrader: (1)

What pads do you currently run, and what pads do you plan on switching to?

redtan

iTrader: (5)

I have hawk ceramics on now, but plan on switching to some EBCs (either blues or yellows).

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

I've never had an issue. Just hit the rotors with some 600 or finer sandpaper to rough them up and bed in the new pads. Or you could get the rotors surfaced but they want freaking $18 a rotor to do that here.

LLave

iTrader: (3)

Meh. I have never had an issue. I know some will argue other wise. But I have swapped out form factory pads to HAWK pads with no issues at all.

'Thias

When changing compounds like that you need to remove the old compound off the rotors. I was told to use 350 sandpaper followed by something a little finer to do that. I do it with the rotors still on the car...just make sure to get both sides. Otherwise, you'll have the old material mucking up your new pads. If you plan on doing HPDE's a lot, I would spring for a second set of rotors that are bedded in with your track compound. Anything that will hold up to a weekend at the track sucks on the street, and vice versa.

Personally, I use HT-10's at the track and HPS on the street. I just got a second set of rotors to start using as "track only," but for the last year I used the sandpaper method. It's faster and cleaner to swap the rotors though...