Chhh Chhh

iTrader: (2)

tommorrow i will be puttin my red top below my 860 bottle mount in my trunk (on pass. side) has anyone done this? and is it possible to run just the power wire to the front (+) and ground the negative to something in the trunk? like the frame... i willl also be using 4 gauge if that will work?

any helps or tips/ writeups.

not sure what im going to hold it down with cus most of the mounts they have are only no bottles.

lemons12

iTrader: (71)

i would go with a little thicker wire. but its whatever... yea, you mount the ground in the back and run the other up front.. get a breaker..


search battery relocation

Old Geezer

iTrader: (3)

try a copy of the NHRA rules.
Also: www.madelectrical.com
And, #4 wire may cause excessive voltage drop. Especially, when starting a hot engine.
Using the body for ground, on a unibody, can cause this same problem.

strokerblackhawk

iTrader: (4)

use 0 gauge LMR just put my relocation kit in (BMR kit) and got this pimp wiring setup with protected looms and everything to keep it from shorting out but the wiring kit was like 250 bucks but it's super clean. and i'm not sure a baterry and a bottle will fit in the spare tire compartment unless it's a really small bottle. my battery takes up quite a bit of room

Chhh Chhh

iTrader: (2)

i did it. it works fine with the 4 gauge. also i didnt ever have to ground the black wire that use to tie to the battery in the stock place? why is this?

DOUBT IT

iTrader: (13)

Because if you left the factory ground alone, there is another ground that it's attached to.

I would still step up to 2 ga wire. Might have some problems on cold mornings otherwise.

I've had my battery in the back for a while now with 0 problems on a 2 ga wire. Also, I did upgrade my ground in the front, otherwise you'll get a ground differential that can make the car do weird things. Make the ground in the front AT LEAST as big as your + wire.

I can post pics of my setup if anyone is interested.

Chhh Chhh

iTrader: (2)

yes plz post pics man thanks

bigsticksupra

iTrader: (3)

so does the battery fit underneath the 860 nitrous bottle mount? what kit did you use to hold the battery in place?

DOUBT IT

iTrader: (13)

Actual battery mounting. Don't have pics of the bottle mount sitting behind the battery, but I'll get some today.





Ground in the back. I just enlarged an existing hole, stripped the paint around it, and ran a bolt through.



Fuse in line on the + wire.



Distribution block up front



Ground up front (2ga) and under the bumper where I grounded it to. Got rid of the factory ground all together.



Like I said, I'm doing some things on the car today, and I'll get some pictures of the battery relocation and bottle mount as I'm working on it and post up later.

strokerblackhawk

iTrader: (4)

**** mines down in the hole behind the panel you can't see mine at all looks 100% stock

DOUBT IT

iTrader: (13)

I could have done that, but my battery relocation was done long ago, before I had any intention of putting a bottle back there. I just didn't want to drill any more holes than I had to. I was just throwing out ideas for the OP.

Pictures, as I promised.

2002_Z28_Six_Speed

iTrader: (19)

I have a relocated battery and have been wanted to add a fuse to my main +

So 200 is all you need? I would think it would be more. As a result of this i haven't purchased a fuse yet!

sevanseriesta

iTrader: (34)

Doubtit, This question is for you. Did you run one positive wire up front. If so how do you have it run.... I have a 2ga wire going from the battery to the starter. and then a 6ga wire from the starter, to the fuse boxes. I also have a 4ga wire going from the battery to the Alternator. Will this setup work fine or will it cause problems?

5301113

iTrader: (18)

Why do some cars now come with the battery in the trunk without a killswitch and it legal to race at the track? Example Cobalt, Vette
Nice Pics.

DOUBT IT

iTrader: (13)

I did this:

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...elocation4.jpg

2 ga positive goes into the distribution block, factory starter, alternator, and main fuse box wire go into the block. I wanted something simple, clean, and reliable.

Oh, and 200 amps should be PLENTY. If your starter pulls something more than that and pops the fuse, there's something wrong somewhere. I've been running the fuse for over 2 years now with 0 problems.

1_bad_ss

iTrader: (36)

Will the battery fit under the 860 bracket? I have to find somewhere to mount my battery and I have a 860 bracket and my cage ties into the the spot where doubt it
mounted his battery

60ftkiller

Thank you doubt it, this helped me greatly, I didn't even think of using the distribution block like you did. I am going to do my set up pretty much identical to yours aside from where you have the battery.

DOUBT IT

iTrader: (13)

From what I saw when mounting the bracket, it shouldn't be a problem. It'd be a bitch to get to anything I would think though.

Not a problem. Always glad to be of assistance to fellow LS1Techers.

transambandit

iTrader: (6)

how do you connect it to the alt so it charges?

pddye

iTrader: (14)

He just put all his connections in a distribution block with the single 2 ga running front to back. I was thinking about doing the same this spring after I pull the car out of storage. Afco battery brackets are cheap and wire has really came down in price.