Pan baffles, accusump, and 7 quarts?
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Pan baffles, accusump, and 7 quarts?
I am putting a 99' LS1 camaro engine (w/ stock pan) into an M3.
Plan to track it, weekend warrior whatever you want to call it.
What's necessary? I read Louis (LG) recommending 7 qts. oil and no accusump. Is an upgraded pan baffle necessary? I will be running sticky tires.
This is off topic, but while the motor is out, what about upgraded rod bolts? needed or not needed?
Plan to track it, weekend warrior whatever you want to call it.
What's necessary? I read Louis (LG) recommending 7 qts. oil and no accusump. Is an upgraded pan baffle necessary? I will be running sticky tires.
This is off topic, but while the motor is out, what about upgraded rod bolts? needed or not needed?
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might as well do what you want while the motor is out. i would. give it either a rebuild or refresh, add a cam/heads if you want.
id get the baffle. i just got one. cant hurt, and not hugely expensive. read the post about a guy who spun a bearing while road racing.
of course if i was doing an all out racer/track car, id go dry sump.
id get the baffle. i just got one. cant hurt, and not hugely expensive. read the post about a guy who spun a bearing while road racing.
of course if i was doing an all out racer/track car, id go dry sump.
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I would do Katech rod bolts while the motor is out and I would definitely do the Improved Performance baffled tray setup and maybe even the acusump afterall they are not a lot of money compared to the price and labor of replacing a dead engine. I always use 7 qts. of oil when doing track days and auto-x it will not guarantee that the motor will not go pop but it helps.
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might as well do what you want while the motor is out. i would. give it either a rebuild or refresh, add a cam/heads if you want.
id get the baffle. i just got one. cant hurt, and not hugely expensive. read the post about a guy who spun a bearing while road racing.
of course if i was doing an all out racer/track car, id go dry sump.
id get the baffle. i just got one. cant hurt, and not hugely expensive. read the post about a guy who spun a bearing while road racing.
of course if i was doing an all out racer/track car, id go dry sump.
I'll probably just get an upgraded baffle. Anyone know which one is best or works?
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I would do Katech rod bolts while the motor is out and I would definitely do the Improved Performance baffled tray setup and maybe even the acusump afterall they are not a lot of money compared to the price and labor of replacing a dead engine. I always use 7 qts. of oil when doing track days and auto-x it will not guarantee that the motor will not go pop but it helps.
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I am putting a 99' LS1 camaro engine (w/ stock pan) into an M3.
Plan to track it, weekend warrior whatever you want to call it.
What's necessary? I read Louis (LG) recommending 7 qts. oil and no accusump. Is an upgraded pan baffle necessary? I will be running sticky tires.
This is off topic, but while the motor is out, what about upgraded rod bolts? needed or not needed?
Plan to track it, weekend warrior whatever you want to call it.
What's necessary? I read Louis (LG) recommending 7 qts. oil and no accusump. Is an upgraded pan baffle necessary? I will be running sticky tires.
This is off topic, but while the motor is out, what about upgraded rod bolts? needed or not needed?
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The T56 is a bit heavier than the 5spd. BMW trans., but of course that weight is closer to the center of the car. Vorshlag has a couple of these cars running. Weight bias is unaffected. I'll have to look up the exact weights again. I believe Vorshlag has it on there site.
Lots of reading here:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=675305
Can't wait to get it all together. Hopefully it will be close to 3k lbs with some minor weight reduction.
I'm ordering the IP pan baffle and ARP rod bolts and a bunch of oil.
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its ALOT easier to do with the motor out. i thought it would be an easy job. little did i know the oil pan is connected to the trans....and you have to drop the front suspension, disconnect the trans, and raise the engine 3 inches to get at some bolts.