MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

And how is the bore to stroke of a 6.0 408.Would it be the same. What would be safe redline on a 6.0 forged ? 6500 still ok?

mterveen

iTrader: (2)

are you using a 2 bar map sensor and a SD tune or staying with a 1 bar and maf tune?

KWIKKAR

iTrader: (15)

Not sure yet about the SD tune vs MAF, still need some more insight on it. What all is involved to change over the MAF to a SD. Thanks.

Update on car.
Motor didn't get shipped last Friday so its going out tomorrow. Got the Turbos and Manifolds all put together and I sent off the sending unit to lonnies and getting all black boost reg, and black fittings going to look SICK.

Just a bunch of cleaning on the car right now. to keep my time and car moving forward. Ok I'm thinking of buying the Eboost2 but who sells the cheapest one and is it hard to install. and what would a shop charge to install it. I'm not the greatest at electric stuff.

52172

iTrader: (2)

Buy the e boost 2 from Jz @ forced inductions they are a sponsor here. They run a little over 400 dollars. Shouldn't cost very much to have it installed.

KWIKKAR

iTrader: (15)

Ok is the 60mm eboost same size as 2 1/16?

KWIKKAR

iTrader: (15)

Ok well guys its been along time since this thread has seen action. but it is soon starting back up. I got the new motor in and put it on the stand last night. I'll have new pictures up this weekend.

Still need to find out what head gaskets to use and find a FAST intake and TB. I think I may buy one, but not sure. If the price is right.

Katech LS2 402 stroker. I want around 9.0-9.5 SCR, pistons have a -12cc dish. Heads are AFR 225 72cc. Hope that helps a little bit.

JMBLOWNWS6

iTrader: (17)

I got the 2 5/8 E boost from matt@new era. I am using felpro gaskets and L19 head studs with my TFS 235 heads.

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

Well going 408 iron I think personally with same afr 225 and think use my gt7 cam but mabye with 1.7 or 1.8 scorpion rockers. Anyone know if those work on the afr heads?
Mine is next spring country I am afraid. No time left to do it now. But be looking to see how your 402 works out it will be fine .Epp has similar combo and look at those results or the APS test mule.
I would not use fast tb use NW or some other one. Fast has a lot of problems unless they are fixed now. I think want around 9.5 to 1.Heard much under can make it pretty doggy off boost. Also think going with 3.73 in my planned dana 60. Lots of very fast cars on boosted list running 3.73.Can't be that bad and will be also good for off boost and help me leave the lights with my current clutch. And its a heavy car can use the extra gear I think.

Keep up the good work guys ,your installs will help me with mine down the road a bit. Still trying to decide if going with APS fuel system or maybe one from Nasty. Heard problems on the vette boards with the aps lines in the bucket failing but think they changed them now. Peter has not been on here too much lately. Not even sure if the aps fuel system is shipping out yet. And heard some problems with Nasty custom tank and filling it up with gas. I guess waiting a bit will let me see what other guys are using for fuel systems.

KWIKKAR

iTrader: (15)

Alright been had it alot the past two days. Got the heads, valvetrain. Motor mounts. Took apart the old motor stuff and getting it ready to be out on the new motor. Some pictures show the old motor with the head studs installed but I sold the studs when I got the new motor. Anyone got a good way to break loose the balancer bolt on the new motor. I've tried just about everything. Break the socket, so I need to get a new one. I also put back on the rear TA cover on the diff that was leaking.

So questions are removal of bolt
And how does my flywheel look, its not that old maybe 1 year, but has alot of hot spots. Is there a way to clean it up. Its a RDS clutch. Enjoy the pictures.

02NBMFormula

iTrader: (6)

try an impact air wrench to get the balancer bolt off.

KWIKKAR

iTrader: (15)

Done that, then the socket broke. I'll try again tomorrow. Its a 15/16 RIGHT?

2 SSlow

iTrader: (26)

24mm....15/16" fits though as well.

02NBMFormula

iTrader: (6)

thats pretty impressive. i think there are some sockets that are specially made for impact guns that are stronger. could also try some breakfree

KnightmareLS1

iTrader: (12)

You definitely need impact sockets. They're a lot thicker and you'll just keep breaking the regular ones most of the time.

Sixspeed02TA

iTrader: (4)

Yea impact sockets are usually black (No Chrome). They are a lot stronger. I've seen people make an adapter plate for the flywheel side of the crank. Rigging it up to accept a crow bar or welding an old nut to it would allow you to hold the crank stationary, then break the pulley bolt loose with a breaker bar. Of course summit sells all this.... but how many times would you actually use it?

2MuchRiceMakesMeSick

nice shop! a lift makes it so much easier

calongo_SS

iTrader: (7)

kent moore makes a fly wheel locking tool that bolts in place of the starter. It isn't cheap though.

KWIKKAR

iTrader: (15)

Ok worked on the car again. FINALLY the Motor and K member are back in the car as one. Bolting up the motor mounts and engine was a task. Damn its a tight fit. Got most of the bolts tight, but still have a LOOOONNGG way to go. Have to run to sears tomorrow and buy some more tools, and then back at it. And of course I forgot the damn camera again.
Will have pictures tomorrow.

KWIKKAR

iTrader: (15)

Ok guys have lots of questions. First one is how in the hell do you tighten the coolant hoses on the turbos once there mounted up in the car???? Use a wrench that is open at the end???? I cut my closed end and I still didn't have enough room to turn it. Second is the passerenside knock sensor in a good spot? Also I'm installing my ASP underdrive pulley. Will that work for FI.??????The first location would not work due to the starter being in the way. And for the people doing the install. INSTALL THE K MEMBER LAST. Damnittttt.!!!!!!!!!!!! first I took the oil pan loose thinking it would give me room to fit the driver turbo in the car. That was a joke. So I had to take the motor mount bolt out which is not easy to get in, in the first place. Hold the engine up and lower the K member about 6 inch to clear the turbo. And tonight I was the only one working on the car. So it made things twice as hard. Tonight I got about half of what I really wanted to get done. Here are alot of pictures from tonight and the other night. Also can you spot the BUD LIGHT IN THE PICTURE. No I didn't drink it all tonight. I wish after the **** my car just put me threw.

calongo_SS

iTrader: (7)

I really didn't have any problems tightening up the water lines. Just used an open ended wrench. And yes, the turbo/manifold assembly will not go in with the k-member bolted in place. Looks like you're making progress, mine has been really slow. I just fired it for the first time a few days ago. Now I'm finishing up the meth kit, then alignment, the exhaust shop, then tuning starts... It feels like it's never gonna be done.