'99 NBM Camaro SS
09-16-2015, 11:05 AM
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'99 NBM Camaro SS Year: 1999
Make: Chevrolet
Model: Camaro
Price: $6000
Mileage: 67000
Private or Dealer Listing: Private Listing
Location (State): MI
Color: Blue
Transmission: Manual
Drivetrain: Rear Wheel Drive
LS Engine?: Car has LS engine
Body/Cosmetics:
I would give the car's appearance a 7/10, but I'm also picky and a 10/10 to me is showroom condition. It has the expected stone chips from highway driving. There are a couple of minor cracks in the paint on the spoiler where I assume the assembly is screwed together. There is a 1" narrow scrape on the edge of the hood scoop where a chunk of 2x4 landed after being kicked up by a semi. The hood is not cracked and it looks like the spot could easily be covered up with touch-up. As a result of the incident mentioned above, the windshield and the hard top were damaged. The hard top was already in awful shape due to the 98-02 blistering paint/adhesive defect, so I chose not to repair it. I instead started the t-top conversion in the summer of 2012. I would say that its 95% complete. I just installed new door/t-top seals this summer (the used seals that came with the T-tops were toast). The windshield was replaced with the proper t-top seal. The rear section of the roof is off of a real t-top car, not a hack job. It is a temporary and also has the blistering paint/adhesive issue. I have a rear top section off of a 94-97 t-top car that will be included in the sale. It will need to be sanded/painted. The interior pieces (including the headliner) have been converted. The sheet metal under the T-tops is currently painted flat black. These cars usually have this area painted the same color as the car. A nice can of color-matched paint would do the trick. I used minimal caulking when installing these new seals to make the process of prepping this area for paint as easy as possible for the next owner. The SS wheels are in good shape, but could use a good polish job and a fresh set of lug nuts. The interior charcoal with cloth seats. No rips/tears or stains. Windows are tinted.
DRIVETRAIN:
Engine: [/B]
Stock LS1 with a few dealer upgrades. The car has the SLP LS6 intake that keeps EGR, SLP lid and has a Hot Cam. I was told that these were dealer installed when the car was new and was given all of the "new car" paperwork that had been passed on by the original owner. I have moved a few times since purchasing the car and am currently trying to locate this paperwork to pass on to the next owner. The car also has Siemens Deka 60lb injectors, a wideband and a fuel pressure gauge (gauges are mounted on the driver's side pillar). I purchased a used EFI Live V1 unit to fine tune the injectors and fix some low rpm drivability issues with the cam. The injectors are dialed in (found the correct injector data!) and the car cruises around town in gear with very little bucking/surging. The car still needs to be tuned in the upper RPM range. I refused to pay a tuner to dyno tune the top end until I was able to install a set of long tubes. This car did not see 6k rpm during the time that I have owned it. I set the rev limiter to 6k to prevent possibly damaging the motor on an incomplete tune (it looked nearly stock with a timing bump across the band when I first began working on it...). The car still has stock manifolds. The EFI Live unit will be sold with the car. I also have an E-85 tune that I will pass on to the next owner if interested.
Transmission:
Stock T-56. It will occasionally kick out of 3rd gear (when attempting to shift from 2nd) under normal driving conditions. It seems to happen more often under heavy acceleration. Maybe 1/20 shifts if I had to put a number to it, but its never consistent. I could go a week or two without it happening when it was my daily summer driver, but then out of nowhere have it happen twice in 1 day.
Rear End
The original rear had been upgraded to a 3.73 ratio, but soon after I purchased the car it began to make some odd noises and leaking fluid. Rather than waste any money on repairing a 7.5 10 bolt, I found a stocker from a '98 automatic for cheap. It was a lower-mileage unit (or so I was told) and it has done the job quietly for the last couple of years. It does have 3.23 gears. It cruises @ 70 @ just under 2k rpm in 5th and @ 85 @ 1700 rpm in 6th. It averages between 26-28 mpg cruising on the highway with both gear/speed combos. This spring I noticed a small amount of gear oil on my garage floor. Upon further inspection, it appears that there is a very slow leak at the pinion seal. Rather than attempt to replace the seal and possibly mess up the sleeve, I've elected to just top off the fluid every so often before driving it. I can't give an exact rate of the leak because I barely drive the car, but it is very slow, even after/during driving. Easy fix for someone who is confident setting up rear ends, or a great excuse to upgrade.
Suspension:
When I purchased the car, it already had SLP sub frame connectors and a SLP shock tower brace. I installed a set of Strano springs and Koni yellows. Also replaced were the rear control arms with tubular BMRs (rubber bushings.) The front lower and upper control arm bushings are poly. I have a set of Moog rubber bushings for the front lower control arms that will be included with the car. The upper and lower ball joints + inner and outer tie rods are Moog also. All parts mentioned about have about 13k on them. Tires have about 8k on them.
Last edited by ajseburg; 03-30-2016 at 11:53 AM. Reason: updated price
