budget build 350 w/ nitrous!
07-07-2015, 07:41 AM
#42
the 6al is a better box but it still lacks the timing controls. you need timing controls neither the street fire nor the 6al provide those controls. that is why i say the digital 6.
say you run a 150 hp shot. by the nitrous rule of thumb (2 deg for every 50 hp) that is 6 degrees of retard you have to run. say your full advance is 34 degrees, when spraying nitrous you will have to knock it back to 28 degrees. with the 2 boxes (streetfire and 6al) you stated this is not possible so you will have to run 28 degrees all the time and it will run and drive like ****. with the box i stated (digital 6) you can run at full timing and when you spray you can have 6 degrees pulled out through the box. that is why i say run this box not the others. send that street fire junk back and get a billet msd billet dist, digital 6, blaster 2 coil and 8.5mm msd wires.
****Note****
I dont care if its a budget setup, on a nitrous application ign is not where you skimp, you dont have to buy the baddest out stuff out there, but you do have to buy the correct components for your application
http://www.jegs.com/i/MSD+Ignition/121/6520K/10002/-1
Here is my car, i did run a 6al in the past with 2 extra timing control boxes and those failed. the digital 6 simplified it all down to just 1 box, it did everything
say you run a 150 hp shot. by the nitrous rule of thumb (2 deg for every 50 hp) that is 6 degrees of retard you have to run. say your full advance is 34 degrees, when spraying nitrous you will have to knock it back to 28 degrees. with the 2 boxes (streetfire and 6al) you stated this is not possible so you will have to run 28 degrees all the time and it will run and drive like ****. with the box i stated (digital 6) you can run at full timing and when you spray you can have 6 degrees pulled out through the box. that is why i say run this box not the others. send that street fire junk back and get a billet msd billet dist, digital 6, blaster 2 coil and 8.5mm msd wires.
****Note****
I dont care if its a budget setup, on a nitrous application ign is not where you skimp, you dont have to buy the baddest out stuff out there, but you do have to buy the correct components for your application
http://www.jegs.com/i/MSD+Ignition/121/6520K/10002/-1
Here is my car, i did run a 6al in the past with 2 extra timing control boxes and those failed. the digital 6 simplified it all down to just 1 box, it did everything
Last edited by v8sten; 07-07-2015 at 07:52 AM.
07-08-2015, 08:36 PM
#43
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2013
Location: York, PA
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
thanks buddy for all the knowledge, I cant just run the digital 6 with my distributor and coil I have? also whats the difference between the digital 6, 6A, and 6AL? So everytime I want to run nitrous I need to adjust the timing on the box to pull timing? obviously im not going to right off the start go with the biggest shot I can, but what's the biggest shot im gonna want to run on this motor? also how much of a difference is say 150 -250 shot gonna be in the 1/4?
07-08-2015, 08:42 PM
#45
I ran the 6al with the msd timing retard box. Worked great, just twist the **** in the car to pull timing prior to spraying, or for starting. Then put the advance back in it when running around on motor.
Patrick at Pro Systems make a real nice carb as I've owned one of his dominators. In your application though you'd probably in a better financial spot using a Holley hp or maybe a quick fuel. The extra money he charges is not worth it at this level IMO.
Patrick at Pro Systems make a real nice carb as I've owned one of his dominators. In your application though you'd probably in a better financial spot using a Holley hp or maybe a quick fuel. The extra money he charges is not worth it at this level IMO.
07-08-2015, 08:56 PM
#46
thanks buddy for all the knowledge, I cant just run the digital 6 with my distributor and coil I have? also whats the difference between the digital 6, 6A, and 6AL? So everytime I want to run nitrous I need to adjust the timing on the box to pull timing? obviously im not going to right off the start go with the biggest shot I can, but what's the biggest shot im gonna want to run on this motor? also how much of a difference is say 150 -250 shot gonna be in the 1/4?
6a - just an ign box with no timing controls or rev limiter of any kind
6al - same as a 6a with a single rev limiter
digital 6 - more output than both the previous boxes, 2-step, rev limiter, up to 10 degrees of retard ability
with the 6al you will have to run multiple boxes to have the same abilities as the digital 6. with all of those boxes added up it will cost more than just buying the digital 6. with the D6 you will not have to adjust the timing every time it will go to the preset amount of retard that you have dialed in the box when you spray nitrous. with the 6a or 6al (unless you have the other timing control boxes installed) you will have to run the car at the retarded timing all the time, or adjust the timing once you plan on spraying. i feel that i have said this before. just return the streetfire and get what i posted you will thank me later. or dont and i will say I told you so later on
I ran the 6al with the msd timing retard box. Worked great, just twist the **** in the car to pull timing prior to spraying, or for starting. Then put the advance back in it when running around on motor.
Patrick at Pro Systems make a real nice carb as I've owned one of his dominators. In your application though you'd probably in a better financial spot using a Holley hp or maybe a quick fuel. The extra money he charges is not worth it at this level IMO.
Patrick at Pro Systems make a real nice carb as I've owned one of his dominators. In your application though you'd probably in a better financial spot using a Holley hp or maybe a quick fuel. The extra money he charges is not worth it at this level IMO.
Last edited by v8sten; 07-08-2015 at 09:05 PM.
07-08-2015, 09:22 PM
#47
i explained the differences in the boxes in my earlier post the Digital 6 has everything you need in 1 box. I personally havent run nor will ever run anything steetfire related. yes its a MSD product but its a cheap outsourced china product, i would not trust any of it with nitrous.
6a - just an ign box with no timing controls or rev limiter of any kind
6al - same as a 6a with a single rev limiter
digital 6 - more output than both the previous boxes, 2-step, rev limiter, up to 10 degrees of retard ability
with the 6al you will have to run multiple boxes to have the same abilities as the digital 6. with all of those boxes added up it will cost more than just buying the digital 6. with the D6 you will not have to adjust the timing every time it will go to the preset amount of retard that you have dialed in the box when you spray nitrous. with the 6a or 6al (unless you have the other timing control boxes installed) you will have to run the car at the retarded timing all the time, or adjust the timing once you plan on spraying. i feel that i have said this before. just return the streetfire and get what i posted you will thank me later. or dont and i will say I told you so later on
I ran all of those boxes too, the Digital 6 was far better than all of this crap
6a - just an ign box with no timing controls or rev limiter of any kind
6al - same as a 6a with a single rev limiter
digital 6 - more output than both the previous boxes, 2-step, rev limiter, up to 10 degrees of retard ability
with the 6al you will have to run multiple boxes to have the same abilities as the digital 6. with all of those boxes added up it will cost more than just buying the digital 6. with the D6 you will not have to adjust the timing every time it will go to the preset amount of retard that you have dialed in the box when you spray nitrous. with the 6a or 6al (unless you have the other timing control boxes installed) you will have to run the car at the retarded timing all the time, or adjust the timing once you plan on spraying. i feel that i have said this before. just return the streetfire and get what i posted you will thank me later. or dont and i will say I told you so later on
I ran all of those boxes too, the Digital 6 was far better than all of this crap
Think budget Don. The guy may not be as able financially to do it all at once. I agree if you can afford it, do it. Does it have to have it to run, probably not.
07-11-2015, 08:31 PM
#48
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2013
Location: York, PA
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for all the great information guys, im sorry if I made you repeat anything. i was a diesel technician so a lot of this is new to me. i will be looking into getting a digital 6, im gonna start focusing on getting the bottom end done for now and get the other stuff when it comes that time, im getting parts laying around that i cant do anything with until the motor gets the machine work done. i also thought about going another route other then the pro systems carb although i would like to make the most out of this motor, this motor is not going to be the long term motor. so pro systems just does not seem like the best financial choice. Since im trying to get the bottom end done, which companies should i start talking to about getting a custom nitrous cam made since i have decided on a set of heads i want? also what oil pump should i run? or is there any i should stay away from when im looking for one? i really appreciate all the great information. V8sten what the best et you ran with you 383 also what was the weight of the vehicle? also any advice on fuel pumps? right now i just have a mechanical 140 gph pump on it, will that be enough for what im looking for?
07-12-2015, 05:17 PM
#49
Thanks for all the great information guys, im sorry if I made you repeat anything. i was a diesel technician so a lot of this is new to me. i will be looking into getting a digital 6, im gonna start focusing on getting the bottom end done for now and get the other stuff when it comes that time, im getting parts laying around that i cant do anything with until the motor gets the machine work done. i also thought about going another route other then the pro systems carb although i would like to make the most out of this motor, this motor is not going to be the long term motor. so pro systems just does not seem like the best financial choice. Since im trying to get the bottom end done, which companies should i start talking to about getting a custom nitrous cam made since i have decided on a set of heads i want? also what oil pump should i run? or is there any i should stay away from when im looking for one? i really appreciate all the great information. V8sten what the best et you ran with you 383 also what was the weight of the vehicle? also any advice on fuel pumps? right now i just have a mechanical 140 gph pump on it, will that be enough for what im looking for?
**** Disclaimer ****
Both my S10 and Mustang were not built to run the 1/4. the S10 had a top end speed of 195 mph and the mustang was a limited (aerodynamics) 160 mph. I built them to be good at everything, not great at 1 thing
Here is a video proving that i actually drive my hotrods
07-18-2015, 03:07 PM
#50
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2013
Location: York, PA
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
awesome video v8sten, exactly what im trying to accomplish here. I don't want a trailer queen. how much nitrous were your spraying to get it into the 9's? also I have a friend that will make me a good deal on a preform 750 race series carb, will that work and be streetable or should I be looking more towards the street series carb?
07-19-2015, 11:21 PM
#51
Do not run a vacuum secondary carb at all, unless you like seeing a big fire ball come out of your hood. Proform carbs are hit or miss, some work and some dont work very well at all. that was a 250 hp cheater nos kit in that video. It was a low 11 second on motor. I built my motor with left over parts that didnt match up and i beat the hell out of it for a good 7 years until i had a fatigued valve break off.
07-21-2015, 03:49 PM
#52
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2013
Location: York, PA
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
that is awesome, you must have some good luck especially if there missed matched parts and handle that much nitrous. very impressive, and great build and story. thanks for all the great advice. when it comes time for a carb I think i'm just going to go buy a new carb just so I don't get someone elses head ache, what carb should I get that's a good carb spending no more then $500?
07-21-2015, 06:34 PM
#53
Make sure it has a "LIST 4779-?" on the choke tower. buy a rebuild kit and jet extension w/ a float, and there you go, you got a carb
http://harrisburg.craigslist.org/pts/5117577162.html
http://harrisburg.craigslist.org/pts/5117577162.html
07-26-2015, 01:32 AM
#55
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2013
Location: York, PA
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
dude you are awesome! I will try to contact both of them in the morning, and I work in Maryland so no need for shipping. also should I get rid of the distributor I have and get a better one to run with the digital 6? I haven't installed it since I was going to get rid of it, so the ignition system I bought is still new in box.
08-30-2015, 06:18 PM
#56
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2013
Location: York, PA
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i have been looking for a 383 stroker kit with a nodular crank and H beam rods, im not having any luck. if I find a kit with a nodular crank it always has I-beam rods, and if I find a kit with H-beam rods it comes with a cast crank. anybody have any advice as to where I can find the kit im looking for? also whats the big benefit with having H-beam rods over I-beams? just strength? also is there anything in these kits that will help the motor rev faster? with my work schedule being so crazy right now im about to get the motor pulled out and stripped so it can get to the machine shop but I need to find a stroker kit so I can get this motor done ill have the motor out this week and the body off the frame, so im trying to get this car going since ill have so time before I go back out of state for work again.
09-02-2015, 06:50 PM
#59
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2013
Location: York, PA
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
correct me if im wrong but I thought I found a kit with 4.00 rods? im looking at ohio crankshaft again what is a s&s bushed rod? there a little more then I really wanted to spend I was trying to keep the rotating assembly hopefully under $1000. also any recommendations on who I should get or talk to about a cam if custom who should I go through? with the setup we have been talking about with heads, intake, carb is there anyway I can get this setup to 550hp before spray? or am I shooting to high with this?
09-05-2015, 12:47 AM
#60
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2013
Location: York, PA
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
is there anything wrong with this kit?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SBC-383-CHEVY-4340-FORGED-2PC-RMS-ROTATING-ASSY-4-040-BORE-MAHLE-PISTONS-H-BEAM-/191093611117?hash=item2c7e111a6d
if the kit from ohio crankshafts is really that superior I will just end up spending the money but anywhere I can save a little money and still get a good reliable motor im going to try.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SBC-383-CHEVY-4340-FORGED-2PC-RMS-ROTATING-ASSY-4-040-BORE-MAHLE-PISTONS-H-BEAM-/191093611117?hash=item2c7e111a6d
if the kit from ohio crankshafts is really that superior I will just end up spending the money but anywhere I can save a little money and still get a good reliable motor im going to try.