92 Foxbody SBC Build
#1
92 Foxbody SBC Build
Been meaning to do this build for quite some time, well guess I'll get around to it.
Plan
AJE K-Member/mounts
406 sbc, all motor
DynaTech Headers
lt1 t56
built 8.8 w/ 4.11 (maybe) depends how much gear I want
Next step is removing all non needed wiring/engine bay components that are just taking up space. Will most likely install the k-member and lowers tomorrow. Paint the spindles and clean up the rotors and brakes, baby steps
Plan
AJE K-Member/mounts
406 sbc, all motor
DynaTech Headers
lt1 t56
built 8.8 w/ 4.11 (maybe) depends how much gear I want
Next step is removing all non needed wiring/engine bay components that are just taking up space. Will most likely install the k-member and lowers tomorrow. Paint the spindles and clean up the rotors and brakes, baby steps
#2
Small update. Got all the wiring out of the engine bay that's not needed. Weather felt nice so I decided to tear into the engine a little bit.
Most of my parts will arrive Tuesday. I should be able to make the car a roller, my new blocker rings for the t56 will arrive so I can finally reassemble the transmission, new valves for my heads then off to the machine shop they go, new cam/lifters to make this engine more street able. Hope to have the engine and trans in the car for break in by next weekend.
Most of my parts will arrive Tuesday. I should be able to make the car a roller, my new blocker rings for the t56 will arrive so I can finally reassemble the transmission, new valves for my heads then off to the machine shop they go, new cam/lifters to make this engine more street able. Hope to have the engine and trans in the car for break in by next weekend.
#3
9 Second Club
iTrader: (5)
what heads and cam are you going with? being a dirt track motor, looks like it might of come out of an unlimited what type of pistons are in it? being a street car with a t56, take that 4.10 out and go with a 3.55 or 3.73 gear, i prefer a 3.55 gear
***edit***
I just saw 200 iron eagle, why not the 215? what combustion chamber cc?
***edit***
I just saw 200 iron eagle, why not the 215? what combustion chamber cc?
#4
what heads and cam are you going with? being a dirt track motor, looks like it might of come out of an unlimited what type of pistons are in it? being a street car with a t56, take that 4.10 out and go with a 3.55 or 3.73 gear, i prefer a 3.55 gear
***edit***
I just saw 200 iron eagle, why not the 215? what combustion chamber cc?
***edit***
I just saw 200 iron eagle, why not the 215? what combustion chamber cc?
As for cam, I went with the Pro Comp Xtreme Energy XS282S. Seemed like the best option for me.
http://www.compperformancegroupstore...ry_Code=SMFTXE
I heard some guys run 4.30 with the t56, but I am going to drive it with the 3.08 and go from there. But I have been considering 3.73 or 3.80 (not that you'll notice much of a difference) it's more of a street car than drag car, figured 5th and 6th over drive the 4.10 would be a good choice.
The 215's don't flow that much better than the 200. My goal is more bottom end than top end, and the 200's flow just a little better. Their 72cc combustion so it should put me right at 10.5:1 compression
#6
My next buy will be the lokar throttle cable, then figure out how I want to do my brakes and clutch pedal. I get a nice discount from a buddy with speedway motors so looks like I will buy the dynatech headers for this than try my luck with different headers.
I do have a few questions for you.
Was your car originally an EFI car? Not exactly sure if the 86 and 92 are the same wiring wise, but I completely removed my EEC harness which was for fuel injection, I think the only wiring I have left under the hood is for my lights/horn/wipers. Using http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...onversion.html as a guide there's a few things I need to wire up but shouldn't be hard.
Also your power steering, did you just loop your rack? Considering removing my P/S but would like the comfort of easy turning at rest.
#7
9 Second Club
iTrader: (5)
mine was a TBI 3.8 auto car, I did not use any of the TBI wiring. It was already hacked up when I got the car. (look at the pics with the ford motor in it on my build thread)
On the power steering ..... DO NOT LOOP THE LINES, I DESTROYED A RACK WITHIN A MONTH BY LOOPING THE LINES. Call Summit and tell them what you did (SBC swapped fox Mustang) and you want a power steering pump and lines. Borgeson makes them, thats what I put on mine, supposedly the pump i valved specifically for a mustang rack. Works great
On the power steering ..... DO NOT LOOP THE LINES, I DESTROYED A RACK WITHIN A MONTH BY LOOPING THE LINES. Call Summit and tell them what you did (SBC swapped fox Mustang) and you want a power steering pump and lines. Borgeson makes them, thats what I put on mine, supposedly the pump i valved specifically for a mustang rack. Works great
Trending Topics
#8
I have viewed your thread several times, just couldn't tell what all you did lol
But I actually have the lines/fittings to make my power steering work on the rack (if the pump will work, not sure on the valving you have?), I'll have to figure out which line is the return but that will be as simple as the initial start up when the steering turns to one direction! Then i'll swap the lines the correct way if I don't get it the first try. Good thing I didn't try to loop it
I get a lot of parts tomorrow. Transmission will be built. Heads will be sent off, front suspension will be rolling (forgot to order spring perches) and I will have my new crank bearings installed and hopefully have the cam degreed and installed.
All this waiting for parts and waiting to see what all I need is killing me.
But I actually have the lines/fittings to make my power steering work on the rack (if the pump will work, not sure on the valving you have?), I'll have to figure out which line is the return but that will be as simple as the initial start up when the steering turns to one direction! Then i'll swap the lines the correct way if I don't get it the first try. Good thing I didn't try to loop it
I get a lot of parts tomorrow. Transmission will be built. Heads will be sent off, front suspension will be rolling (forgot to order spring perches) and I will have my new crank bearings installed and hopefully have the cam degreed and installed.
All this waiting for parts and waiting to see what all I need is killing me.
#9
Got the k-member & front suspension installed tonight so it actually rolls around.
Also finished the t56, can't wait to bolt it up behind the chevy.
A good question is, what's the best clutch/throwout setup for a lt1 t56 behind 1st gen sbc? From everything I have read, people say just get a 153 tooth flywheel/clutch assembly and a Ram Hydraulic Throwout Bearing. I really don't want to run that pull type clutch crap. I have read a lot of threads about this swap, but no one seems to give an exact answer or setup to run. Hell, not sure if anyone even sells a kit exactly for this. Maybe I am over looking it
Also finished the t56, can't wait to bolt it up behind the chevy.
A good question is, what's the best clutch/throwout setup for a lt1 t56 behind 1st gen sbc? From everything I have read, people say just get a 153 tooth flywheel/clutch assembly and a Ram Hydraulic Throwout Bearing. I really don't want to run that pull type clutch crap. I have read a lot of threads about this swap, but no one seems to give an exact answer or setup to run. Hell, not sure if anyone even sells a kit exactly for this. Maybe I am over looking it
#11
Everything I needed to get this thing running is in the shop waiting for installation. Been snowing like crazy (for texas) and haven't felt like firing up the heaters in the shop.
But the motor, trans and driveshaft are in place. Need to run my trans cooler lines, add the starter and passenger side header, drop in the radiator and it's time to fire it up. I also am relocating the battery to the rear hatch. Being a gel type battery I don't have to worry about fumes in the cabin so this will add a little more weight to the rear.
I will post a few photos here in a little bit
But the motor, trans and driveshaft are in place. Need to run my trans cooler lines, add the starter and passenger side header, drop in the radiator and it's time to fire it up. I also am relocating the battery to the rear hatch. Being a gel type battery I don't have to worry about fumes in the cabin so this will add a little more weight to the rear.
I will post a few photos here in a little bit
#13
Thanks! It will be awesome ones it's done (are cars ever done??)
Motor is a monster, can't wait to crank it up with the new setup. Lowered the compression from 14:1 to 10.5:1 and swapped cams, that's all I changed so should be interesting to see dyno numbers.
I have been slacking on this. Guy owes me money, and not a little bit, i've been relying on his word to get this car streetable. Hopefully something happens here quick
Motor is a monster, can't wait to crank it up with the new setup. Lowered the compression from 14:1 to 10.5:1 and swapped cams, that's all I changed so should be interesting to see dyno numbers.
I have been slacking on this. Guy owes me money, and not a little bit, i've been relying on his word to get this car streetable. Hopefully something happens here quick
#15
Weather has been pretty shitty the past week or so but I got the car running and damn does it sound good.
Decided the cam was broke in enough to put my inner valve springs in, so I pulled the plugs and started installing springs and checking for any valve leaks. Seems cylinder #4 has a head gasket leak letting compression into the cooling system, I can hear it bubble with the radiator cap removed. Looks like I'm going to get a few more heat cycles on these heads do a proper valve job and put some new head gaskets on. Considering jumping from 10.3:1 compression to 10.7:1, or maybe just keep it 10.3 and add some nitrous later on
Decided the cam was broke in enough to put my inner valve springs in, so I pulled the plugs and started installing springs and checking for any valve leaks. Seems cylinder #4 has a head gasket leak letting compression into the cooling system, I can hear it bubble with the radiator cap removed. Looks like I'm going to get a few more heat cycles on these heads do a proper valve job and put some new head gaskets on. Considering jumping from 10.3:1 compression to 10.7:1, or maybe just keep it 10.3 and add some nitrous later on
#16
Got the car running on Sunday just to blow a trans cooler line. Shut the car off the instant I seen smoke, seems to only have leaked out a few courts so I think i'm good. Ended up with a a full 3" exhaust with an X-pipe and Dynomax mufflers. This car is quiet, very quiet, and screams under throttle.
I really underestimated the power on this car. Good thing I have crappy tread rear tires,or I would be ripping off the torque boxes and twisting this car in half. This is a lot more power than I could imagine in a street car.
Needless to say this car makes some serious power. With 3.08 gears 3rd gear is almost useless, so I won't be going with 3.73s and will most likely keep the current ratio.
This next paycheck I will be getting some sub frame connectors, torque box reinforcements and a few other suspension things to get this thing tracking straight.
I really underestimated the power on this car. Good thing I have crappy tread rear tires,or I would be ripping off the torque boxes and twisting this car in half. This is a lot more power than I could imagine in a street car.
Needless to say this car makes some serious power. With 3.08 gears 3rd gear is almost useless, so I won't be going with 3.73s and will most likely keep the current ratio.
This next paycheck I will be getting some sub frame connectors, torque box reinforcements and a few other suspension things to get this thing tracking straight.