xXSilencerXx

iTrader: (4)

I am rebuilding my Trans Am and looking at the two items in the subject. I know I want to run an oil cooler as I intend on Auto-X/Road racing with the car. Do most of you just mount the oil cooler in front of the radiator? That's where my transmission cooler was when the car was an auto. Any suggestions on the cooler? I was looking at the Improved Racing thermostats and coolers.

Also, the brake lines on the car have become very rusty after sitting for a few years so I will have to replace them. Is there any reason to keep the ABS? I was considering removing the ABS modules and running a wilwood proportioning valve. With is being a 4 channel car, there is two brake lines going to the rear so I have to figure out if I need to delete the TCS as well. any thoughts/ideas on this?

NW-99SS

iTrader: (6)

I haven't tracked my SS yet, but I have done the ABS delete with a TCS/ASR car. I did the SJM kit and Wilwood proportioning valve (I have the Wilwood front and rear brake kit on my car). To delete the ABS mechanically is pretty straight forward. You will have the ABS INOP light on at all times on your dash. The only way to stop that is black it out/remove the bulb for that light. That's what I did. I no longer have traction control either - but I knew that was coming as the system doesn't work that well anyway. You can leave the module there if you want to, to keep your cruise control and throttle cable lines, or you can remove it, but you would have to change those cables.

xXSilencerXx

iTrader: (4)

Copy, that's what I figured. The SJM sounds like the cleanest kit for deleting ABS and dealing with the dual lines to the back.

By deleting the ABS, that makes your TCS inoperable anyway right? I have the ABS light on in the car at all times anyway due to a problem haven't been able to track down, hence why I was just going to get rid of it.

NW-99SS

iTrader: (6)

Correct, the ABS module must be in place to function the brakes for TCS/ASR to work. SJM kit is nice, a lot of extra line to work with, just takes patience to get good at flaring

beach cruiser

iTrader: (1)

I just had this oil cooler conversation with ShowStopper a couple of threads down. Improved Racing is top shelf equipment. I run all of their stuff on my race car and they Sponsor me. If you have room around the exhaust go with the oil cooler bypass valve with the built in thermostat. If not, you may want to put an inline thermostat in the car if you think you'll be driving anywhere that's cold. In front of the radiator is where you mount it so you'll have to make room to get your lines up there, they are #10 AN generally. If you have any questions let me know, I can also give you a discount code for Improved through their sponsorship of me, I just can't post it openly.

NW-99SS

iTrader: (6)

Excellent sharing of info and a discount too - that's why I still love this site.

Can you comment on difference in oil temps found while tracking the car, from before cooler install to after?

Thanks!

xXSilencerXx

iTrader: (4)

I did see that thread later. I ended up placing an order with them for a cooler, the inline thermostat, and oil pan baffle.

Thanks for the offer, I'm sure I'll have more questions about this stuff as I go through this build!

beach cruiser

iTrader: (1)

You'll be happy with their stuff, it's top shelf IMO. If you ordered all that stuff you should also get the crank scrapper, it's about 8-10 free HP plus it puts more oil back in the pan. It's probally the best HP/$ you'll ever spend. PM me for a code so they know it came from me, and will also save you some bucks!

for the temps, I ran both VIR and Charlotte in July where the temps were in the high 90's all weekend. I never saw any temps over 220 either weekend, I didn't have the gauge in the car before the cooler. I will say that on cool down laps I could watch the temps drop as I came in.

.boB

iTrader: (1)

Traction control and ABS are nice to have on the street - for all the obvious reasons. But, maybe not so good for road racing. It sounds like this is also going to be a street car; otherwise, why would you put a thermostat on the oil cooler?

With that thought in mind, can't you just unplug the power to the ABS control module? That works on a Ford, but I'm not familiar with the GM system. It's free, and doesn't require any real work.

Also, I don't know what your road racing experience is. With new drivers and new cars, I always tell them to keep the electronic assists fully active. You'll feel it when the computer kicks in and makes a correction. That keeps them out of the dirt, and allows them to decide what they did wrong and correct that. As drivers get more experience and the car gets dialed in, then it's usually better to shut those controls off.

FIVEPOINT7

iTrader: (2)

SCCA wheel to wheel club racing prohibits ABS, the fuses has to be removed at a minimum. The whole system is going on my current build.