F-Body Lover

is it done here? a friend of mine is thinking of going with a turbocharge for his '91 vette it require forged pistons and rods from what I read from other forums and they say the cast crank wont break what other parts is important for making this a successful project? I will run it carburetor and will save the hassle with EFI cost so an electric fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator for carbs is a must and some braidded hose's and fittings,which distributor will it needs will a vacuum advance will work? MSD 6AL-2 and blaster 2 for ignition and what about the heads? I got an old set of Brodix track 1 heads that needs new valve's and valve guide's but they are very old cast are they enough or should I go with new AFR 220s ? I can fabricate headers but which material is recommended for turbo? 1 3/4 or 1 7/8 ? am sure there are alot of things Im missing here I need your advice on this

suicidal racing

iTrader: (14)

first off what is your hp goal and what block are you using?

them track1 heads will work and get you over 1k with no porting..i know someone who ran orsca ez street 4 yrs ago and ran a set of them with porting hsi heads flowed around 310 at 700 on int and went 5.20s at 3500#s with a 88/98.

carb will have to be a blow threw carb or a carb converted to blow threw..use a ev bonnet hat.

ignition you would want the 6al but ad the boost controler to it or just get the program dig 6 that msd has out now along with a billet dizzy

headers depending on turbo you would want 1"5/8s into a 2.5 or 3" pipe to go to the turbo housing..

check out turboforums.com you can get a ton of info.

F-Body Lover

can you please give me links of what you suggest like carb,ev,boost controler or dig 6 and about how many hp well I really dont know what a 355ci forged in factory roller block is capable of I really need help with this project

F-Body Lover

can the 355ci reach 800whp ?

suicidal racing

iTrader: (14)

a 355 can make 2000hp if you stick a 106 or 114 on it..

what size turbo are you looking to run? if around 800 is what you want then look at a s480 which is a 80mm.

i have to go to a family bbq but i can dig around an link you wheni get home later on tonight.

F-Body Lover

please feel free to suggest which parts to go with and compression ratio ,,,etc and enjoy the family gathering my friend

suicidal racing

iTrader: (14)

ok what block are you going to use?

for 800rwhp the brodix heads are fine and will be plenty
get the s400 kit at the bottom
https://turbodaves.com/Borg_Warner.html
ams 500 boost controler

get this for ignition unless you have a lap top
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-6462/
then this is nice
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-6530/

then get a billet dizzy and what ever coil that goes with the box you chose

you can ask over here to
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=20
or www.theturboforums.com

compresion i would be around 9-1..you will need h beam rods,forged pistons and a forged crank..with out getting a forged crank you have a time bomb ticking.

headers go with what i already said for tube sizes

if carb csu an c&s make blow threw carbs
you will need a bonnet hat

camshaft give bullet or cam motion a call and they will spec one out for you.

you will need a fuel system that will support over 1k..i would design one for around 1200hp that way your not living on the edge of your fuel systems max out put 24/7

keeven1320

C&S carbs best in the biz on blow through stuff!

F-Body Lover

very very great info's thanks alot,so should I go with new track 1 heads instead of fully CNC'd AFR 220cc? I found a Scat kit in Summit includes forged pistons and forged I beams but the crank is cast I couldnt find internal balance 355ci 1 peice rear main and I will use a used factory roller engine and yeah will go with CSU 750cfm carb and the hat too,about the fuel system I read in turboforum that I have to use -8 to the regulator,-6 to carb and -10 for return and use aeromotive regulator and a good fuel pump cant remember which one was it

suicidal racing

iTrader: (14)

use your old set of track 1s bro..theres nothing wrong with them..if your that dead set on getting rid of them shot me a price..lol

fuel line all depends on your pump and you can run a -8 or 10 to a reg and then a -8 or 6 to the carb..my carb deal for my **** is -8 from the cell to the carb.

you dont want a cast crank get a forged crank..look into howards cranks..i think they have a kit that will work for you and you want h beams not i's


when you say factory roller is that a lt1 block or reg gen 1 updated version 350 block..sorry im not a vette guy so i dont know when the switch came..but if its a gen1 style then you will end up needing a diff block for them hp levels..dont get me wrong i know of 2 people who push around 1k in them for there race engines but with the work they got into them they could of picked up a used bowtie for 1k.

if its a lt1 you will want to go to billet main caps and if 2 bolt def go to splayed 4's

F-Body Lover

91 vette was the last year of the gen 1 TPI and 92 was the LT1 and no I have the gen 1 but how much hp they can handle? I will look around for short block assembled with d shaped pistons all forged what do you suggest? the track 1's needs new valve's and new valve guide's so do you suggest that I fix them and thats it? they worked fine before I loved them I had E-tec 200 before the track 1's and never liked them so I bought the track 1's put them on the 383 and wow even the sound changed

TT632

iTrader: (3)

Thats pushing it. David Vizard/Mike Thermos pushed one to over 1000 Motor HP in the 80s with a fully prepped gen 1 350 block (Cheaper to go with a Bowtie, Motown or Dart block). The block finally cracked at approx 1050 HP. I had a 355 that was living forever at 600 RWHP or approx 750 engine HP. 800 RWHP is a little beyond what most engine builders would recomend for a stock GM block even with a full prep.

F-Body Lover

what kind of mods to the block will make it handle 800whp zone? splayed caps and what else?

suicidal racing

iTrader: (14)

none for constant abuse you will strip the holes in the bock for the bolts or studs from that much boost,you will be fighting a ton of stuff.


you would need to get the block decked,converted to splayed billet caps if its not a 4blt already if it is then well you would be better off startin with a 2 blt to splay the caps.then you would need line bore done and cylinder bore or atleast hone..then you would need to fill that block making it not street friendly really..all said an done you would have like 1500$ in the block

you can pick up a bowtie block for 800-1000$ now a days that will take that


As for heads get new valves and guides..trust me you will be fine..your building a turbo motor you dont need to stick a 350 flowing sb head on it..its not like your doing a n2o or n/a build where you need a good head to make power..your forcing air into the heads not sucking it in

F-Body Lover

SR yeah if I will buy new valves and guides I will save ALOT for block work or get a short block what does filling a block means?

F-Body Lover

I cant find on shelf single pattern cam ! will this cam work fine? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-08-305-8/

87silverbullet

iTrader: (11)

Why do you want a single pattern cam? If you want something off the shelf go to Comp's website and look at their catalog for their turbo grinds. Also, a carb and a blower hat is not going to fit under the stock hood of a c4 vette.

F-Body Lover

I will put a cowl induction the hood is not a problem to me and I read somewhere that turbo needs single pattern cam ! cant remember where

suicidal racing

iTrader: (14)

call bullet or cam motion and talk to some one they will set you up perfuct for your combo..trust me theres alot that gos into picking out a cam shaft and def alot for a turbo one.

87silverbullet

iTrader: (11)

Yes alot goes into it. The a/r of the exhaust housing, engine size, header primary, intended usage, and theres much more. A single pattern"works" but it is not "optimal" for your setup.

Theres not much space under the hood of a c4 vette so I hope you are a good fabricator. A turbo creates a generous amount of heat so you have to keep it away from most things that will melt and most liquids that will be rendered useless when heated (power steering and brake lines).

Tuning a blow thru setup is going to be challenging also. Unless you are a real good N/A carb tuner, going blow thru will be a hair-puller. I would look at EFI connection for you fuel management needs. Its cheaper that most of the big boys stuff(FAST, BS3, Megasquirt) and it utilizes an ls1 pcm so it can be tuned with hptuners or efilive. It has coil on plug ignition so you can set the timing as need for your set up instead of playing with a distributor.