How do you guys make more power?
06-28-2016, 09:09 PM
#1
How do you guys make more power? Just wondering how you guys go about making more power. HCI? Turbo? ProCharger? I'm mostly done with upgrading my suspension and want to choose a path to make more power but not sure which to choose for a car that will see corners. I'd assume HCI since it's the lightest but would like some opinions.
Also Nitrous is ruled out due to the fact that most SCCA events prohibit the use of Nitrous.
Also Nitrous is ruled out due to the fact that most SCCA events prohibit the use of Nitrous.
06-29-2016, 07:42 AM
#6
Agreed. I've had better luck with a nicely built engine. For a roadcourse/autocross, the FI cars seem to struggle a little.
06-29-2016, 08:28 AM
#7
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I plan to roadrace in my vette but not competitively. To much power with a vortech.
A nice high revving aluminum engine with an impressive midrange tq curve is all you need. I was always told 700rwhp is the most that is doable in roadracing for a streetcar.
A nice high revving aluminum engine with an impressive midrange tq curve is all you need. I was always told 700rwhp is the most that is doable in roadracing for a streetcar.
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06-29-2016, 01:26 PM
#9
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Wait, you don't have long tubes? Man I'd start there with a tune. Gotta do it anyway. To give you an idea, an LS6 cam and tune with allow you to pull to 6500 and make about 380 rwhp. There are better came out there, just giving an example.
What kind of lap times are you running at VIR? I don't know you're experience, but power should be absolutely last on your list. Driver experience should be number 1.
What kind of lap times are you running at VIR? I don't know you're experience, but power should be absolutely last on your list. Driver experience should be number 1.
06-29-2016, 03:27 PM
#10
Wait, you don't have long tubes? Man I'd start there with a tune. Gotta do it anyway. To give you an idea, an LS6 cam and tune with allow you to pull to 6500 and make about 380 rwhp. There are better came out there, just giving an example.
What kind of lap times are you running at VIR? I don't know you're experience, but power should be absolutely last on your list. Driver experience should be number 1.
What kind of lap times are you running at VIR? I don't know you're experience, but power should be absolutely last on your list. Driver experience should be number 1.
Since I live in Seattle, there are only one or two tracks in this area both of which I haven't yet run at. I've mostly done autocross.
07-04-2016, 10:01 PM
#13
1. One on one instruction
2. tires
3. Seat time
4. brakes
5. Seat time
6. suspension
7. Advanced instruction
8. Engine
9. Seat time
07-05-2016, 12:47 PM
#15
I just finished a head/cam install on my sons car. Getting tuning done tonite. But He took the cam route via a BTR roadrace cam with 243 heads.
A cam designed for a purpose will net more productive results without wasting money.
He doesn't list this cam on his site, but give his folks a call and they'll take care of you. All I know is this cam kit with 799/243s are well into the 4xx rwhp.
A cam designed for a purpose will net more productive results without wasting money.
He doesn't list this cam on his site, but give his folks a call and they'll take care of you. All I know is this cam kit with 799/243s are well into the 4xx rwhp.
07-06-2016, 05:56 AM
#16
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I would also add a good diff to the list. I run an Aurborn Road Race diff in my WS6, made all the difference in the world for autox. Tires, seat time and brakes. Get rid of the drilled rotors and go solid with some HAWK HP+ pads or similar.
07-06-2016, 10:20 PM
#17
I just finished a head/cam install on my sons car. Getting tuning done tonite. But He took the cam route via a BTR roadrace cam with 243 heads.
A cam designed for a purpose will net more productive results without wasting money.
He doesn't list this cam on his site, but give his folks a call and they'll take care of you. All I know is this cam kit with 799/243s are well into the 4xx rwhp.
A cam designed for a purpose will net more productive results without wasting money.
He doesn't list this cam on his site, but give his folks a call and they'll take care of you. All I know is this cam kit with 799/243s are well into the 4xx rwhp.
Diff is definitely on my list. Will deal with brakes once I do the CTS-V swap, so far brakemotive has served me well.
07-07-2016, 07:21 AM
#19
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Clutch weight would help you to. For road racing especially you want something as small and light as possible.
With your kooks system you will gain alot. Throw a fast intake on that too along wuth a larger maf and you will pick up alot of power.
Another good idea again especially fir road racing would be a good set of valve springs. Roller rockers work well to.
With the mods mentioned you won't hardly know your car when you step on the gas.
Last edited by HioSSilver; 07-07-2016 at 07:30 AM.
07-07-2016, 11:34 AM
#20
I originally built my car as a straight line car and then got hooked on road courses. Here are a few of my thoughts based on your question, comments about your goals for the car and your experience on track:
1. .bob is correct -- seat time is the single greatest factor of lap times at this juncture. Engine power is not the biggest limitation. I remember pointing by a Mini Cooper at my first HPDE at Road Atlanta despite having 3x more horsepower on tap. The person behind the wheel of that Mini Cooper was an instructor. Ever since that humbling moment, I've sought to improve my skills as a driver instead of focusing on the car.
2. Brakes: Before you lay out the coin on a big brake upgrade, you should put a set of track pads on the front with blank rotors and gain some experience. I have the stock LS1 brakes on my car with an aggressive track pad (DTC-60 or DTC-70 up front) and the HP+ in the rear. Frankly, you would be well served with a HP+ in the front and a parts store pad in the rear. Don't feel motivated to upgrade the rear brakes substantially -- due to the braking bias for our cars, that will only create problems with wheel hop.
3. Accelerating faster: It's amazing what a lightweight clutch and flywheel can do in this regard. Sure, the car is tougher to launch at the drag strip, but it rips through the gears on track. There are plenty of great lightweight combos out there -- I'm running the McLeod RST with the lightweight aluminum flywheel. Sure, there's a great benefit here, however again this isn't a limiting factor on track right now.
4. Engine Mods: To the extent you want to produce more power, I would recommend going N/A as forced induction is known for having heat-related issues. A simple heads and cam combo can be quite potent when matched well with supporting mods. The cam profile you should be looking for is one that makes good midrange power. I went with a 228/230 custom grind cam that isn't worthy of a dyno-brag post, however it is solid at producing power where I need it.
5. Tires: The engine mods don't really matter if you can't put the power down to the pavement. Tires are a HUGE factor in lap times and performance, however you should get more seat time on street radials. One of the best benefits of tracking these tires is that most provide good audible feedback as you approach their cornering limits. Having that sound to go along with the feel goes a long way in helping you fine tune your feel for where the limit is. R-compounds are great and will certainly push the "limit" further out in a good way, however they don't produce the same sound as you get closer to that point. Generally the way you know you're approaching the limit of a R-compound is 100% feel or the you'll get a clear reminder where it's at every time you step over it (and then it becomes focused on recovery of control).
6: Suspension mods: I didn't start doing the suspension work until after my first HPDE and I'm glad I waited. It was good to get a feel for the car in stock form and then it made it easier to recognize how each individual component made positive contributions to the handling of the car. Shocks are a worthwhile upgrade as well as sway bars. I consider springs being paired with shocks, so you could group those together as one upgrade. I do have roto-joint LCAs and they've been great at helping put power down to the ground and I don't have to deal with articulation limits or binding.
1. .bob is correct -- seat time is the single greatest factor of lap times at this juncture. Engine power is not the biggest limitation. I remember pointing by a Mini Cooper at my first HPDE at Road Atlanta despite having 3x more horsepower on tap. The person behind the wheel of that Mini Cooper was an instructor. Ever since that humbling moment, I've sought to improve my skills as a driver instead of focusing on the car.
2. Brakes: Before you lay out the coin on a big brake upgrade, you should put a set of track pads on the front with blank rotors and gain some experience. I have the stock LS1 brakes on my car with an aggressive track pad (DTC-60 or DTC-70 up front) and the HP+ in the rear. Frankly, you would be well served with a HP+ in the front and a parts store pad in the rear. Don't feel motivated to upgrade the rear brakes substantially -- due to the braking bias for our cars, that will only create problems with wheel hop.
3. Accelerating faster: It's amazing what a lightweight clutch and flywheel can do in this regard. Sure, the car is tougher to launch at the drag strip, but it rips through the gears on track. There are plenty of great lightweight combos out there -- I'm running the McLeod RST with the lightweight aluminum flywheel. Sure, there's a great benefit here, however again this isn't a limiting factor on track right now.
4. Engine Mods: To the extent you want to produce more power, I would recommend going N/A as forced induction is known for having heat-related issues. A simple heads and cam combo can be quite potent when matched well with supporting mods. The cam profile you should be looking for is one that makes good midrange power. I went with a 228/230 custom grind cam that isn't worthy of a dyno-brag post, however it is solid at producing power where I need it.
5. Tires: The engine mods don't really matter if you can't put the power down to the pavement. Tires are a HUGE factor in lap times and performance, however you should get more seat time on street radials. One of the best benefits of tracking these tires is that most provide good audible feedback as you approach their cornering limits. Having that sound to go along with the feel goes a long way in helping you fine tune your feel for where the limit is. R-compounds are great and will certainly push the "limit" further out in a good way, however they don't produce the same sound as you get closer to that point. Generally the way you know you're approaching the limit of a R-compound is 100% feel or the you'll get a clear reminder where it's at every time you step over it (and then it becomes focused on recovery of control).
6: Suspension mods: I didn't start doing the suspension work until after my first HPDE and I'm glad I waited. It was good to get a feel for the car in stock form and then it made it easier to recognize how each individual component made positive contributions to the handling of the car. Shocks are a worthwhile upgrade as well as sway bars. I consider springs being paired with shocks, so you could group those together as one upgrade. I do have roto-joint LCAs and they've been great at helping put power down to the ground and I don't have to deal with articulation limits or binding.
Last edited by Midnight02; 07-08-2016 at 08:24 AM.