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Small Block & Big Block Chevy Specific Mouse & Rat Motor Discussion & Conversions

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Old 01-29-2010, 03:38 AM   #1
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Default What grit hone for moly rings?

I have a 383 I am putting new rings/bearings in. At the auto parts store I found a course 200grit, medium 400 grit, fine 600 grit stone.

I am just trying to knock the glaze off. What's the best finish for moly rings?

Thanks.

Jason
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Old 01-29-2010, 08:27 AM   #2
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call the ring manufactuere i always used the dingle ball hones any grit will get the job done i'd go with 400 have had no seating issues chrome rings are the only rings that i think require a special ra
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Old 01-29-2010, 08:26 PM   #3
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The Sunnen stones that are recommended for your moly rings are almost the same as a 280 grit stone. It is then a good idea to use a plateau hone of 400 grit to clean any leftover stone debris out of the crosshatching.
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Old 01-29-2010, 08:31 PM   #4
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The Sunnen stones that are recommended for your moly rings are almost the same as a 280 grit stone. It is then a good idea to use a plateau hone of 400 grit to clean any leftover stone debris out of the crosshatching.
After doing some reading tonight I agree with you. I was going to call Hastings today but I was busy in the shop all day.
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Old 01-29-2010, 08:36 PM   #5
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I own my own machine shop, I use this stuff all day. Hope it helps you.
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Old 01-30-2010, 01:17 AM   #6
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Yes it does thank you.
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Old 01-30-2010, 02:19 PM   #7
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I have the hone with three stones that attach to the drill. What do you use for lubricant? I have seen some people use WD40, brake clean, trans fluid. What do you use?
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Old 02-01-2010, 12:38 AM   #8
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I have the hone with three stones that attach to the drill. What do you use for lubricant? I have seen some people use WD40, brake clean, trans fluid. What do you use?
I use a power hone with Sunnen honing oil. Wd40 works ok, but make sure that you have someone there that can keep a steady amount of it on the stones as you are honing on the cylinder. A steady and even pace is also needed when you are moving the stones up & down the cylinder. Do you have a inside mic? What kind of piston's are you useing? Remember to look at the specs for the piston-to-cylinder wall clearance from the manufacture. I would also recommend micing your piston's as well, new or used.
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Old 02-01-2010, 12:47 AM   #9
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I am using keith black pistons. I can get an inside mic.
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Old 02-02-2010, 12:33 AM   #10
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I am using keith black pistons. I can get an inside mic.
Make sure that you keep the piston to cylinder wall clearances exactly as KB tells you to use if they are hyperutectic pistons (you can get away with more clearance if they are forged). The other thing that you need to keep in mind is to make sure to check you piston top ring end gap (file fit or stock replacement) for the KB piston's & do not go by the piston ring manufacture's specs on the top ring. This has caused more blown up engines than you can shake a stick at! As cylinder temp comes up and the piston expands the ring end gaps close up. If not done to KB's top ring end gap specs, the ring ends will hit each other and blow the top of the piston's off 99% of the time. That is why they were nicknamed hyper-explosive's.
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Old 02-02-2010, 12:51 AM   #11
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I have seen a few pics of people that didn't gap the rings right. You are not its not pretty.
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Old 02-02-2010, 12:51 AM
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