best location for backpressure sensor
#1
best location for backpressure sensor
one of my winter upgrades is to log backpressure. I'll be using the 0-100psi 4.5v ebay sensor and logging in HP Tuners.
here's my hotside
from what I have gathered, people are tapping into the hotside all over the place..at the exhaust port, right before the turbine, middle of the long side in a single...
is there a place that will give me the best overall picture of what the turbine is seeing both with the w/g open and closed?
here's my hotside
from what I have gathered, people are tapping into the hotside all over the place..at the exhaust port, right before the turbine, middle of the long side in a single...
is there a place that will give me the best overall picture of what the turbine is seeing both with the w/g open and closed?
#5
9 Second Club
3/16" brake pipe is handy.
When I tried a cheap **** ebay sensor it lasted 2 days......they replaced it and the next one lasted 2 days lol
Using a Honeywell sensor now and it's been on a few months.
When I tried a cheap **** ebay sensor it lasted 2 days......they replaced it and the next one lasted 2 days lol
Using a Honeywell sensor now and it's been on a few months.
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#8
8 Second Club
iTrader: (19)
Something to consider when running the China sensors on a BP gauge is heat. They might not be as resilient. With that said I ran china pressure sensors with co2 and fuel and they worked well.
The only problem I ever had with them was the connection between the plug. On the dome pressure sensor the female end wasn't making good contact. I chased a massive boost fluctuation problem for months Becuase of it.
The only problem I ever had with them was the connection between the plug. On the dome pressure sensor the female end wasn't making good contact. I chased a massive boost fluctuation problem for months Becuase of it.
#9
8 Second Club
iTrader: (19)
Originally Posted by truckdoug
really? i'm using one to log fuel pressure and it's the ****. A-B compared it the SSI sensor it appears to copy, and its dead nuts.
I thought about using a stock oil pressure sender too, but I can't find any in my garage-mess
I thought about using a stock oil pressure sender too, but I can't find any in my garage-mess
#10
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Keep in mind that most of the "brand name" stuff is China made. The real difference is quality control. This means that some people may get cheap-*** China knock-offs that are absolutely just as good as the best name brand, while others may receive a steaming pile of ****. The difference in price often comes down to the fact that the name brands sort out the good ones and toss the shitpiles.
#11
8 Second Club
iTrader: (19)
Originally Posted by gametech
Keep in mind that most of the "brand name" stuff is China made. The real difference is quality control. This means that some people may get cheap-*** China knock-offs that are absolutely just as good as the best name brand, while others may receive a steaming pile of ****. The difference in price often comes down to the fact that the name brands sort out the good ones and toss the shitpiles.
With that said I still bought China sensors and had relatively good luck with them.
#12
the way i see it, this is just my hobby.
these parts are for a car, not a boat or airplane
so if i have a failure its probably not gonna kill me or maim me so bad i can't work.
i havent had a honeywell sensor in my hand but from the pics i see on the internet it looks identical to the SSI unit. Is czech made. Good, strong, like Russian t34.
these parts are for a car, not a boat or airplane
so if i have a failure its probably not gonna kill me or maim me so bad i can't work.
i havent had a honeywell sensor in my hand but from the pics i see on the internet it looks identical to the SSI unit. Is czech made. Good, strong, like Russian t34.
#15
9 Second Club
I've little doubt the sensors would be fine for fuel, oil, whatever.
I also tried a cheap ebay map sensor for EGBP...it lasted a few weeks. Finally decided **** it, just buy a proper sensor.
#16
logged a couple WOT blasts. it's pretty jumpy. any ideas on smoothing it?
first one at 3:50ish was a 3rd gear romp to just under redline.
i'm getting ~16 drive pressure for 10psi boost
the second one is on the line lock, with a test of my "anti-lag"
looks like I build boost about 800 rpm earlier. at 6:34 I hit the button and boost builds up pretty quick.
looks like about the same drive pressure on that romp too. highest there is 20psi drive at 10psi boost
comments? ideas?
first one at 3:50ish was a 3rd gear romp to just under redline.
i'm getting ~16 drive pressure for 10psi boost
the second one is on the line lock, with a test of my "anti-lag"
looks like I build boost about 800 rpm earlier. at 6:34 I hit the button and boost builds up pretty quick.
looks like about the same drive pressure on that romp too. highest there is 20psi drive at 10psi boost
comments? ideas?
#19
9 Second Club
#20
8 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
A guy could use a resistor and a capacitor to slow down the time constant on the lead that feeds the VCM scanner.
I log fuel pressure using the PCM oil pressure input. Its quite lumpy. Rather surprised me.
But at the shop we've done a few cars that use the Innovate setups that log fuel pressure, and they are all over the map as well. one would think fuel pressure would be more smooth.
Nice setup Doug. I haven't seen many photos of it.
Ron
I log fuel pressure using the PCM oil pressure input. Its quite lumpy. Rather surprised me.
But at the shop we've done a few cars that use the Innovate setups that log fuel pressure, and they are all over the map as well. one would think fuel pressure would be more smooth.
Nice setup Doug. I haven't seen many photos of it.
Ron